Is my Airwash system bad?

[rsps]

I purchased a new Regency I 2400 and had it installed at the end of december. I noticed that the window sure did soot over quickly and that I would have to wash it and wash it and wash it to get it clean. The co that installed it came out and took a look and gave me some cleaner. It seems to be getting worse. I do damper the sucker down at night to about an inch from a fully closed damper, but come on, wasn't this fireplace meant to do that? My dad also has an insert and he was surprised to hear that I would have to clean it every two fires and that I cannot clean it with a soft rag, or windex but have to buy the heavy duty window cleaner for soot.
I also noticed that a piece of the braided material that insulates the window is coming loose. Could that be the problem?

 

[Roospike]

Yes, If the front gasket is coming loose that would make issues with how the stove runs and window issues.

How dry is your wood / how long do you season it ?
what kind of wood?
Does the wood have moisture coming out the ends?
How long does it take for newly added wood to light / start burning ?
How long do you let the wood char in the stove before closing the air damper ?
Have you tried the dollar bill test on the door ?

 

[rsps]

Hmm that dollar bill test sounds interesting, do tell more.
The wood is mixed maple, oak, elm, birch.
It is reasonably seasoned, some moisture does come out the ends
I let the fire get going well and then damper down, but I do that because I want to heat through the night and I don't want to go through wood like water. We bought this to be a workhorse...since we have electric heat in Ct and cannot afford to use it.
I burn with two splits side to side and one front to back. but once the fire is established I reposition the wood so it is all side to side.

I also noticed that on outside of the window I see between the metal and the window, is that a normal gap of about a 1/4-1/2 inch?

 

[Roospike]

The window in the door should have a gasket to seal between the the two.

The dollar bill test.

Place a dollar bill in the door between the door and the stove seal and close the door on the dollar, check to see if its a tight / snug fit and takes good effort to pull out the bill if at all....
Move around the door with the dollar bill in different spots closing the door on the bill and test all the way around.

If your wood in not properly seasoned you will get a black window and it can also built up in your chimney.

I normally season hard wood for 2 years before burning , if your burning Oak for example that has only been seasoned for 6 months then the Oak is stil wet and "green"

Soft and Medium BTU woods season 9 months cut , split and stacked.

Hard woods season 18 - 24 months cut , split and stacked.

 

[babalu87]

It is reasonably seasoned, some moisture does come out the ends

The wood is too wet.
Not too wet to burn but too wet for the air wash system to work.

Are you filling the firebox, two splits unless they are huge isnt much wood.

 

[Rhone]

I think that gap you're referring to on the window is normal, the window on mine has a gasket around it and why the window is slightly away from the metal. As for dirty glass, I need some serious cleaner regardless. The black crap that sticks on the glass is like black superglue. Windex, Oven cleaner, ash & newspaper, vinegar, Super Green, Orange Degreaser didn't even make a dent to it when I tried, and I started scraping it off with a razor. I later found out, the instruction manual says not to, as you can etch the glass and weaken it. Get yourself a bottle of Rutland Hearth & Grill Conditioning Glass Cleaner http://www.northlineexpress.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=5RU-84&source=nextag&kw=5RU-84 I've tried many products and that one owns all others. I purchased an 8 oz bottle and I go through 1/2 a bottle a year. Definetely worth the $5 for it. One reason, it's a polish not a spray and it takes a little elbow grease using it, but all other products required a frustrating amount of elbow grease or only removed a light coating. Also, it makes future cleanings easier because it coats your glass with a special coating.

Definetely fix that gasket, and you may be burning wood that's too wet. The glass gets dirty when water in the wood comes out as steam, condenses on the glass, and while it's water on your glass it collects smoke particles which eventually burn and leave black crap that hangs on like superglue. Your air wash should be able to handle a little moisture in the wood, but it can't handle a lot. Also, now that you know the moisture in the wood is causing your dirty glass think of ways to prevent it from reaching the glass. Loading side/side helps, I would not do that front/back log you mention since the steam comes out the ends of the logs that front/back piece sprays steam into your air wash system. That can't be good. Also, the further back you keep your wood you'll find the cleaner the glass stays. But, if you have a gasket leak it'll interfere with the air wash system and your glass will dirty, usually in the location the leak is. Last, there's also a learning curve, when I first started my glass got dirty real quick. I didn't understand that moisture in the wood causes it, and that my wood was wetter than normal, and I was getting to know my new unit. After the first 3-4 months I learned how to load it, operate it, I worked harder on drying the wood and I'm now able to go at least 2 months without cleaning my glass it stays nearly spotless. I look back and can't believe where I started from, to where I am now. You'll find it more enjoyable as you get to know how your unit likes to be handled.

