Jotul Enamel

[WarminAK]

We have a new F600 CB (installed last week)- So far it is a heating machine, still working on getting long burns but is far superior than our 1984 RSF steel stove. So my question is: The owner's manual states that Jotul enamel can be damaged by touching metal such as kettles, pots, etc. We typically keep a fan and kettle on the top of our stove for air circulation and humidity. Is the primary concern scratching the enamel, or is some crazy reaction going to occur when hot enamel touches another metal object?

On another topic as I am new to Jotul stoves, but grew up with VC stoves: Are these truly "Air Tight"? And if so, as I turn down the air intake lever, shouldn't it significantly/totally decrease the air entering the burn box? Still seems like plenty is coming in, either through small entries or my external air kit, reducing burn times.

Not to over stay my welcome, but: Does getting the stove up to temperatures within the 400-600 range increase burn times because the stove is now efficiently operating or would length of burn time be the same at reduced temps (<300).

Thanks in advance for the help. In the meantime, I'm going to sit and watch the beautiful glow...

 

[Detector$]

The air control only adjusts the airflow to the front of the fire through the hood inside the door. The secondary combustion air is unrestricted through the 4" opening at the rear/bottom of the stove (where your O.A.K. hooks up).

 

[begreen]

EPA stoves are tightly sealed combustion chambers, but the air can not be 100% shut off or the stove would smolder and increase emissions.

The enamel on Jotul stoves is excellent. In particular, the blue-black and ivory enamel finishes are quite tough. If you don't drag heavy pots across the surface, there's no reason why you can have a kettle or fan on them. We did on all of our Jotul's and the finish never was affected by them.

The burn cycle for these stoves is different from the older pre-EPA stoves. The stove top temp will rise with a fresh load of wood, after the air supply is reduced. This is secondary burning during which the stove top temp can get to 500-700 degrees. Then with the air further reduced, the stove will gradually burn up the fuel and the heat output will become lower. When there is only a bed of coals remaining, open the air, refill, and repeat.

 

[Hanko]

who da boo tah

 

[webby3650]

I struggled with this a little bit at first. With my old Jotul 118 and my 606 I could put out the fire if I closed the air all the way off. The air won't shut off with my 500. After some experimenting I found the best way to run MY stove is to load it with the air all the way open, after it's up to temp. I close the air all the way. This only works with well seasoned wood.

 

[chad3]

Wish I had picked up the enamel instead of the flat black. My old 118 was great, stayed in very good shape with a pot on it, etc. My new 500 Oslo has rust on it already. Be glad you have any enamel.
Chad

 

[colebrookman]

Wish I had picked up the enamel instead of the flat black. My old 118 was great, stayed in very good shape with a pot on it, etc. My new 500 Oslo has rust on it already. Be glad you have any enamel.
Chad

Yup mine's the same way after keeping a pot of water on it. I should have spent the extra $$ but who knew?? Runs just as good. Be safe.
Ed

 

[koavt]

I have the F600 CB in the green enamel. No problem putting a kettle or pot on the top. I keep a humidifier on the top, and have never had an issue. Just be careful not slide it across the surface, this would most likely produce some scratches. Throttling the air intake down does indeed increase your burn time. However; I would not go below 300 if possible. To much creosote formation. With regards to adjusting the lever I find that it takes about 5-10 minutes to see any effect in the fire box. I try to gradually make changes in the lever position until I reach the desired burn.

 

[InTheRockies]

Have those of you with rust stains used trivets? I'm using a cast-iron and marble trivet under the enamel coffee pot I keep on top of the stove. So far so good--I didn't want rust stains on the new stove so decided I needed the trivet between the stove and the coffee pot, looks nice too.

 

[begreen]

We didn't have them on the Jotul. Always make sure the bottom of the pot or kettle is dry before setting down on the stove and it shouldn't be an issue. If you do get an inadvertent stain, wipe it off right away.

As for trivets, well yes, now we have two massive trivets, built in. They work great.

 

[Hanko]

I have the F600 CB in the green enamel. No problem putting a kettle or pot on the top. I keep a humidifier on the top, and have never had an issue. Just be careful not slide it across the surface, this would most likely produce some scratches. Throttling the air intake down does indeed increase your burn time. However; I would not go below 300 if possible. To much creosote formation. With regards to adjusting the lever I find that it takes about 5-10 minutes to see any effect in the fire box. I try to gradually make changes in the lever position until I reach the desired burn.

