Is this normal? Please advise right in the middle of the install...

[tyvoki]

Hello.

Below is a picture of the inside of a Secure Temp Chimney ASHT+ 8" (ID). THe picture is of an 18" Straight pipe that is (twisted) LOCKED onto a 30 degree elbow.

You are looking at the bottom of the Elbow looking up through the pipe as though the smoke was venting properly. In other words The arrow s are pointing up towards the roof and attached properly.

The when I put these pipes together I assumed a seamless gap. As though running your fingers through the inside of the pipe and not feeling any gaps.

There is a 1/4 inch gap on the inside of the pipe where the elbow meets the straight pipe. . I catch my fingers on the gap.

NOT ONLY THAT!!, but all the pipe no matter what combination, straight pipe to straight pipe.. has little offsetting gaps on the inside...

Is this normal? Has anyone put this pipe together and noticed that?

I have attached pictures to try an explain. This is the inside of the pipe looking from the bottom up, as though the smoke will catch the uneven seams when passing through...

This PIPE is brand new, not an Internet purchase, all labeled with SECURITY CHIMNEY, bought from a DEALER in town...Locks together tigt on the outside...

 

[fossil]

If your stovepipe/chimney draws correctly, there will never be any leakage of flue gases (smoke) out of the pipe into the room. Instead, because of the way chimneys work, if there is any place where the pipe connections are not completely airtight, room air will be drawn into the flue gas stream. Smoke will not get "caught" in the gaps you've pointed out in the pictures. In order to make the pipe sections so that they will easily connect, the male ends are intentionally made a bit smaller in diameter than the female. If they lock together properly, then it's assembled correctly, and shouldn't be a problem. If you're still concerned about it, you can squish furnace cement into the gaps you see, but I really don't think it's necessary. Rick

 

[04074]

My metalbestos superpro T looks the same. I took it back to the dealer and she pulled another out of stock to compare, it was worse. This is their top of the line pipe? I'm not impressed...

 

[snowtime]

I do not know your chimney but most chimneys have "rough" spots. I mean look at single wall pipe its should be attached with the male end down for creosote. What that means is it has rough edges at every joint and a small opening to the room air. The smoke still stays in the pipe unless backdraft. What I am saying if the pipe closes and locks and has a good overlap it should be good to go.

 

[fossil]

We're not building the space shuttle here. Imagine looking up inside a conventional piece of crimped-end stovepipe. The tightness of the exterior is all that really matters, and even that fit isn't absolutely critical. If that doesn't look good enough to you, then use a bit of furnace cement to seal the gaps. If they (the manufacturers) tried to make slip-fit stovepipe with zero clearance between interior walls, you'd never be able to assemble it. Rick

 

[tyvoki]

I am really disappointed in this stuff. I can't believe that I paid over a grand on 22' of pipe and the seams won't line up. I am concerned that I will have troubl cleaning and chimney fires when creasote builds up in the space between the gaps... Am I over worrying about this?


PLUS When installing this, I have sealed the outer pipe (10" OD) with Metal (duct) tape to ensure proper seal (i.e. to hold one section tight while we lock another on top of it) Plus I wanted to ensure an AIR Tight seal.. I was also told that it helps when installing to keep the pipe locked into place while you and your buddy are installing it on he roof. ANYONE else ever do this? Is it overkill?

 

[Hogwildz]

Dunno bout that gap, but that pipe looks like its backwards.
The seams on the inside of the pipe, should be facing down. So if any creosote runs down the inside of the pipe, it runs back down into the stove, and not out all the joints in the pipe.

 

[tyvoki]

The seams are correct, if creasote would drip down, it would NOT drip into a seam and leak out the chimney. I flip the pipe over to show the gap as though you were looking UP through the pipe to the roof. If you point you finger up to the roof you would catch the seam. If you point down from atop the roof you would not see the seam.

 

[snowtime]

The pic is from the bottom. So that looks to me like its ok. You should see the overlap from the bottom view.

 

[Hogwildz]

Ok, my mistake. I get confused by photos sometimes LOL.
Any small gaps will get filled with ash & minor creosote, you should be fine.

 

[tyvoki]

My main concern was the size of the GAP, I mean DAMN a 1/4 inch? What the hell? I can stick my pinky between the two pipes.. I know its not the space shuttle but I just really want to be safe on this. So that's why I am asking you all..

Any comment on the Metal TAPE? Is that recommended? Is it a stupid idea?

 

[04074]

I am really disappointed in this stuff. I can't believe that I paid over a grand on 22' of pipe and the seams won't line up. I am concerned that I will have troubl cleaning and chimney fires when creasote builds up in the space between the gaps... Am I over worrying about this?