**EDIT Looks like I was beat to the punch

 

[rsps]

I didn't cut this wood, but bought it from a reputable farmer down the road. The guys who installed the stove came and took a look at the wood to see if that was the problem. All of it looks well seasoned. I would assume there would be some moisture release in the burning.
I will try the dollar bill test. I assume you don't do it while burning....or maybe you do.

 

[Rhone]

Don't do the dollar bill test while burning, is the bark falling off the wood and it's gray? That's a sign of well seasoned wood.

 

[rsps]

Yes, mostly that is the case. of course with birch black and white the bark doesn't generally fall off.

 

[Andre B.]

I will try the dollar bill test. I assume you don't do it while burning....or maybe you do.

If you do make sure it is a 1 dollar bill and not a 100.
Could get to be an expensive test.

 

[rsps]

It is reasonably seasoned, some moisture does come out the ends

The wood is too wet.
Not too wet to burn but too wet for the air wash system to work.

Are you filling the firebox, two splits unless they are huge isnt much wood.

It is not that big of a firebox and I am hesitant to over load it.I don't like the wood being flush with the metal rods on the top. I usually put three splits in and fill it as it settles.
And I load it throughout the day on cold days and then at around 11:00 at night. And that is when I really damper it down.

 

[ozarkjeep]

Unless you really char that 11:00 at night load down before dampering, it will smoke your glass over.

when its dampered down, there isnt enough incoming air to effectively wash the glass against the nsaties coming from the uncharred wood load.




[quote author="rsps" date="1170445522"[

It is not that big of a firebox and I am hesitant to over load it.I don't like the wood being flush with the metal rods on the top. I usually put three splits in and fill it as it settles.
And I load it throughout the day on cold days and then at around 11:00 at night. And that is when I really damper it down.[/quote]

 

[hilly]

It is reasonably seasoned, some moisture does come out the ends

The wood is too wet.
Not too wet to burn but too wet for the air wash system to work.

Are you filling the firebox, two splits unless they are huge isnt much wood.

It is not that big of a firebox and I am hesitant to over load it.I don't like the wood being flush with the metal rods on the top. I usually put three splits in and fill it as it settles.
And I load it throughout the day on cold days and then at around 11:00 at night. And that is when I really damper it down.

I've got the same stove as you do and I don't hesitate to load it up, even if it means some of the wood is touching the secondary burn tubes at the top. If I do load it up I watch it pretty carefully as the softwood I burn is dry and gives off a lot of heat.

As far as my glass goes, it stays mostly clean, but not crystal clear. When it goes out I clean it with a damp cloth and it's good for some time. It does get dirtier when I damp it right down.

When you load up your stove for the night time burn, make sure you give it lots of air for 20-30 min, and then gradually close it down.

 

[Gooserider]

You can buy moisture meters, Harbor Freight sells a reasonably decent one for not that much. There is also the "knock test" - bang two pieces together - they should make a clear, sharp "ringing" tone like a baseball bat or those wooden "rythm sticks" you will sometimes see drummers use. If they make a dull "thud" then the wood is wet / green. It is worth noting that firewood dealers are NOTORIOUS for selling only "sorta kinda dry" wood as "well seasoned" - that and short cords are the two biggest complaints you will see on the list.

It won't help you this season, but the general advice is to either process your own, or purchase your wood EARLY in the spring / summer and put it in a shed or under a tarp (see other threads on how to tarp a pile) so that it can dry at least all summer. Many try to have two years wood supply cut and split ahead of time.

If you can see moisture coming out of the ends of your splits the wood is WAY wetter than it should be to work well. That sort of wood may have been OK for fireplace use, but it doesn't work well in the modern stoves. It also won't make as much heat because all the heat needed to evaporate that moisture is lost up the chimney.

Gooserider