Jotul F45 Greenville stove burning hot #2

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here

Louboozu

New Member
Mar 28, 2022
7
Illinois
Mod Edit: Moved to new thread

I’ve setup my new EPA 2020 Jotul F45 Greenville and have burned it for a little over a week now. I don’t feel as if I have control over it and it’s hard to turn down the fire and control the temperature. I am wondering if it’s burning too hot and I am getting an over fire.

I have 17’ of pipe, burning seasoned oak and have 2 thermometers side by side on the top of the stove in the location the owners manual says. The thermometers do not agree with each other. They cross points at 400° and that’s it. I can’t put the thermometer on the pipe because I have double wall and really do not want to drill into it for the probe thermometer.

I did the dollar bill test on the door seal and it passed. I pack the stove with 8 or 9 prices of oak and start the fire with the top down method. I leave the door cracked until the fire is established, then close the door and start slowing tapering down the air intake over the course of 10-15 minutes.
Once the thermometer on top of the fire box says 300° I close off the air intake completely.

That’s when it really doesn’t do much and acts like the air intake is still about 50% open. The fire keeps building and I’m not really getting the secondary burn at the top with the dancing flames. I did check and yes, the metal plate does slide all the way closed on the bottom of the stove for the air intake. The temperature keeps rising and before I know it all the wood is on fire in the box. The Rutland thermometer says 675+ when it maxes out, maybe close to 700. The cheap no brand name thermometer says 800-900.

Now the owners manual doesn’t state a max operating temperature, it just says if any part of the stove starts glowing, then you have an over fire. While nothing has started glowing, I feel 600+ degrees is too hot and an over fire.

I’ve read on here and tried to use aluminum foil in the two holes behind the air adjustment but it didn’t help as much as I thought it should.

So far the only way I’ve found the way to keep the temperature down in the 400’s is to only put 2-3 pieces of wood in at one time.

Is there any other way I can control the temperature better and dial the air back?

Thanks for any help.
Exact same situation here!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
1000 degrees. Chimney is 5 feet above roof
This needs it's own thread. It sounds like the systems are not the same. The other poster has 17' total flue system height and no probe is installed. They don't know the flue temps.

Moving to new thread to reduce confusion.
 
@Louboozu, lets start from scratch. Describe the flue system. How tall is the flue system on this stove from stove top to chimney cap? Is it all 6"? Straight up through the house or up and then 90º turn to a thimble on an exterior chimney?

Fuel: What type firewood is being burned? How thick are the splits? How is the wood being loaded E/W or N/S?

Describe how the stove is being started. How quickly is the air being turned down and at what flue temperature?