It begins. Froling +1000 gallons of storage

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

chew72

Burning Hunk
Oct 27, 2009
119
NS, Canada
The tanks kick off the install.
808c8284f52860438a41ca0412188a10.jpg


Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: hobbyheater
In case anyone was wondering this is how you install a 10-foot tank vertically with 9 ft of ceiling space.
d7c90a17e2623f51174038fce2759490.jpg


Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk
Nhtreehouse a member here did just what your doing two years ago with a 1000 gal tank. I’m sure you can find his posts and pics.
 
  • Like
Reactions: hobbyheater
Lots of project fun to follow! I'm about 98% finished with my Attack DPXL45 + 2-500 gallon propane tank storage install.
My tanks were used scrap units and as such they required extra labor - They were cheap ($200 each) but required my labor to make them acceptable for use (proper fittings, cutting an access to properly clean inside) All I can say is if you weld in any additional fittings - pressure check many times and then do it again. Also sealing threaded fittings through out the system - I used multiple wraps of monster blue Teflon tape and then yellow Rectorseal #5 - not good enough and had several fittings leak. Spend the money on some locktite products - my difficult fittings were finally sealed with Loctite 55 and then Locktite aerobic thread sealant #565.
The 55 string is a bit unusual to use but it really sealed up those difficult fittings and allows for a bit of fitting repositioning if required.

Good luck!
 
I would add to that, by saying make extra extra sure you really NEED extra fittings/ports, before you make new holes in your tanks. IMO you only really need one in & one out, most times. I also had issues getting the welds water & pressure tight. Mainly because I took fittings to the welder that I thought were steel but were cast. It was a mix on the supplier shelf, and I didn't know that.

I also had a couple of trouble drips after I got everything up & running. One little jug of seal all stuff fixed those, with no issues since.
 
  • Like
Reactions: hobbyheater
Thanks for the advice. I am only adding two fittings to each. One in the top one in the bottom. The rest will be plugged except one fitting was damaged so I'll have that one capped.

The welder doing the work is a ticketed pressure welder and I've seen his work.

One question though. Any easy way to tell forged fittings from cast? I ordered them from McMaster carr and I'm not sure. If I look for photos online they look the same but I assume it's just a stock photo and not the fitting itself.

Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk
 
Well it's been a busy year! Thought Id pop back on here and keep the updates coming. I'll start with a few more photos as everyone enjoys photos.

One tank in just like that. (Feb 2020)
IMG_20191214_140527178.jpg

Two tank.
IMG_20200104_090805300.jpg
 
Last edited:
And finally what it currently looks like. I insulated the tanks with 4" of Roxul insulation.

PXL_20201101_160534159.jpg

Its a work in progress but I'm an electrician who does automation and control. This is a view of the boiler screen on the HMI I have in the house. The graph is the Flue temp
PXL_20201101_160659954.jpg
 
All I can say is if you weld in any additional fittings - pressure check many times and then do it again. Also sealing threaded fittings through out the system - I used multiple wraps of monster blue Teflon tape and then yellow Rectorseal #5 - not good enough and had several fittings leak. Spend the money on some locktite products - my difficult fittings were finally sealed with Loctite 55 and then Locktite aerobic thread sealant #565.
I was taught about using Hemp when i did my build,i did comparisons with two other procedures when i built my storage tanks,I used just pipe dope on a 1/3,pipe dope and teflon on 1/3 and hemp on the other 1/3Tested my tanks to 80 PSI,i tested my complete system at 80PSI when i was done.
Anyhow on my tank test the only fitting that didnt leak were the hemp ones,tape and dope some would stop with more torgue on the fittings,there were 3 with just tape that would not seal.
When i was finished my system,zero hemp joints leaked,and 2 soldered ones did leak fro recycled fittings.90 % of my pipe and fittings were recycled
 
