is there any ZC fireplace that doesn't have an issue???

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.
iron

iron

Minister of Fire
Sep 23, 2015
638
southeast kootenays
in researching ZCFPs primarily on hearth.com, it seems that all new units have some kind of issue. is there a unit that is universally loved by hearth.com members?

here's my brief summary of ones i can remember reading about and finding issues with:
-regency EX90 - goofy, finicky catalyst
-quadrafire 7100 - some panel over/near the louvers restricts air flow and seriously cuts down the heat output
-napolean nz3000 - glass gets very dirty
-fireplaceX - posi-pressure might lead to issues within your house where the warm air seeps out into the cold exterior air

i know i'm missing others. i'd love to get a recommendation for something that can be installed and operated with little to no issues. something the size of the napolean nz3000.
 
I have a Enviro 1200 that is to small for what your looking for. Maybe one of the Enviro 1700 series would work. The stoves are well liked on here. I've had (3) all night fires and has worked perfectly.
 
I have a selkirk chardonnay and i love it its made by sbi.
 
jb6l6gc said:
I have a selkirk chardonnay and i love it its made by sbi.
Click to expand...
Hello there!

I'm in the process of choosing a unit as well! I thought I'd researched ALL the ZC fireplaces.... guess not. I tried going to their website and can't pull up the info there- don't know if it is an issue on my end or theirs. Could you tell me the viewing area of your Chardonnay? Is it a cat? I have about a 2000 sf house to heat (2 stories). I don't want to drill you for everything, but it may or may not be worth me digging further for info. It's a pretty unit though!!!
 
(broken link removed to http://www.selkirkcorp.com/max-fireplaces/Default.aspx)

here is the link to their fireplace info. No cat unfortunatly mine is the mid efficient. The county paid for the install ( long story) they wouldnt spring the extra $$$ for the high efficient
All specs and info should be on that link brochures, installation docs etc
 
Hi Iron- couple of other wood zc fireplaces out there, Hearthstone makes the Montgomery, its essentially the same zc wood fireplace made by Osburn of SBI. Osburn Stratford is theirs I believe if memory serves.
 
My old nz wasn't bad compared to my blaze King. 2 different animals but honestly with good wood the nz wasn't bad. Put out a lot of heat With the blower kit too.
 
I haven't really heard any issues with the FPX regarding the positive pressure. It's a pretty good design, but it's very difficult to integrate into an existing house, or a new house for that matter. It's a solid heater, it uses more wood than I'd like but otherwise it's a top of the line option.
 
I don't think the potential FPX issue you suggest is real, but if it is a concern, it is not necessary to install these units with outside air (posi-pressure). I have been very pleased with mine (with the posi-pressure).

You can find "issues" that certain members have experienced with every stove or fireplace discussed on this forum. Not all of them are related to the stove or fireplace. I would suggest you consider the overall body of discussion. Otherwise you will drive yourself crazy overthinking this. I don't think there are hardly any "bad" choices out there. Some may be better suited for your needs than others, but most all of them will work in the right setting.
 
  • Like
Reactions: stovelark
Isaiah53 said:
I don't think the potential FPX issue you suggest is real, but if it is a concern, it is not necessary to install these units with outside air (posi-pressure). I have been very pleased with mine (with the posi-pressure).

You can find "issues" that certain members have experienced with every stove or fireplace discussed on this forum. Not all of them are related to the stove or fireplace. I would suggest you consider the overall body of discussion. Otherwise you will drive yourself crazy overthinking this. I don't think there are hardly any "bad" choices out there. Some may be better suited for your needs than others, but most all of them will work in the right setting.
Click to expand...
So your blower is installed in the basement or something rather than outside the envelope of the home?
 
webby3650 said:
So your blower is installed in the basement or something rather than outside the envelope of the home?
Click to expand...
No, my blower is up in the attic, but I was definitely under the impression that it could be installed inside the house. My install manual gave a North American map that showed where the posi-pressure should not be installed (coldest climates). My dealer strongly recommended the outside air arrangement, although he never told me why. I was concerned about strong winds blowing in cold air when the unit was down (based on some older reviews on this site), so he suggested the attic to protect it from the wind. Works very well there for me. Fan noise is minimal even on high.
 
