Is this a reasonable installation price for Princess PE32?
- Thread starter daoledaole
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
![[Hearth.com] Is this a reasonable installation price for Princess PE32?](/talk/data/attachments/336/336672-b0def49c20c46f2941900c92fa05baa4.jpg?hash=nJu4mFAKBe)
Well, not for me.
30 ft is expensive. And the additional work (chase, Stone etc) costs. But d*mn, almost 30k for a stove. I'd never.,.
Also, at 30 ft you will need a key damper or two. If the installer doesn't talk to you about overdraft, get another one as they may be insufficiently knowledgeable.
30 ft is expensive. And the additional work (chase, Stone etc) costs. But d*mn, almost 30k for a stove. I'd never.,.
Also, at 30 ft you will need a key damper or two. If the installer doesn't talk to you about overdraft, get another one as they may be insufficiently knowledgeable.
Also, the fact they use single wall stove pipe is problematic. Especially for a flue that tall, you'll loose a lot of heat. You need to keep all the heat in the flue (the stove is meant to heat the home, not the flue).
T
T
Actually I never told the overdraft.
Indeed, my house is two stories, each 9 ft, and the issue you mentioned does exist. Thanks for your suggestion,
The installer should be telling you this if he is knowledgeable.
Even if a BK may not overheat as quickly as tube stoves with unregulated secondary air, a draft that is significantly higher than what the stove was designed for can damage cats, can clog cats with fly ash, and cause trouble.
Even if a BK may not overheat as quickly as tube stoves with unregulated secondary air, a draft that is significantly higher than what the stove was designed for can damage cats, can clog cats with fly ash, and cause trouble.
I'm really surprised to learn that overdraft can cause so many issueI, I had no idea before. Most of what I've heard has been about insufficient draft problems. I've learned a lot, thank you. So, based on what your opinion, a flue damper is a must, right?
With a 30 ft chimney you definitely want a key damper, also go with the double wall, if you ask blazeking they will tell you to only use double wall on their stoves.
Yes. Maybe even two...
Insufficient draft also is a problem indeed - with different symptoms and consequences - for short flues.
Understood, I will keep in mind, key damper and double wall stovepipe, thank you so much! by the way, is this a fair quote?
I think the stove is reasonable, the chimney pipe seems a bit expensive. But it's not unheard of that the flue system is more expensive than the stove, and you have 30 ft. And there seems work involved in getting the pipe in the chase.
The stainless steel chase cover seems expensive to me.
Installation of the stove - meaning connecting the pipe and lugging he stove there, seems a bit high to me.
Framing the fireplace seems a bit high too.
I don't know about the cultured stone.
That said, you're in NY. I'm on Long Island. Life sucks here as it's expensive, also for contractors. And I'm on the Eastern side. The closer to the city the more expensive things get, I presume.
It depends on where you are in NY.
@bholler?
The stainless steel chase cover seems expensive to me.
Installation of the stove - meaning connecting the pipe and lugging he stove there, seems a bit high to me.
Framing the fireplace seems a bit high too.
I don't know about the cultured stone.
That said, you're in NY. I'm on Long Island. Life sucks here as it's expensive, also for contractors. And I'm on the Eastern side. The closer to the city the more expensive things get, I presume.
It depends on where you are in NY.
@bholler?
Seems expensive but in the last 5 years prices have gone thru the roof on stoves and installs so maybe it is.
I'm in orange county, yes the stove price is fair I think. Thanks for your explanation, I learned a lot, this is the nearest dealer of mine but l I will consider again.
I have no clue how pricing is there, but I suspect it's "ridiculous" 
Do get another quote to compare.
Even if it's for another stove; it's easy to compare prices if only the stove is a difference.
Also, do you have wood already drying?
Any modern stove will need dry wood. As in <20% measured on the inside (i.e. after splitting one open and measuring there). Dealers do not sell that. So get wood stacked off the ground now. Whether you buy or cut and split yourself.
Pine or so for next season, maple for the season after that and oak for after that. Big investment getting wood for 3 years.
But after next season, you only have to buy to replace what you used.
Another option is to buy sawdust bricks. (without additives!) for the first year - while still putting up wood for the years after to get ahead of the drying curve.
You will be disappointed with the performance otherwise - but it won't be due to the stove but due to the fuel.
Do get another quote to compare.
Even if it's for another stove; it's easy to compare prices if only the stove is a difference.
Also, do you have wood already drying?
Any modern stove will need dry wood. As in <20% measured on the inside (i.e. after splitting one open and measuring there). Dealers do not sell that. So get wood stacked off the ground now. Whether you buy or cut and split yourself.
Pine or so for next season, maple for the season after that and oak for after that. Big investment getting wood for 3 years.
But after next season, you only have to buy to replace what you used.
Another option is to buy sawdust bricks. (without additives!) for the first year - while still putting up wood for the years after to get ahead of the drying curve.
You will be disappointed with the performance otherwise - but it won't be due to the stove but due to the fuel.
PE32 I think is fair like stoveliker said, but I'm shocked for other option when I received the quote, I know I'm new and a unsophisticated person in this field,that's why I came here for help, thanks everybody's time helping me, really appreciated.
The chimney price sounds reasonable the chase cover seems expensive but I don't know how big it is
Thank you for sharing so much experience about storing firewood it's truly an unexpected bonus for me! Can I use kiln-dried wood instead of sawdust bricks?I have no clue how pricing is there, but I suspect it's "ridiculous"
Do get another quote to compare.
Even if it's for another stove; it's easy to compare prices if only the stove is a difference.
Also, do you have wood already drying?
Any modern stove will need dry wood. As in <20% measured on the inside (i.e. after splitting one open and measuring there). Dealers do not sell that. So get wood stacked off the ground now. Whether you buy or cut and split yourself.
Pine or so for next season, maple for the season after that and oak for after that. Big investment getting wood for 3 years.
But after next season, you only have to buy to replace what you used.
Another option is to buy sawdust bricks. (without additives!) for the first year - while still putting up wood for the years after to get ahead of the drying curve.
You will be disappointed with the performance otherwise - but it won't be due to the stove but due to the fuel.
Yes, but kiln dried wood is often not dry enough. It generally has been dried to kill bugs but not long enough to dry out the inside of the wood sufficiently.