I was taught about using Hemp when i did my build,i did comparisons with two other procedures when i built my storage tanks,I used just pipe dope on a 1/3,pipe dope and teflon on 1/3 and hemp on the other 1/3Tested my tanks to 80 PSI,i tested my complete system at 80PSI when i was done.
Anyhow on my tank test the only fitting that didnt leak were the hemp ones,tape and dope some would stop with more torgue on the fittings,there were 3 with just tape that would not seal.
When i was finished my system,zero hemp joints leaked,and 2 soldered ones did leak fro recycled fittings.90 % of my pipe and fittings were recycled
I used Teflon myself. I've done some plumbing in the past. 3 wraps of Teflon and a little extra crank on every fitting, I didn't have any leaks. I did however have one copper fitting leak. It was new but had a bit of green inside where it must have gotten wet. I cleaned it ok'ish and it leaked I had to pull it apart and do a good job cleaning down to all new copper. Live and learn
 
I was taught about using Hemp when i did my build,i did comparisons with two other procedures when i built my storage tanks,I used just pipe dope on a 1/3,pipe dope and teflon on 1/3 and hemp on the other 1/3Tested my tanks to 80 PSI,i tested my complete system at 80PSI when i was done.
Anyhow on my tank test the only fitting that didnt leak were the hemp ones,tape and dope some would stop with more torgue on the fittings,there were 3 with just tape that would not seal.
When i was finished my system,zero hemp joints leaked,and 2 soldered ones did leak fro recycled fittings.90 % of my pipe and fittings were recycled

My latest favorite products are the Loctite 55 sealing thread with Locktite 577. The 577 is similar to the 565 but sets up firmer where as the 565 stays fairly soft. I also apply most of the 577 to the external threads but also just a little on the internal. No leaks ever when I do this even when there is a mix of pipe thread styles (british or euro vs US pipe thread? I don't know but there seems to be a slight difference)
The 577 also seems to seal up when you have those fittings that bottom out before the threads themselves get tight. I also tend to find the 55 thread is not always necessary on fitting under ~1".
 
This winter has been good so far. I've been burning poorly seasoned (free) 70% soft and 30% Hardwood. I make a fire at 5pm reload the boiler 3hrs later and that seems to carry me to then next day down to -5c. Colder and I reload a 3rd time. In hindsight I should have gone with a 50kw unit but at the time I only had access to one 300gallon tank not two 500's.

Down the road I hope to have my wood pile closer and under a roof. It's only covered by tarps currently. Also if this winter is any sign of thinks to come the 30kw will prove to be the right choice anyway. That or if I ever get to burning exclusively hardwood.
 
The legs have been installed.
f84754bd6832c96be067a9ad051bbbe0.jpg


Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk
Howdy @chew72, Sorry to revive an old thread, but I was wondering what size angle iron and base plates you used for those good looking legs :)

I'm almost ready to do the same thing with some smaller tanks that will be heated by a Froling S3. Hopefully it will come out as nicely as your install and all the other great examples posted here.

Thanks!
 
The angle is 3". I'll have to check if it's 3/16 or 1/4. And if I recall they are each welded with 4, 4" welds. I had a welder friend weld it. So if your looking at them they are welded on both sides at the top for 4" then a 4-6" gap then another 4" weld. We also noched the angle over the tank weld so it lays flat.

The feet are 8"x8" - 1/4" plate I made them that big as the tanks sit on Styrofoam as a thermal break.

Also I think having 16 inches of vertical weld on each leg was double what the calculated amount of weld needed to be to support the weight.
 
  • Like
Reactions: OffGridICF
The angle is 3". I'll have to check if it's 3/16 or 1/4. And if I recall they are each welded with 4, 4" welds. I had a welder friend weld it. So if your looking at them they are welded on both sides at the top for 4" then a 4-6" gap then another 4" weld. We also noched the angle over the tank weld so it lays flat.

The feet are 8"x8" - 1/4" plate I made them that big as the tanks sit on Styrofoam as a thermal break.

Also I think having 16 inches of vertical weld on each leg was double what the calculated amount of weld needed to be to support the weight.
Thanks for the detailed info! The local propane dealer fixed me up with 3x 192 gallon tanks and a 250 gallon tank so your design will provide plenty of margin. There will be more heat loss due to surface area, but the price was really right :) I hope to get them power washed before it gets too cold and then it will be time for legs and extra fittings.

The boiler and storage will go in an isolated mechanical room where the slab itself is sitting on Styrofoam with ICF walls that provide more Styrofoam at the slab edges. Minimizing heat transfer to the room is going to be a big issue so the idea of a Styrofoam thermal break is very interesting.