Isaiah53 said:
I don't think the potential FPX issue you suggest is real, but if it is a concern, it is not necessary to install these units with outside air (posi-pressure). I have been very pleased with mine (with the posi-pressure).

You can find "issues" that certain members have experienced with every stove or fireplace discussed on this forum. Not all of them are related to the stove or fireplace. I would suggest you consider the overall body of discussion. Otherwise you will drive yourself crazy overthinking this. I don't think there are hardly any "bad" choices out there. Some may be better suited for your needs than others, but most all of them will work in the right setting.
Click to expand...

posts #3 and #12 of this thread give me significant cause for concern with the FPX:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...0-better-than-xtrordinair-fpx-36-elite.27580/

i really do like the look of the FPX models. they're local to me too, so i like that aspect. just not sure on the posi-pressure system. isaiah53, with your blower in the attic, would you consider that a posi-pressure system, or does that negate it a little bit? or, will it cause more issues (hot air being sucked into attic to replace the cold air?) or will it just grab cold air through the roof vents?
 
iron said:
-quadrafire 7100 - some panel over/near the louvers restricts air flow and seriously cuts down the heat output
Click to expand...
I've got the Heat n' Glo Northstar, which is basically the same stove. Never noticed any issues with "reduced heat output" from it. If anything, my living room is too hot (first world wood burner problems, right?)
 
so here's the list i have "narrowed down" based on hearth.com reviews and other sites. can anyone please tell me which of these cannot be operated when you lose power? i seem to recall a disgruntled user of the FPX36 being quite upset when he lost power and his unit didn't work.

any other feedback would be greatly appreciated.

http://www.heatilator.com/Products/Constitution-Wood-Fireplace.aspx

(broken link removed to http://www.quadrafire.com/Products/7100-Wood-Fireplace.aspx)

http://www.fireplacex.com/ProductGuide/ProductDetail.aspx?modelsku=99800603

http://www.fireplacex.com/ProductGuide/ProductDetail.aspx?modelsku=98500104

http://www.heatnglo.com/products/north-star-wood-fireplace.aspx

(broken link removed to http://napoleonfireplaces.com/products/napoleon-high-country-2600-wood-fireplace/)

(broken link removed to http://napoleonfireplaces.com/products/high-country-3000-wood-fireplace/)

(broken link removed to http://www.woodstoves-fireplaces.com/superior-6820-high-output-fireplace/)

http://fireplaceking.com/shop/bis-tradition-ce/

(broken link removed to http://www.kozyheat.com/mobile/product/z42)

http://www.pacificenergy.net/products/wood/fireplaces/fp30/

(broken link removed to http://www.icc-rsf.com/en/opel-3-fireplace)

(broken link removed to http://www.icc-rsf.com/en/focus-320-fireplace)


with the quadrafire, i'm worried about the severe negative reviews on this thread:
(broken link removed to http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2374955/quadra-fire-7100-fp)
 
Isaiah53 said:
No, my blower is up in the attic, but I was definitely under the impression that it could be installed inside the house. My install manual gave a North American map that showed where the posi-pressure should not be installed (coldest climates). My dealer strongly recommended the outside air arrangement, although he never told me why. I was concerned about strong winds blowing in cold air when the unit was down (based on some older reviews on this site), so he suggested the attic to protect it from the wind. Works very well there for me. Fan noise is minimal even on high.
Click to expand...

i read some other thread where the guy installed the blower such that it was below the fireplace. the theory was that cold air would not naturally enter the unit when it was off with the blower down low. with the blower in the attic, do you find you have cold air drafts from there?
 
iron said:
with the quadrafire, i'm worried about the severe negative reviews on this thread:
(broken link removed to http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2374955/quadra-fire-7100-fp)
Click to expand...
Like I said, the Northstar is nearly the same unit. I think this guy both got a lemon and had a shoddy install.

