Installing pellet stove problems

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Stoveproblems

New Member
Jan 25, 2016
3
Caliente, CA
I could really use some advice.

I moved into a trailer home a year and a half ago. It came with a gas stove (was running on propane). Anyways, it didn't warm the house very well and burned through propane like no other. I had a pellet stove growing up and it warmed our home no problem.

So I bought a pellet stove. During the installation we realized that the chimney vent is actually for wood, and the previous owner just screwed his gas vent pipes onto the chimney.
We wonder since it's a wood burning chimney could we save some money and not tear it out and instead attach our pellet installation to it. The biggest issue is that the chimney is a 6" and has a smooth wall, unlike the pellet piping which is 3" and has Interlocking pieces.
Anyways, could I get some opinions and ideas please.
 
I could really use some advice.

I moved into a trailer home a year and a half ago. It came with a gas stove (was running on propane). Anyways, it didn't warm the house very well and burned through propane like no other. I had a pellet stove growing up and it warmed our home no problem.

So I bought a pellet stove. During the installation we realized that the chimney vent is actually for wood, and the previous owner just screwed his gas vent pipes onto the chimney.
We wonder since it's a wood burning chimney could we save some money and not tear it out and instead attach our pellet installation to it. The biggest issue is that the chimney is a 6" and has a smooth wall, unlike the pellet piping which is 3" and has Interlocking pieces.
Anyways, could I get some opinions and ideas please.

NO! Please don't try that. Get the proper pellet pipe. These pellet venting pipes aren't just made to sell you something else, they are a safety issue that will not be addressed with regular wood stove exhaust pipe.
 
NO! Please don't try that. Get the proper pellet pipe. These pellet venting pipes aren't just made to sell you something else, they are a safety issue that will not be addressed with regular wood stove exhaust pipe.

I dont want to step on any toes here but.... is the chimney going thru the roof? Is it class A chimney double wall pipe? If so, i do not see any reason why not. Pellet stoves are vented into the wood stove chimneys constantly here with the proper pellet stove chimney adapter when they replace a wood burning stove with a pellet stove.
If i am wrong then thats fine, but what am i missing?
 
I dont want to step on any toes here but.... is the chimney going thru the roof? Is it class A chimney double wall pipe? If so, i do not see any reason why not. Pellet stoves are vented into the wood stove chimneys constantly here with the proper pellet stove chimney adapter when they replace a wood burning stove with a pellet stove.
If i am wrong then thats fine, but what am i missing?

I'm reading it that it is a 6" single wall, if not then it's a different story. I guess that being in a trailer I haven't seen a lot of regular chimneys installed, mostly just the 6" pipe type exhausts. After re-reading it does say a chimney so I might have been wrong.
 
I'm reading it that it is a 6" single wall, if not then it's a different story. I guess that being in a trailer I haven't seen a lot of regular chimneys installed, mostly just the 6" pipe type exhausts. After re-reading it does say a chimney so I might have been wrong.

I agree not to if its been half assed and cobbled with single wall pipe.. but if it actual class a 6" there shouldnt be a problem as long as they use the proper adapter.
 
Now with looking at your profile pic.... you should have put that in your post btw.. be absolutely certain it is class a (wood burning) and instead of going straight up and then 90 degree foreward and then up like it looks as you are proposing... install the proper adapter to the 6 inch and then a 45 degree elbow, then enough straight section to get behind the stove. Then another 45 degree elbow going down to the cleanout T. You may need an adjustable section to make it fit right but the 45's are prefered over 90's.

Pete, take a look at her profile pic and make any corrections you see needed please.
 
I dont want to step on any toes here but.... is the chimney going thru the roof? Is it class A chimney double wall pipe? If so, i do not see any reason why not. Pellet stoves are vented into the wood stove chimneys constantly here with the proper pellet stove chimney adapter when they replace a wood burning stove with a pellet stove.
If i am wrong then thats fine, but what am i missing?

It is through the roof.
I don't know if it's class A.
It is a double walled chimney though.
By chimney adapter, you mean the inside attachment to the ceiling?
 
I agree not to if its been half assed and cobbled with single wall pipe.. but if it actual class a 6" there shouldnt be a problem as long as they use the proper adapter.

When I said it was a smooth wall, i was referring that it didn't have any interlocking parts like our other pieces. This chimney adapter is an 8 to 6" adapter. So we went to the store and found the only a to 3" adapter that had the same interlocking part on one end and smooth on the other. When we got home I couldn't believe that we had, by chance, the ONLY adapter in the store, we had found the actual correct part that goes with the chimney.
Insane. This project has been hair pulling.

You said that a 45 would be better than a 90. Is that because of soot buildup?
 
45's are recommened for many reasons. But mostly because with the 3- 90 degree elbows will restrict the exhaust and the stove may or may not run properly. Along with much more ash buildup. Have you read the manual for the stove in regard to evl recommendation? Those 3-90s will actually exceed the recomendations alone.
 
45's are recommened for many reasons. But mostly because with the 3- 90 degree elbows will restrict the exhaust and the stove may or may not run properly. Along with much more ash buildup. Have you read the manual for the stove in regard to evl recommendation? Those 3-90s will actually exceed the recomendations alone.

If you own that trailer or if the owner would allow, it would probably be cheaper to punch another hole directly above the stove, run the pipe straight up into a proper 3" selkirk/pelvent, what ever brand name. Remove the other one in the summer and patch it up. This way only one 90* needed and the stove will probably run better.
 
Now, again don't want to step on toes.

If your stove is ob an outside wall ????

IF you own the house (You and the bank)

And if the stove is rated for a direct vent.
Install a direct vent through the wall and keep the run short.
Add on a nice vent hood (Usually a 45 slant unit that attaches to the vent the same as the other pipes connect.

FAR easier to clean.

Simply remove the vent hood, stuff a leaf blower (suction side) to the vent and (With stove door open) let it rip.

JUST SAYIN
Just looking at your piccy
You should be able to direct vent that thing in an hour or so with minimal fuss and $$$$$
 
Now, again don't want to step on toes.

If your stove is ob an outside wall ????

IF you own the house (You and the bank)

And if the stove is rated for a direct vent.
Install a direct vent through the wall and keep the run short.
Add on a nice vent hood (Usually a 45 slant unit that attaches to the vent the same as the other pipes connect.

FAR easier to clean.

Simply remove the vent hood, stuff a leaf blower (suction side) to the vent and (With stove door open) let it rip.

JUST SAYIN
Just looking at your piccy
You should be able to direct vent that thing in an hour or so with minimal fuss and $$$$$


Yup, easier and cheaper all the way around.
 
Don't forget that more than likely, being a mobile home, you will be required to have an Outside Air Kit installed too - check your install manual and state/town requirements. Which may help you decide whether to go the direct vent (or at least to outside wall) or try to use the existing pipe.
 
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