Was wanting to connect new wood stove up for dhw. I'm not sure it's worth it? I currently have a 50 gallon 10yr old lifetime guarantee electric hot water heater. I will have to purchase another tank approx $300-$350 ( don't want used one for fear of leaks or premature failure of some sort ), space lost in basement ( not a huge deal) 2 hwh stands $100. All plumbing including plumber (friend) guessing $200. Also small expansion tank. Guessing $100?? . Also the worry about extra things to leak, parts to fail. Also I'm not familiar with whole thing and not sure if tank will over heat while not in use and pop the relief valve. Was thinking it prob cost $500 a year to run current water heater. What do you think ? Is it worth it? I already have a coil in stove. This will be a gravity style system and if I'm correct only the 1 tank will be heated by stove , the main one can poss still use electric if not much water is being used so no drawl from tank being heated by stove? Also why do I need 2 tanks as recommended by stove company if only 1 is truly being heated by stove?
Is it really worth it?
- Thread starter tiswood
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It is a brand new stove and it has a coil. It's just a matter of trying to figure out if it's worth the cost/ poss problems with dhw hook up. My lack of knowledge about the plumbing part has me wondering if it's a good ideal. It's a woodstove so no way to stop the hot water from overheating .
Wisneaky
Minister of Fire
FAQ from www.hilkoil.com
QUESTION: Do I have to re-do any of my old plumbing?
ANSWER: No, you can leave your old plumbing in place.
QUESTION: But the hot water will be stored in the (electrically-heated/gas-heated) tank I currently use?
ANSWER: Yes, and you leave the electricity turned off (or the gas turned off).
QUESTION: But my water tank has only two pipes, the cold going in, and the hot coming out. How do I connect my stove to this without modifying those pipes?
ANSWER: Your tank has a couple more places to connect pipes. This is for the path of stove-heated water (cold out ... hot in).
QUESTION: Two more places to connect pipes? Where is that?
ANSWER:
1. The drain spigot at the bottom of the tank.
2. The pressure relief valve at the top of the tank.
QUESTION: Okay, but if I remove that valve, suppose I need a pressure relief valve!
ANSWER: You move the pressure valve to a different location, that's all.
QUESTION: Will the water remain in the stove long enough to reach the temperature I'm used to?
ANSWER: The water continuously circulates through the stove, that's how it gets just as hot.
QUESTION: What keeps the water from getting TOO hot?
ANSWER: This should not be a problem, unless your stove is a very hot-burning one (like a coal stove).
QUESTION: Okay, suppose my stove burns extremely hot?
ANSWER: There are quite a few different ways to "cool down" your hot water. One of the simplest is to install an in-line, variable speed circulating pump. The faster that the water circulates, the "cooler" it will be.
QUESTION: Is a pump required to circulate the water?
ANSWER: No. If your water tank is very nearby to, or at a higher level than, your stove, you can set up a passive circulation system (a thermosiphon). Cold water flows downhill from the bottom of the tank, and as it is heated in the stove, it rises (flows uphill) to be deposited at the top of your tank.
QUESTION: Do I have to re-do any of my old plumbing?
ANSWER: No, you can leave your old plumbing in place.
QUESTION: But the hot water will be stored in the (electrically-heated/gas-heated) tank I currently use?
ANSWER: Yes, and you leave the electricity turned off (or the gas turned off).
QUESTION: But my water tank has only two pipes, the cold going in, and the hot coming out. How do I connect my stove to this without modifying those pipes?
ANSWER: Your tank has a couple more places to connect pipes. This is for the path of stove-heated water (cold out ... hot in).
QUESTION: Two more places to connect pipes? Where is that?
ANSWER:
1. The drain spigot at the bottom of the tank.
2. The pressure relief valve at the top of the tank.
QUESTION: Okay, but if I remove that valve, suppose I need a pressure relief valve!
ANSWER: You move the pressure valve to a different location, that's all.
QUESTION: Will the water remain in the stove long enough to reach the temperature I'm used to?