Mine was set up with a rheostat and bypass switch on the blowers, which has turned out to be good. As the review pointed out, the snap disk doesn't always "notice" the heat in the firebox and won't kick on the fans. This gets more and more true as you build up some ash on the bottom and further insulate the sensor. When I'm burning, I just leave the bypass switch "on" and let 'er run. Also, its not true that the screws holding down the blower access door swell and can't be removed. I've pulled mine out three times to clean under there with no issue. Maybe hit 'em with some PB blaster before you start cranking on them with an electric screwdriver.

This stove also likes to burn HOT. It'll do OK with smaller fires, but you'll get lots of soot on the glass and will generally be disappointed with the performance. On a full load of dry wood, this stove is a wonder. Tons of heat that really lasts when it gets down to coals, clean glass, and the secondaries are fun to watch.

I've had to tighten up the door gaskets a couple times, which is pretty easy to do with a 9/16" wrench - just move a washer or two from one side to the other of the latch mechanism. I wouldn't consider that an "issue" so much as maintenance.
 
I have the Flame Monaco Which is also made by SBI. It is the same as the osburn Stratford, silkirk, Mongomery and I believe the Lafayette by valcort except this is one door not 2. I don't have any issues with it. The Monaco is very nice on the wallet also.
 
 
Like Iron and SouthernHeat, I will be purchasing a zero clearance fireplace. I've done a lot of research as well.

Please see my 'Zero Clearance Fireplaces Specs Sheet' (attached). My list shows many of the ZC models talked about in this thread and other ZC threads, but instead of toggling between websites - this list has all the relevant characteristics in one place.

Man y thanks to David Ervin for his NorthStar expertise as I'm leaning towards the NorthStar unit (all around good feeback from NorthStart owners on this site). My specific concern is ALL the dealers in my area of the country (Long Island New York) get absolutely TERRIBLE reviews. And thanks to Hearth members I've learned that the dealer / installer is probably more important than the actual model you select.

I hope my ZC Specs sheet helps.

Matt
Long Island NY


[Hearth.com] is there any ZC fireplace that doesn't have an issue???
 
iron said:
posts #3 and #12 of this thread give me significant cause for concern with the FPX:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...0-better-than-xtrordinair-fpx-36-elite.27580/

i really do like the look of the FPX models. they're local to me too, so i like that aspect. just not sure on the posi-pressure system. isaiah53, with your blower in the attic, would you consider that a posi-pressure system, or does that negate it a little bit? or, will it cause more issues (hot air being sucked into attic to replace the cold air?) or will it just grab cold air through the roof vents?
Click to expand...

It would be considered posi-pressure in the attic. I am sure it gets almost all of its air from the roof vents.

The earlier FPX units had a problem with cold air entering the house directly through the blower circuit when the fireplace was not running. I suspect that was the issue that was being alluded to in post #3. There are a couple of reviews (in the Stove Review Section) that discussed this issue. When I questioned my dealer about this, he told me Travis had put a weight loaded damper on the discharge of the blower to stop this from happening, but with very strong winds, it was still possible for the cold air to force the damper open. I can frequently see 40-60 mph winds up in the mountains, so he suggested putting it in the attic. He was very firm that it should be installed with the Posi, although he never told me why. I do not get any cold air into the house from the fireplace with this arrangement. In hindsight, most of the time it is cold and windy outside, the unit will be running anyway.

The other post is pure speculation. The argument about starting with cold air increasing the heat required is true, but I think Travis would argue that preventing cold air drafts (leakage) into the house more than compensates for this. I can tell you from a practical standpoint, these units will absolutely keep your house warm. They are very strong heaters and I have never seen a review that stated otherwise. They may use more wood doing so, but you will not be cold.

