is my only option a 30 Degree all fuel elbow? with pictures

[kurthood]

Hello all,

trying to figure out my chimney pipe to stove connection and wanted to offer it up to the group for suggestions. the chimney pipe stubs through the wall and is 3.5" away from the sheetrock wall. The OD of the pipe is 8" with a 6" ID. The hearth pad is kiddie cornered and I am attempting to angle away from the wall to center the stove on the pad. My biggest issue seems to be clearance away from the wall before transitioning to regular old black stove pipe. Realizing that chimney pipe 45 degree elbows are not an option, and seemingly no longer even produced, I'm thinking my only option is a 30 degree elbow and then transition to black stove pipe and 90 down to the stove. Any other ideas? I hate to sound like a cheapskate but the 30 degree chimney elbows are going for $230+. Plus the offset kits come with two and I only need one. Heres a few photos to give you all an idea of what im working with. Also a note the existing chimney is Metalbestos. So Selkirk is my only option I believe?

 

[begreen]

Crap, lousy location. Was the dry wall on the left added after the thimble was installed? It's not textbook, but I would be tempted to connect with Selkirk double-wall DSP and install a vented 12" wall shield on the pipe side of the wall.

 

[kurthood]

Crap, lousy location. Was the dry wall on the left added after the thimble was installed? It's not textbook, but I would be tempted to connect with Selkirk double-wall DSP and install a vented 12" wall shield on the pipe side of the wall.

Wicked lousy location I agree. Hard to say about the Sheetrock. Can't say for sure but I'm guessing the basement was finished and then the stove and chimney were after thoughts. All from the previous homeowner. I was thinking about Selkirk dsp but i believe it was calling for 6" of clearance, which I don't have. I will look into that wall shield you mentioned and see what that's all about

 

[skinanbones]

Look into ICC Prime. http://www.icc-rsf.com/en/excelprime
It's has a listed clearance of 4.5 inches with its sheild. It's hard to tell due to glare but it seem once you put on your flu extension you would have 4.75 to the wall.

 

[Highbeam]

What is behind the sheetrock in that location? Is it a framed wood wall or concrete?

 

[kurthood]

What is behind the sheetrock in that location? Is it a framed wood wall or concrete?

Likely a small stick frame to have something for the Sheetrock to fasten to. Behind the stick frame is most definitely concrete. I hate to start tearing finished walls off but that may be an easy solution. Wouldn't have to worry about clearance to the concrete foundation. Was that what you had in mind?

 

[Highbeam]

Was that what you had in mind?

Yes. Even to replace the combustible stuff in just a small area to get your required clearances.

 

[begreen]

Depending on the stud locations, if you can cut out a section of the drywall adjacent to the pipe, say a 14" x 14" section, then patch that with metal, it may suffice to provide the 6" clearance necessary, especially if the first fitting is an elbow pointing away from the wall. Of course Murphy's Law says there will be a stud right at the thimble exit. In that case I would do the small wall shield (with air gap behind it).

 

[Highbeam]

In that case I would do the small wall shield (with air gap behind it).

Does this method actually, officially, buy you anything? You still need 6" between the elbow and combustibles, no?

Replace sheetrock with (1/2")durock and wood studs with metal studs in the area as needed to gain the 6" clearance to combustibles and you will be legal.

Another option may be to remove the wood/sheetrock and extend the existing tile hearth all the way to the ceiling.

 

[kurthood]

Does this method actually, officially, buy you anything? You still need 6" between the elbow and combustibles, no?

Replace sheetrock with (1/2")durock and wood studs with metal studs in the area as needed to gain the 6" clearance to combustibles and you will be legal.

Another option may be to remove the wood/sheetrock and extend the existing tile hearth all the way to the ceiling.

Thanks for all of the ideas. I was hoping for a quick and easy install with this stove but it seems its a bit more involved than I had hoped. I think that to have a quality aesthetic and finished product I will end up tiling all the way up to the ceiling. Of course matching the previous tile that is there is probably out of the question so ill probably end up having to replace both walls to make it look half decent. DOH!!

 

[begreen]

Does this method actually, officially, buy you anything? You still need 6" between the elbow and combustibles, no?

Replace sheetrock with (1/2")durock and wood studs with metal studs in the area as needed to gain the 6" clearance to combustibles and you will be legal.

Another option may be to remove the wood/sheetrock and extend the existing tile hearth all the way to the ceiling.

It's up to the inspector. Without a doubt a proper local wall shield will render the wall behind it very cool. We have seen situations in the past where the inspector will approve this as an acceptable workaround.

Actually, all he needs is 6" clear to combustibles for a few inches until the double-wall elbow turns away from the wall and achieves safe distance. If the studs straddle this adjacent area then removing the drywall and replacing it with a metal plate will suffice. He might need to remove paper from the insulation in that area. The plate can be painted. Removing the studs and replacing them with metal for this little exposure is overkill.

 

[Highbeam]

Rather than jack around with metal, if the only combustible in the violation zone is sheetrock then you can cut it out and replace with cement board of the same thickness as the drywall. Paint and joint compound and you won't even know it's not sheetrock.

If there is a stud in the zone it will not be legal to leave it. Rules are rules.

Time to explore what's in that wall. There's a really good chance that there are no studs to worry about (in the zone) since you are right next to the corner.

If you want to tear it out and tile up to the ceiling you could perhaps install a mantle piece at the current top of tile and then switch to a different material above the mantle. A two tone job.