Is this a Scandia?

[eclecticcottage]

A friend of mine is in a bind and was given a woodstove to heat with. I haven't seen the stove in person, however I am pretty sure that it is a cheapo knock off of a Jotul. I have some pics I will try to post from my cell phone shortly. I am looking to the experts, can anyone confirm my suspicions (there is no tag)? I don't want her to use this thing if it's dangerous, even if I have to try to rummage up a stove that's at least safe. I wish I had our old fisher that came with the cottage at this point-it wasn't great but I'm pretty sure it was solid and usable!

 

[eclecticcottage]

Here are a few pics I don't have great service so I just picked two.

 

[ct01r]

I'm no expert, but I'd say if there's no cracks/spaces to leak air in or smoke and gases out, it should be good to go. I've rehabbed a few potbelly and box stoves for the camp, my shop, etc, and it seems like the biggest difference between name-brand and knock off stoves is quality. Thicker iron/steel, tighter fitting doors, etc. So this stove may not have the baffles to hold the heat up before it goes out to the stove pipe, it might be light weight so it may not put out as much heat, etc, but that doesn't mean it's not safe. I would think that a good, thorough inspection would tell you f it's ok to use. Check the gasket on the door, the intake damper, etc.

I usually burn a "new-to-me" stove outdoors first, to see if there's anything obvious I should know about it before I take it inside. Good luck! Curt

 

[eclecticcottage]

Thanks! Again, I wasn't there, but what I was told was (by another friend) that it leaked smoke on a test burn from "cracks" which seemed "sealed" by a fresh paint job. I'm unsure if they are actual cracks or ill fitted panels/panels which need regasketing. I'm not super familiar with these types of stoves, we needed bigger than a box stove so I never paid a lot of attention to them. I know some well made stoves (a particular soap stone comes to mind) had issues with fitment/gasket smoke leaks, but it made me uneasy because from what I read of the Scandia, they weren't known for well fitted tight panels. I don't want her to endanger herself with this thing. But on the other hand, it was free and she is using it because she doesn't have a ton of money, so if it does just need regasketing, I'm willing to ask how and help do it. We've done our door gasket a number of times (design fail on Lopi's end with the Republic 1750) so that's no big deal.

 

[peakbagger]

It does look like a Taiwanese knock off. Scandia was the most known name. As long as you have adequate floor shields and clearances and keep a good eye for any cracks it should be fine.

If the stove is disassembled and possibly the judicious use of a hand grinder you should be able to match up the joints dry and then reseal them. Stoves do tend to need to be resealed no matter what brand particularly if the are not used and possible stored in damp areas (where they also get surface rust).

I dont represent myself as a Jotul expert but some models have interior heat shield that are integral o the safe operation of the stove.

 

[eclecticcottage]

Thanks...that leads to a whole new question. How to figure out clearances when the tag is clearly missing?

 

[Jan Pijpelink]

Thanks...that leads to a whole new question. How to figure out clearances when the tag is clearly missing?

36 inches from combustibles, all sides. Unless you have a shield with 1 inch airflow (between shield and wall) attached to walls, then 18 inch.

 

[Jan Pijpelink]

(broken link removed to https://southjersey.craigslist.org/for/d/wood-stove/6723166888.html)

 

[begreen]

36 inches from combustibles, all sides. Unless you have a shield with 1 inch airflow (between shield and wall) attached to walls, then 18 inch.

The shield must be non-combustible, the clearance reduction is then 12". 24" would be for a 3.5" thick masonry wall covering.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/nfpa-wall-clearance-reductions/