I think the argument about rotting your house because of positive pressure is BS. If anything blowing warmer house air through the walls would reduce the moisture. I think the overall effect is probably insignificant anyway. I strongly suspect that house had water leaks or was not sealed well.

I think the positives of the FPX are its strong blower and large heat output. Its sturdy and looks great with a large window area and firebox. I really like having a remote blower because it greatly reduces the noise which to me destroys the ambiance of a fireplace. The negatives are the catalyst and ultimate replacement cost, the lack of turndown, short burn time, and the wood consumption. I cannot turn the air down more than halfway without getting the doors black quickly. I think it is just a function of the large glass area. I tend to batch fire it to control the temperature. I use a total of about 5-6 cords a year in a typical 0-30 F winter temp burning Oct through May in a 2700 ft2 home. It will not burn through the night for me but there is enough residual heat so the house is typically 65-68 in the morning. My wood is mostly beetle killed pine which reduces the burn time. If you do not have access to inexpensive wood, I would hesitate to recommend one. The air cooled chimney can also be a problem installing to allow for the cooling air ducts. Overall my family loves it. Teenage daughters love sitting on the hearth in front of it in the morning and evening.
 
thanks for the feedback, I53. very thorough.

i think we're ultimately going to use the heat n glow northstar, like matt. however, the one shop guy looked at some pics i sent him and thought the unit (as with most fireplaces) could be too much for our house. we have 2300sf with about 2/3 of that on the main floor with the fireplace. the living room and kitchen are open to one another, and then a hallway feeds 3 beds and 2 baths. the fireplace is in the living room.

what do you guys think? too much unit for the house? i do plan to direct vent down to the basement. i assume i can always damper down the unit to burn cooler, but with the drawback of black glass. or, maybe i can just use the direct venting and close off the upstairs blower...
 
I think the size at 2.7 ft3 is workable. It would help if the other 1/3 is a second floor instead of your basement. It won't heat the basement from above. I would not want to go much smaller on a ZC. You would probably need to go to a stove if you need less heat. They give you better control. In addition to the air control and amount of wood you load, you will likely have to batch fire the unit at times which is manageable. The large mass of these units helps you do that.

The direct vent to the basement idea will not work. Warm air does not draft down. Even if you put a blower on it (zone heating), I would not expect any significant heat down there. I don't think zone heating is even an option on the Northstar. You would need a stove or fireplace in the basement to heat it effectively.
 
Isaiah53 said:
I think the size at 2.7 ft3 is workable. It would help if the other 1/3 is a second floor instead of your basement. It won't heat the basement from above. I would not want to go much smaller on a ZC. You would probably need to go to a stove if you need less heat. They give you better control. In addition to the air control and amount of wood you load, you will likely have to batch fire the unit at times which is manageable. The large mass of these units helps you do that.

The direct vent to the basement idea will not work. Warm air does not draft down. Even if you put a blower on it (zone heating), I would not expect any significant heat down there. I don't think zone heating is even an option on the Northstar. You would need a stove or fireplace in the basement to heat it effectively.
Click to expand...

see page 18 of this manual: http://downloads.hearthnhome.com/installManuals/480_2360.pdf

it seems like the jury is still out on whether forced air to a room below the fireplace will work. isaiah, do you have direct experience with this? how is this any different than an HVAC unit placed on top of a building that provides heat to lower floors? obviously, the air handling unit on a building is superpowered in comparison to a 600 CFM little blower fan, but it seems like it should be doable, especially in my case where it might be as simple as a ceiling vent or wall vent directly below the fireplace (i.e. no bends)
 
iron, with the right fireplace this should work. The question is how well. That will depend on the size and how well insulated the basement area is. Raw concrete walls and floors suck up a lot of heat quickly. If you can vent it low in the room it will be most effective.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom