Jotul Draft Lever Sticking

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bigealta

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
May 22, 2010
2,374
Utah & NJ
I saw some people looking to fix sticking draft levers on Jotuls. Here i take apart the lever and slider to show the part, how they work, and how to fix. This is in my Jotul f400.

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Reactions: Todd
Nice instructions. A tip: Vacuum the doghouse cover first so that ash does not get down there. Lubricate the area where plate slides with graphite powder. It slides much easier then. Note that the two little holes on the doghouse are the boost air ports. The bulk of the air heads up to the air wash to keep that big door glass clear.

Years ago someone actually polished the slider plate and the bed it sits on. He reported that it worked like butter after that.
 
Nice instructions. A tip: Lubricate the area where plate slides with graphite powder. It slides much easier then. Note that the two little holes on the doghouse are the boost air ports. The bulk of the air heads up to the air wash to keep that big door glass clear.

Years ago someone actually polished the slider plate and the bed it sits on. He reported that it worked like butter after that.
Thanks i should have been more clear about those boost air holes, i showed them to makes sure they don't get blocked. My slider has always slid very easy until this year and it was the bolt holding the lever that was making it sticky. With that bolt loosened just a bit it slides great. I do like the polishing idea, might try that just for fun!
 
Thanks i should have been more clear about those boost air holes, i showed them to makes sure they don't get blocked. My slider has always slid very easy until this year and it was the bolt holding the lever that was making it sticky. With that bolt loosened just a bit it slides great. I do like the polishing idea, might try that just for fun!
It's nice that it's worked well so far. Our 2006 F400's slider started sticking after just a few months.
 
I just added Subtitles to describe the boost air, air wash, and secondary air. Unfortunately you have to have subtitles enabled to see them in the video.
 
good video. I noticed a small crack right in the area of the lever when you were putting the lubricant in. Wasn’t sure if you were aware.
 
good video. I noticed a small crack right in the area of the lever when you were putting the lubricant in. Wasn’t sure if you were aware.
Yes good eye, i saw that too on the playback, Had me worried but turns out it's just a casting flaw. I cleaned it out and it's not cracked, just a "Divot" in the casting. Phew!
 
Yearley when I do my stove and chimney cleandown. I lube the sliding piece, with P + B dry lube. Graphite works well to. I don't have any issue with the lever arm bolt being to tight. And I'm not sure it was tight, Just changed the way it moves is the slide.
The issue is, as you can see in the video the plate trying to move front to back as it slides east and west. The arm needs to slide in the plate front to back. That's the issue that causes it to not slide smoothly without a lot of lube. I used to have to clean and lube it more often during the season. That was when we used the front door. But for many years now we don't open the front, as the ash goes everywhere and it must get some into the slide. I like the idea of polishing the surfaces smooth, as they are rough castings. Maybe someday when I have nothing else to do.

Yes those two holes are the maximum air flow limit into the stove with the damper slide fully open. Mine is a similar dog house and has 3 holes facing the wood . Of course there is the secondary air into the top burn tubes, that comes up the back of the stove.