Insulating a split faced block home?

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3650

Minister of Fire
May 8, 2011
934
midwest
Anyone have experience. Its 112yo split faced block. Firring strips fastened to the block with plaster lathe on them. There is about a half inch gap betwixt the plaster lathe and the block. I was just going to stud walls out over the plaster walls but I'm worried about mold developing due to lack of ventilation. I'm beginning to think I can't insulate.
 
Hope you find the answers you need ... moved your thread to the appropriate section!
 
Anyone have experience. Its 112yo split faced block. Firring strips fastened to the block with plaster lathe on them. There is about a half inch gap betwixt the plaster lathe and the block. I was just going to stud walls out over the plaster walls but I'm worried about mold developing due to lack of ventilation. I'm beginning to think I can't insulate.

Basement or above ground level?
 
I have a basement but my whole house is block. The walls aren't insulated and I was wanting to do that but the more I read the more I find its not a good idea. The general consensus is to just seal up the air leaks and enjoy my tomb.....lol. Take note young home buyers ......I was young when I bought the place and have many regrets about it. Do as much research as you can.
 
Have you had water intrusion problems? Don't know if you found this website... (broken link removed)
 
That was the plan but from what I've been reading if i do the block will not be warm enough to dry out causing it to deteriorate.
 
That was the plan but from what I've been reading if i do the block will not be warm enough to dry out causing it to deteriorate.


What do they say is the time frame on this deterioration? I see a lot of foundations, barns, and garages made of block that haven't been heated in years doing just fine. Now, if water was pooling inside without drainage I could see where there might be issues...
 
In my opinion the best solution but also a real pain it to insulate the outside of the block which would give you the advantage of the thermal mass of that block inside the conditioned envelope of the house
 
I dont recall a time frame. Insulating the outside would lower my taxes because I could put siding on it. For some reason a block house is taxed about $500 more annually then a stick frame house the same size....according to the tax man I was arguing with. They, unfortunately recommend against that as well for reasons i can't recall.

Most of the info I got was from the link Lake Girl posted or links off from it. I actually had read that before she posted. Apologies for not saying so and thank you for the link.
 
That is how we insulated our shop and it works very well with no problems yet in 15 years. I am curious what the problems could be
 
I think it was moisture/mold issues. I'll have to re-read. Well its encouraging to hear you've had success. How did you do the insulation?
 
2" of rigid foam then stringers then siding
 
That is how we insulated our shop and it works very well with no problems yet in 15 years. I am curious what the problems could be
Some might argue that there is still a thermal path to ground thru the masonry, but this argument ignores the reality that masonry is not an excellent conductor, and the cross section to ground is small compared to distance. Insulating outside, if it could be done, might be a good way to go... in theory.

In practicality, it seems it's usually easier to insulate inside. Then you just have to be sure that you're isolating the cold masonry from your humid indoor air mass. Spray foam is ideal, in this application, although foam board with taped seams is usually used with success. My last house was insulated in that way, ca.1990, and no troubles as of 2011 when I sold it.
 
Some might argue that there is still a thermal path to ground thru the masonry, but this argument ignores the reality that masonry is not an excellent conductor, and the cross section to ground is small compared to distance. Insulating outside, if it could be done, might be a good way to go... in theory.
Foam under the slab and down to the footers on the outside of the walls so the footers are the only spot for heat transfer
 
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