ANSWER: The water continuously circulates through the stove, that's how it gets just as hot.
QUESTION: What keeps the water from getting TOO hot?
ANSWER: This should not be a problem, unless your stove is a very hot-burning one (like a coal stove).
QUESTION: Okay, suppose my stove burns extremely hot?
ANSWER: There are quite a few different ways to "cool down" your hot water. One of the simplest is to install an in-line, variable speed circulating pump. The faster that the water circulates, the "cooler" it will be.
QUESTION: Is a pump required to circulate the water?
ANSWER: No. If your water tank is very nearby to, or at a higher level than, your stove, you can set up a passive circulation system (a thermosiphon). Cold water flows downhill from the bottom of the tank, and as it is heated in the stove, it rises (flows uphill) to be deposited at the top of your tank.
What brand new stove, in the US, has a water coil in it? Are you really paying 500$ a year for hot water? Your rates must be very very high. I really like the simplicity an zero maintenance of a basic, electric, tank water heater. My total energy bill, all electric, is just above 500$ for the year once I subtract my hot tub out.
It's a ds 160 stove, I paid for the water coil to be installed on the order.Yes our electric is high. Average about $180 a month. Summer is more like $250. It's a guess that the elect water heater is costing $500 a year may be only 400 but I doubt much less. 3 kids me and wife.
Ah, I see
(broken link removed to http://www.messickstove.com/products/ds-machine-stoves--furnaces/wood--coal-stoves/energymax-extreme-160/)
This is some non-epa wood/coal furnace looking thing right?
(broken link removed to http://www.messickstove.com/products/ds-machine-stoves--furnaces/wood--coal-stoves/energymax-extreme-160/)
This is some non-epa wood/coal furnace looking thing right?
It has a secondary burn in the top . Looks like 3 propane grill burners. I can't tell you the exact epa specs. I don't pay attention to epa"s way . I know it's cleaner than my old stove . Just wondering if water hook up is worth it.
Wisneaky
Minister of Fire
Wisneaky
Minister of Fire
I spoke with ds about using only 1 tank. He said the heat can cause your elements to fail in main tank that's why you should use a 2nd tank so the hottest water is only in the secondary tank. Although you can only use 1 tank if elements fail you will have to replace them.. That helps me understand why 2 tanks.Wisneaky I read your post as well as the link you shared with me earlier about that. Thank you it helped my Plummer also understand how to hook it up.
PassionForFire&Water
Minister of Fire
it has a great efficiency of 87.9%, ............ according to their website.
That tells me it is a NO go for me.
I'd error on caution on what they're saying about the EPA approval. Coal/wood units are exempt from the EPA. I found nothing online that shows they are EPA certified.
I know this stove has been beat down from what I have read. The problem I see is no one I know has one. So I decided to try it myself. I kinda like old school stuff . I did NOT want a catalyst stove but wanted something more efficient than my old all nighter ( like a fisher) It was about 35 years old so I think this stove is a step up.. It may not be top of the line with longest / cleanest burn time but the price wasn't top of the line either . I just want to keep warm and burn less than my normal 7-8 cords a year.
Their own site only calls it UL tested. No emissions rate data.
So OP, tiswood, is there an EPA tag on the back of the stove?
I only see a tag from guardian testing co. I also believe furnaces are exempt. Like I said I really don't care what epa approves or is exempt whatever. My last stove wasn't epa approved either and heated my dads house then mine throughout the winter 24/7. Since it wasn't approved I can't imagine how it worked! My question is to folks that heat their water with a stove and is it worth the $$ or not? Not a thread to pick my or anyone less stove apart . I bought it not anyone else , if it doesn't work it's on me. I have never been a follower until I believe study and understand something . I was considering a kumma but my wood is to long and this was about 1/2 the price. If this fails I may get a kumma and sell all my wood and start over. But I'm confident this will work.
I only ask about EPA since if I wanted to buy a DS160 for my 1800 SF shop I would need EPA cert for my insurance. You can use a burn barrel if you want.
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