Installing Myself - Need Some Help Please

[jkmola]

So after doing lots of research and measuring, I've decided on a Clydesdale insert. It's not tops in all of the important to me categories, but it came the closest to having the things I wanted most. I ordered it today, and I should be picking it up in 7-10 days. Meantime, I need to tackle my chimney.

The pictures below are of my damper. Sorry about the quality, it's dark up there. The width of the damper is 6". I'm gonna go ahead and assume that I need more clearance than that for a 6" liner. So the first issue is, is it better to make room for a 6" liner, or will a piece of 5.5" be ok, then transition to 6" right above the damper area?

If the answer turns out to be make clearance for the 6", it looks like I could possibly do it by just removing the two middle blocks. I'm not real sure how to do that. Hammer and chisel? What's the best way to go about this?

(broken image removed)


In either case, the damper will have to come out. Is this just cut out - or is there a "proper" way to remove it?

FYI - I am planning to insulate the walls (external chimney), and install a block off plate. I appreciate any pointers I can get here. Thanks.

 

[DougA]

Pictures weren't added - at least not that I can see.
OK, good now

 

[cableman]

6" insulated liner for sure if thats what the stove calls for and your chimney can fit it. I just installed a friends, cut the damper hinge out then cut the middle part out to about 8". Top Middle back brick on his just pulled out for better clearance. Heres a link if it helps any!
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/helping-a-buddy-choose-an-insert.118123/page-2#post-1808597

 

[jkmola]

Just read the thread. Thanks. One thing about mine that appears to be different - your liner seems to be a straight vertical shot down. My back wall where the damper is tapers inward, and is on about a 45 degree slant. Apparently I'll need some type of flex, or some elbows?

 

[cableman]

His came down on the left but i was able to get it to the center by the time it hit the block off plate. 12x12 flue made it easier. You may need an angled adaptor to go on the stove then the liner into that

 

[EatenByLimestone]

How tall is your chimney?

 

[jkmola]

Can't answer exactly - weather has been terrible. Snow and high wind. Haven't been able to measure that, the flue size, or look down the flue. Two story house. I'm guessing 25 - 30 ft.

 

[jkmola]

Just noticed you were from NY. I shouldn't be complaining about the weather. Lol

 

[bholler]

use flex for the whole thing That is the standard way to do it and if you use heavy wall there is really no benefit to rigid over flex. And yes cut the damper frame and remove a brick or 2 with hammer and chisel

 

[EatenByLimestone]

You may be ok with 5.5" in a 25+ft chimney. A couple of us have 5.5" insulated liners in tall chimneys with other stoves. I know nothing about your insert though. You're still going to need to cut that damper out. The liners tend to get stuck on every ridge and bump they can. Have a person on top and bottom. I rented a lift for mine and haven't regretted it.

Weather here has been fine. A little cool, but I don't have more than a few spots with a light dusting of snow.

 

[rwhite]

From the looks of the damper your installation is similar to mine. First off, the materials. Use flex liner for the entire run. I used 1/2" insulation as well with the woven sleeve covering it all. Even though the opening may be 6" the angle won't be right. Remove the damper and possible the first or second run of bricks. I just used a sawzall to cut the hinge pins on each side of the damper and took the whole thing out. Once you have the damper out and the bricks removed the clean the living heck out of the chimney taking care to vacuum behind the smoke shelf. Then it's just a matter of dropping the liner down and connecting to the stove with an appliance adapter. Then fabricate the block off plate. From there just clean up the mess and enjoy. Make sure you adhere to all clearances required. It was an all day job but I did it by myself.

 

[mstoelton]

You really need to go with a 6 inch insulated flex liner. I installed both of mine myself. to remove the damper the best tool is a 41/2inch angle grinder with a cut=off wheel (harbor freight ~$25 for the angle grinder and a pack of wheels.

Once the damper and frame are removed you can drop your flex liner down. Once flex liner is in make a block off plate following the instructions on this site.

Don't cut the liner at the top until you have the stove in place and the liner connected with the block-off plate in place. Finishing the top plate and trimming any excess at the top of the chimney should be the last thing you do. Make sure that you seal around the block-off plate with furnace cement and at the top plate/chimney connection with silicone. This will create a dead air space in your chimney and ensure your Clyde performs well.

Clydes are great, I have two!

 

[jkmola]

Thanks for tips. Now I just need to order the liner. Either one of these kits ok to use?

http://www.chimneylinerdepot.com/store/5184/product/Flex-King-HD-Chimney-Liner-6X30-Insert-Kit.html
(broken link removed to http://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/chimney-liner-kit.php)

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Both are well known. I used chimney liner depot and have been happy with it.

Are you going to insulate the liner?

 

[jkmola]

Yes. Insulate liner, insulate inside the fireplace, block off plate with insulation above. That's the plan.