Jonsered 2172

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The 372 can run chisel. The new replacement size can’t. Although I’m not exactly sure weight/size would be comparison. The smallest newer model is the 562 and I probably should have tried a shorter bar on it before I got rid of it. I might end up going back to stihl 26 size. Haven’t decided
I don't understand what you are saying. I don't know if there are full chisel picco/picco micro loops, but there are definitely full chisel loops available for .325, 3/8, and .404 pitches. The 3/8 picco and 1/4 picco micro pitch chains are only found on small saws, or specialty ripping chain for larger saws, which are also not full chisel.

The new Stihl "26" sized saw uses .325 if I remember correctly, same as a 346xp or the new 550xp. I have two or three full chisel .325 .050 16" loops for my dead 346xp.


Husqvarna makes a 562xp, 565, 572xp, and 575xp, and they probably all come with a full chisel non safety chain.
 
It’s what they told me at madsens when I went down to pick up a new topping saw. They are also sold out of the stihl 26’s till February. I contemplated buying one of those 350$ Oregon round grinders but bob said the round chain will last longer but won’t cut as fast as chisel which is what I’ve always been told. So, I’ve been keeping my eyes open for a good 372 and now a johnsered!
 
The only difference in adjusting for .325 full chisel is the grinding stone. The other angles are all the same. You probably won't find a full chisel loop that will work on a top handle saw, but otherwise it's pretty easy to get what you need. For cross cutting I only use full chisel on my 460 and the 346 when it ran.

I'm also pretty sure you can buy a 372xp x-Torque new from a Husqvarna dealer.
 
Furthermore you could just convert a 26 or 260 or whatever it's called now to a 3/8 pitch by swapping the drive sprocket and bar. My 346xp came to me (used) with a 3/8 sprocket and I couldn't figure out why I coudln't get my .325 loops to fit.
 
Furthermore you could just convert a 26 or 260 or whatever it's called now to a 3/8 pitch by swapping the drive sprocket and bar. My 346xp came to me (used) with a 3/8 sprocket and I couldn't figure out why I coudln't get my .325 loops to fit.
I have a husqvarna 550xp and I switched it over to 3/8 18". It has no problem running that chain. I did a muffler model and it pulls it just fine. I have only used a semi chisel chain so far. My next chain will be a skip tooth chisel.
 
I have a husqvarna 550xp and I switched it over to 3/8 18". It has no problem running that chain. I did a muffler model and it pulls it just fine. I have only used a semi chisel chain so far. My next chain will be a skip tooth chisel.
I don't think you will see an advantage going skip tooth in that length, but I've been wrong before.
 
It’s odd they said it wasn’t possible. Them boys have been at it for a while
Maybe they were talking about the smaller Stihl saws that wear 3/8 LP/picco loops, in which case there are no full chisel cutter equipped loops available, to my knowledge. The 026 and MS260 pro can be converted the 3/8 or you can just sharpen the .325 full chisel the same as you would 3/8, but swap out the grinding wheel/stone.
 
I have a husqvarna 550xp and I switched it over to 3/8 18". It has no problem running that chain. I did a muffler model and it pulls it just fine. I have only used a semi chisel chain so far. My next chain will be a skip tooth chisel.
That’s what I wanted to do . They said they change the bar studs so that’s not possible anymore. I think bob said the 550 was about the same as the 260. I’ve got time , nothing pressing, so I may look around for a dealer still sporting a 372. Or even a johnsered maybe. Madsens didn’t have any 372’s.
 
Maybe they were talking about the smaller Stihl saws that wear 3/8 LP/picco loops, in which case there are no full chisel cutter equipped loops available, to my knowledge. The 026 and MS260 pro can be converted the 3/8 or you can just sharpen the .325 full chisel the same as you would 3/8, but swap out the grinding wheel/stone.
I hadn’t thought about swapping the stone. Good call! I don’t really have to when going from 3/8’s to 404 . But if they end up forcing a guy to .325 that’s a really good idea
 
That’s what I wanted to do . They said they change the bar studs so that’s not possible anymore. I think bob said the 550 was about the same as the 260. I’ve got time , nothing pressing, so I may look around for a dealer still sporting a 372. Or even a johnsered maybe. Madsens didn’t have any 372’s.

I think the small Stihls are all single bar stud, so not really possible to run a 3/8 chain and you really wouldn't want to anyway. For the MS250 and 260 pro you can totally go to full 3/8, but I prefer .325 if possible. You can't really go wrong between the 260 and 550xp, but those are better for smaller, sub 18" trees. 372xp is a torque monster and dead reliable, good for larger wood but overkill for young forests.
 
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I think the small Stihls are all single bar stud, so not really possible to run a 3/8 chain and you really wouldn't want to anyway. For the MS250 and 260 pro you can totally go to full 3/8, but I prefer .325 if possible. You can't really go wrong between the 260 and 550xp, but those are better for smaller, sub 18" trees. 372xp is a torque monster and dead reliable, good for larger wood but overkill for young forests.
I prefer the older 372 to the newer saws for the low end torque. When I’m firewooding down, if the saw woods up in the cut before it’s through it’s a pita. Lot bigger trees here, often end up with a bigger saw as I come down before I can get to a height so I can dump the stob.
 
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It should be salvageable. Takes a little elbow grease and sandpaper,but well worth the time.
The cylinder is definitely fine. I could have gotten by with just a piston and rings. But he wanted to do a whole top end. So I have a good cylinder for a 2172 that needs a piston and rings and I also have a good top end for a 2156t 357xp. Just need to find some parts saws.
 
I would be hesitant on putting a fresh top end on a low end with that many miles on it but live and learn
I checked the crank bearing for any play and they were still tight.