Insulating fire bricks

[Hoytman]

Can anyone share information on what they know about fire bricks?

I know there are differences like high density bricks like those sold at TSC and I imagine are US Steel bricks. There are also pumice bricks and more. There are advantages and disadvantaged.

I’ve got 3 stoves and all are different. I have a Lopi Liberty with high density bricks from Lopi...and some need replacing. Will likely replace them all because I’m restoring the stove...which isn’t going to take much.

I have a Hitzer 354 coal/wood stove that has some high density bricks in it as well as two special long bricks in it under the door. Don’t recall the measurements right now, but standard thickness.

I have an old Solarwood pre-EPA stove that has what appears to be 2-2 1/2” thick bricks in it.

I was thinking of looking into some ceramic high insulating bricks of some sorts. Was wondering how much it would change the characteristics of the burn, if any.

 

[PaulOinMA]

The bricks at my local Lowe's looked and felt like the bricks in my Lopi. Will take a brick there to confirm when I need to replace bricks. Looks like others have done the same, judging by the dirty bricks I saw in Lowe's.

 

[bholler]

Can anyone share information on what they know about fire bricks?

I know there are differences like high density bricks like those sold at TSC and I imagine are US Steel bricks. There are also pumice bricks and more. There are advantages and disadvantaged.

I’ve got 3 stoves and all are different. I have a Lopi Liberty with high density bricks from Lopi...and some need replacing. Will likely replace them all because I’m restoring the stove...which isn’t going to take much.

I have a Hitzer 354 coal/wood stove that has some high density bricks in it as well as two special long bricks in it under the door. Don’t recall the measurements right now, but standard thickness.

I have an old Solarwood pre-EPA stove that has what appears to be 2-2 1/2” thick bricks in it.

I was thinking of looking into some ceramic high insulating bricks of some sorts. Was wondering how much it would change the characteristics of the burn, if any.

There really are only 2 basic types of firebricks. The standard heavy clay brick with little insulating value. And the low density pumice ones with much higher r value.

They all come in different sizes but in general I would avoid a stove that uses a non standard size. They can be quite expensive.

When it comes to standard hard firebrick there are several different heat ratings. The hardware store ones are usually the lowest.

 

[Hoytman]

I guess there’s soapstone to consider as well.

 

[Highbeam]

I plan to stick with what the manufacturer used to maintain the ul listing, epa certification, and safety of the original design. Aftermarket brands of the same style brick would be fine. When your house burns down you don’t want the insurance guy to blame the non factory brick choice!

 

[marty319]

I plan to stick with what the manufacturer used to maintain the ul listing, epa certification, and safety of the original design. Aftermarket brands of the same style brick would be fine. When your house burns down you don’t want the insurance guy to blame the non factory brick choice!

Aftermarket bricks have nothing to do with fire code.asked my brother about this as he is an insurance broker.

 

[bholler]

Aftermarket bricks have nothing to do with fire code.asked my brother about this as he is an insurance broker.

It absolutely does. The stove is a ul listed appliance because of that it needs to be kept in the form it was tested as. If you change the type of bricks it is no longer as tested and technically voids the listing.

Now does it really make that much difference? I don't know but probably not. Will anyone catch it in the event of a claim? Probably not but why take the chance?

I deal with insurance brokers and agents all the time. I then also deal with insurance adjusters. The brokers and agents are salesmen they very rarely know anything about code and often give inaccurate info. The adjusters are the ones who know and are the ones who check things out in the event of a claim. Many times if they see something they are not sure of they will call in a sweep like me to do an inspection. And I will find anything wrong. They then make the determination as to whether that is grounds to deny a claim. It usually isn't but like I said before why take the chance.

 

[Highbeam]

Aftermarket bricks have nothing to do with fire code.asked my brother about this as he is an insurance broker.

Aftermarket is fine like I said and your brother agrees. What is not fine is aftermarket bricks of a different type.

 

[marty319]

It absolutely does. The stove is a ul listed appliance because of that it needs to be kept in the form it was tested as. If you change the type of bricks it is no longer as tested and technically voids the listing.

Now does it really make that much difference? I don't know but probably not. Will anyone catch it in the event of a claim? Probably not but why take the chance?

I deal with insurance brokers and agents all the time. I then also deal with insurance adjusters. The brokers and agents are salesmen they very rarely know anything about code and often give inaccurate info. The adjusters are the ones who know and are the ones who check things out in the event of a claim. Many times if they see something they are not sure of they will call in a sweep like me to do an inspection. And I will find anything wrong. They then make the determination as to whether that is grounds to deny a claim. It usually isn't but like I said before why take the chance.

You are so full of it.there is no serial# or any identification mark on fire bricks.give your head a shake

 

[begreen]

You are so full of it.there is no serial# or any identification mark on fire bricks.give your head a shake

Reread his post. If one puts standard firebrick in a stove that had pumice firebrick from the factory then the type of brick has changed. That can alter UL testing and EPA certification. He also said it probably will not make a difference on an insurance claim, but why take the chance?

 

[marty319]

Reread his post. If one puts standard firebrick in a stove that had pumice firebrick from the factory then the type of brick has changed. That can alter UL testing and EPA certification. He also said it probably will not make a difference on an insurance claim, but why take the chance?

Please I beg your forgiveness

 

[bholler]

What they said keep the same type of brick and avoid any potential problems. Unless it is an old unlisted stove then it doesn't really matter.

 

[Hoytman]

Which is exactly the type of stove I plan on switching the bricks in. May not switch them, may add more. There are not lightweight pumice bricks, so something similar to high density will be used because they more resemble what is in there now. This is a tinkering stove. I’m going to be doing several things to play with it. It will not be out in anyone else’s home and will likely never be back in mine, unless I like what I see...but I doubt it. This is for fun.
My Lopi will get Lopi replacement bricks, even though it’s used, for the reasons others mentioned. Just because...but not out of fear of an agent or adjuster. I’m great friends with the adjusters, and I sleep every night with the insurance agent. She’s a looker too!! I think I have that department covered.

 

[Hoytman]

Soapstone absorbs heat. As does some of the fire bricks in these stoves to a point. There are materials for tiles and bricks that might allow a fire to become more intense by insulating the fire box, but also may not really hold that heat for any length of time. Think space shuttle tiles. They can withstand super extreme temperatures, yet cool quick enough to allow man to grab the tile by the edges while the center of the tile is still glowing. Seen that in discovery some 30-35 years ago.

I’m just tying to see what is out there and safe to use in a wood stove situation. Still finding a few things on google, but nothing solid yet. That’s why I asked for help.

 

[bholler]

Soapstone absorbs heat. As does some of the fire bricks in these stoves to a point. There are materials for tiles and bricks that might allow a fire to become more intense by insulating the fire box, but also may not really hold that heat for any length of time. Think space shuttle tiles. They can withstand super extreme temperatures, yet cool quick enough to allow man to grab the tile by the edges while the center of the tile is still glowing. Seen that in discovery some 30-35 years ago.

I’m just tying to see what is out there and safe to use in a wood stove situation. Still finding a few things on google, but nothing solid yet. That’s why I asked for help.

And there is nothing wrong with tinkering at all if you know what you are doing and do it safely. I am giving advice for anyone who may read this thread though. And in most cases it is a safer bet to just use the original style brick.

But yeah on an old unlisted stove tinker with the type of bricks all you want. Honestly I doubt you will see much difference but I have been wrong plenty of times before

 

[Hoytman]

You’re right, may not see much difference.
The stove will be on a rolling skid and moved in and out of garage and away fro the garage for firing. So, regardless of what I do to it, it will be done safely. Just saying for those reading this into the future.