Jotul f3cb - Does this sound right?

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Linesider

Member
Jun 3, 2008
48
Southern CT
Looking for some opinions on the new install of my Jotul F3cb. I bought the stove in 2003 and had it in my old house, new owner didn't want the stove and I was glad to keep it. It was recently installed in my new home, after receiving some helpful advise from members on this forum.

I am concerned that I may now have too much draft, the new install runs through a two story house, straight up out the roof with only one bend. Approximately 25-30, prefab pipe chimney. Burning dry red oak, that has been seasoned for two years, the stove burns easily at 500-600, with the air flow closed all the way. The flames are still present moving fairly slow, but not as slow as they use to be in the old house. The manual calls for a 400-600 degree burn and I measure the temp directly from the stove top. The old chimney was 15-18 feet, single story house one bend also straight through the house. When I closed the air flow all the way down, the fire would smolder out, so I would always have to pop it back open 1/16 of an inch, and I would have a nice slow burn.

I'm still getting around a 4 hour burn with the new install. The manual says max seven, but I only really got five at the old house. I also admit that I never changed the gaskets since 2003, really only learned how important that is on the site here. I will be doing that soon. I did the dollar bill test and on the left side near the handle, the bill pulled out with a little resistance. On the hinged side, the bill did not move. I put some smoke around the outside of the door and it went straight past the door to the air intake. I could also hear the air intake whistling. Should I be considering a damper? Just looking for some other opinions on the operation and anyone else's experience with this stove.
 
There's no harm in adding a stack damper. It will give you a bit more control. I had one on our F3CB with a shorter stack and liked it. Just remember to open the damper before opening the stove door or you'll get a snootful of smoke. It might be good to do a gasket replacement on the door and ashpan door, 5 years is good service. Do a dollar bill test all the way around to see how they are doing.
 
Does anyone know if a 3/8 gasket is okay to use on the door? Jotul calls for 11/32? I can't find that anywhere, or does anyone have a link to an online store? Thanks
 
Yes, I believe it is ok. My dealer used one (I believe a 3/8") on my door (jotul 118 black bear) and it worked. It was a bit tight at first, but settled in just fine.
 
Linesider, 3/8 is .375 11/32 is .343 your talking .030 or about 1/32 in difference. i think 3/8 will work
 
jetmech said:
Linesider, 3/8 is .375 11/32 is .343 your talking .030 or about 1/32 in difference. i think 3/8 will work

Yes, the extra 1/32 may make for better seal, less air entry, and longer seal life. Maybe, a bit tighter closing until it is compressed.

Go for it.
 
Also check the ash door gasket. Mine needed changing at third season.
 
Thanks for the recommendations, getting on it this week. I ended up buying a new thermostat just in case, and it appears the old one worn out showing temps 100 degrees, hotter. I still need to do the gaskets though. Thanks again.
 
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