Is UL 103HT all the same rating?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

n6crv

Feeling the Heat
Hearth Supporter
Aug 5, 2007
332
Hillsdale Co. Michigan
Hello, to be safe with my chimney, I went and got 3 3' pieces of Double wall-insulated chimney. It saids "Safety certified to UL103HT (USA) / ULC S-604 & 610 (Canada) is this the correct chimney pipe for a wood stove? The chimney pipe is made by Supervent. Thanks for all you help.
Don
 
Thanks Shane for the reply. I installed it today. It was not to bad of a job. What I ended up doing was to remove the top 4' section from my old 8" triple wall chimney. Then took out the 8" from the lower section and installed the new 6" chimney in it's place. It is like having a attic shield just super heavy duty. I ended up with 5" clearance to anything that can burn and it would have to go thru 4 layers of pipe. From 2' above the roof it is all new chimney. On the top of the old chimney there was a cap that allowed the air to move thru the chimney and about 4" of pipe sticking out. I just removed the short piece of pipe and moved the cap down the the lower part. So the new chimney is supported and centered in the pipe. Now I should be ready for Winter. Unless anyone has a better way of doing the install.
Don
 
Sorry I had to remove some PM as my box was getting filled and just saw yours to me The other think I was having a hard time trying to figure out what you were asking.

UL 103 HT is the same as 2100 HT perfectly accceptable and proper to use.

Good luck and fill us in out your progress and details of how things went
 
N6CRV said:
Thanks Shane for the reply. I installed it today. It was not to bad of a job. What I ended up doing was to remove the top 4' section from my old 8" triple wall chimney. Then took out the 8" from the lower section and installed the new 6" chimney in it's place. It is like having a attic shield just super heavy duty. I ended up with 5" clearance to anything that can burn and it would have to go thru 4 layers of pipe. From 2' above the roof it is all new chimney. On the top of the old chimney there was a cap that allowed the air to move thru the chimney and about 4" of pipe sticking out. I just removed the short piece of pipe and moved the cap down the the lower part.

So the new chimney is supported and centered in the pipe. Don

Could you clarify that statement? You mention four layers of pipe. And then you mention the new 6" is "centered in the pipe". Did you put new 6" inside a bigger 8" pipe? Or what?

And the stove you have---was it tested for 6" chimney or 8" chimney?

BTB
 
Hello BTB, my old stove used 8" a Chimney. The new stoved uses 6", I did not want to just use an adapter from 8 to 6. The old chimney was a triple walled air cooled so it had a 8" stainless then about 1 1/2" then a galv. pipe the another 1 1/2" to the outside pipe. I took the center 8" piece out and put the new 6" double wall chimney in it's place. I still have the other two walls. So I now have a 6" stainless flue, insulation, 1" to stainless outer wall, 1 1/2" space a galv wall another 1 1/2" space then the outer wall. Then 2 1/2" space to the wood of the roof. That way I was able to use the old support box in the ceiling and the flashing on the roof and ended up with a BIG attic sheld.
Don
 
OK. Makes more sense to me now. So you have *lots* of clearance and additional "shields" from the new 6" flue to any combustibles.

Seems like this chimney ought to have a very good draw too.

BTB
 
Status
Not open for further replies.