PLUS When installing this, I have sealed the outer pipe (10" OD) with Metal (duct) tape to ensure proper seal (i.e. to hold one section tight while we lock another on top of it) Plus I wanted to ensure an AIR Tight seal.. I was also told that it helps when installing to keep the pipe locked into place while you and your buddy are installing it on he roof. ANYONE else ever do this? Is it overkill?

Metalbestos has optional locking bands to clamp the sections together. And you need them. When you twist the sections together they just keep spinning

 

[tyvoki]

For clarity on my previous post, I have sealed the OUTER side of the Flue joints with METAL duct tape. (NOT the interior of the pipe where the large gap seams are).

 

[tyvoki]

I haven't seen any clamps for SECURE TEMP, I have there catalog but don't see anything like that.

I haven't had any trouble locking them as of yet, in fact the outer side of the chimney lines up very nice..

 

[tyvoki]

I heard Metalbestos was a nice system. Are you happy with it?

 

[04074]

I heard Metalbestos was a nice system. Are you happy with it?

I am just installing it now, so the jury is still out. But like you. I'm kind of shocked by the quality (lack of). And I paid $1500 for a 18' system. I thought I was buying the best...

I can look into the gap on my T and see the insulation between the inner and outer pipes. I know this ain't no space shuttle but come on...

 

[Hogwildz]

Sorry guys, but I have to say you make me feel glad I went with Simpson Dura Vent.

 

[KeithO]

I used Simpson DVL on my previous install and I thought the fitup was pretty poor also. It seem that most of what is made out there is pretty crappy. Considering how expensive this stuff is (DVL cost is at least as much $/ft as my class A) I think it is pretty pathetic. I have heard that the Excel pipe is better, but have not found a dealer anywhere near me yet. This time I for sure want a single piece of pipe from stove to chimney, not 4 24" sections like before (that just looks like crap with all the joints and screws and it does not go together straight either). I did think that the Simpson Class A was well made and fited together just like I thought it should.

Hello.

Below is a picture of the inside of a Secure Temp Chimney ASHT+ 8" (ID). THe picture is of an 18" Straight pipe that is (twisted) LOCKED onto a 30 degree elbow.

You are looking at the bottom of the Elbow looking up through the pipe as though the smoke was venting properly. In other words The arrow s are pointing up towards the roof and attached properly.

The when I put these pipes together I assumed a seamless gap. As though running your fingers through the inside of the pipe and not feeling any gaps.

There is a 1/4 inch gap on the inside of the pipe where the elbow meets the straight pipe. . I catch my fingers on the gap.

NOT ONLY THAT!!, but all the pipe no matter what combination, straight pipe to straight pipe.. has little offsetting gaps on the inside...

Is this normal? Has anyone put this pipe together and noticed that?

I have attached pictures to try an explain. This is the inside of the pipe looking from the bottom up, as though the smoke will catch the uneven seams when passing through...

This PIPE is brand new, not an Internet purchase, all labeled with SECURITY CHIMNEY, bought from a DEALER in town...Locks together tigt on the outside...

 

[tyvoki]

Anyone use METAL duct tape to seal the outside of the chimney?

 

[fossil]

I don't use any kind of tape at all to seal the joints on either my stovepipe or my chimney pipe. I imagine what you're calling "metal" tape is the adhesive-backed aluminum tape used extensively in HVAC application. It is not meant for high temperatures. Gas-fired water heater vent, OK...woodstove, not OK. You shouldn't need to tape the joints of either stovepipe or chimney pipe. Single wall stovepipe may have some non-airtight areas at the joints, if they bother you, then fill them with furnace cement. They're just gonna suck air anyway. Dim the room lights, shine a flashlight up into the pipe sections you're concerned about, and inspect the joint from the outside. See little or no light, good to go...see lots of light, futz with it for the best fit you can get (it's easy to get these things out of round, and it might take some practice), then use furnace cement to seal it up to your satisfaction. Class A chimney pipe should fasten together quite securely at the joints...if not, then perhaps you're not doing it correctly. The instruction manuals from the major manufacturers are available online. Rick

 

[tyvoki]

I am using double walled pipe. I was told you can touch the outside of this pipe with a fire going and not get burned. Is that true? Or am I getting advice from a Hack?

He suggested taping the joints with METAL (adhesive HVAC) tape to aid in the process of linking all the sections together when installing. He didn't say anytihng about removing it.

The brand of chimney is Secure Temp ASH 8"ID insulated 10" OD double walled pipe for a wood burning fireplace..

 

[fossil]

http://www.securitychimneys.com/pages/chimneys/index.asp?country=us