I was told they discontinued the green a few years back. I really wanted the green, had to settle for brown

 

[downeast]

We have a new F600 CB (installed last week)- The owner's manual states that Jotul enamel can be damaged by touching metal such as kettles, pots, etc. We typically keep a fan and kettle on the top of our stove for air circulation and humidity. Is the primary concern scratching the enamel, or is some crazy reaction going to occur when hot enamel touches another metal object?
Are these truly "Air Tight"? And if so, as I turn down the air intake lever, shouldn't it significantly/totally decrease the air entering the burn box? Still seems like plenty is coming in, either through small entries or my external air kit, reducing burn times.
Not to over stay my welcome, but: Does getting the stove up to temperatures within the 400-600 range increase burn times because the stove is now efficiently operating or would length of burn time be the same at reduced temps (<300)....

The enamel, really a porcelain baked finish can be damaged if scratched to the base cast iron. Light scratches can be touched up with the offical Jotul paint, but it will still look like a repair. The porcelain can be chipped by hitting it with metal or other hard material ( not heads ). We got an unfinished cast top for the Oslo that Jotul discontinued. Trivets on top of the porcelain can also scratch. You can get a piece of soapstone or granite for the stove top to protect the finish.

Air control. The EPA non catalytic air controls are EPA regulated to not allow too much air, or too little air; the air cannot be shut down like our older Jotuls - 118 or 602, or like the cat stoves ( the VC Encore ) with a near complete shut down of primary air, not secondary air.
The EPA non cat stoves have what we like to call Mommie Air: you don't shut it way down , or way up. Mommie knows best.

P.S. Yes, the stove is "air tight" IF you could shut off the primary air.

 

[EDGE]

How about Corningware and Pyrex? I am just getting acquainted with my new F 400 with an enamel finish, and I read the caveat in the instructions about avoiding contact between the enamel and metal objects, such as pots and kettles. But I am itching to try to use the stove to do some basic cooking--- the only kind I am capable of. I understand that it is the baked paint that we are trying to protect, and that a heavy cast-iron pot or pan slid around on the top would be pretty abrasive. But it seems to me that Corningware, handled carefully, might not do much damage to the enamel. Also, I have been thinking that if I wanted to add a little humidity to the air, I might try setting a Pyrex cup full of water on the top of the stove, instead of a kettle. I do know that glass is harder than steel, but it still seems to me that these items might cause less damage.

 

[pgmarrone]

to all out there i have just purchased a Jotul f600 ivory enamel. i am on my fifth fire but i cant seem to keep the temperature to stay above 400 with the side door closed. i find myself leaving the side door open a crack and that increases the temperature again. i am a novice but I have followed the manual to the tee and it is increasingly frustrating. Can anyone out there maybe give me some ideas to ccorrect my problem

Thank you

 

[johnnywarm]

to all out there i have just purchased a Jotul f600 ivory enamel. i am on my fifth fire but i cant seem to keep the temperature to stay above 400 with the side door closed. i find myself leaving the side door open a crack and that increases the temperature again. i am a novice but I have followed the manual to the tee and it is increasingly frustrating. Can anyone out there maybe give me some ideas to ccorrect my problem

Thank you

Nice stove :coolsmile: how seasoned is your wood??

 

[pgmarrone]

supposedly from july it is not burning well

 

[johnnywarm]

supposedly from july it is not burning well

We here in ct had a very wet humid summer.that could be it.see if you can get some dry wood to see if thats it.

 

[pgmarrone]

do you have a side door on your model and if so do you leave it open a crack it seems to work better.
thanks for your help

 

[TheFlame]

do you have a side door on your model and if so do you leave it open a crack it seems to work better.
thanks for your help

Be careful when burning that stove with the side door or ashpan door open. It will cause the stove to heat unevenly and will cause cracking of the cast iron. A little bit to get it started is one thing, but do not burn it for any longer than a few minutes with either of the doors open. Once it is heated up it is not really an issue, but from cold you have to be extremely careful.

 

[corpseal]

If you are so inclined, the air control lever can likely be bent to allow complete closure of the air, yet still allow complete opening also. I did this on my Castine. Access was via 2 bolts and removal of the cover over the air access plenum. My logic was that I would be able to shut off air to any possible chimney fire. This has worked fine for me for the last 6 years.