Jotul F500 V3 issues/questions

[CarlF]

We just got a new F500 V3 installed last month, and I've had a few issues so far:

1. The manual specifies 3 break-in burns, but it being my first time firing it I totally missed the mark. By the time I got the fire stabilized the temp had soared past the 300 degree target to 800 where is stayed for more than an hour before it finally started to come down. Have I damaged our new stove?
2. The blower has an "auto" setting, but it doesn't seem to work. It's always on.
3. The manual says not to overfill the stove with wood and to use a 3-log fire, but that only seems to last an hour or 2 (I haven't timed it yet) before it needs more fuel, even it I have the air control set closed or very close to it. I was really hoping this $$$ stove would be able to run through the night, so should I fill it with wood for the overnight, or did we spend all this money for a decorative piece?

Thanks!
Carl

 

[begreen]

Was the temperature reading on the catalyst thermometer or the stove top itself? If the cat thermometer, the stove is fine.

After the break-in fires you will be able to load more wood. Avoid criss-crossing the wood. Pack it tightly with large splits using smaller ones to fill the gaps. This may be more like 6-8 pieces of wood depending on the thickness.

It sounds like the stove has a defective thermostatic snap switch. Either that or it was mis-wired. The dealer should take care of this.

 

[CarlF]

Sounds like I'm good then (except for the switch) - thanks!

 

[bladeofanduril]

I have the blower on mine and always have it set to auto. It turns itself on when the stove reaches a certain temp, and turns itself off when the stove cools below whatever the threshold temp is. It does not modulate fan speed or anything like that. But yea, if it's just on all the time either the thermostatic switch is bad or something is miswired.

Regarding overnight burns... As @begreen said, you want to pack it tightly with parallel splits of wood minimizing airspace between them as much as possible. I get a good hot bed of coals going, rake them to the front of the stove (where the primary air outlet is), and pack wood from the back forward. I let it run for a bit to get a ripping fire going and the cat up to about 1000F, and then turn the air down. After a minute or two you should have hazy flames in the firebox and coming out of the air holes in the upper baffle. Doing this, I still have enough hot embers in the back of the firebox 10-12 hours later to restart the fire, though heat output does drop off well before that. A big factor will be how much space you are heating, how well insulated is it, and how cold it is outside.

Something else to note on this stove... there are two holes - one on each side - of the ash tray compartment that allow some extra air in and up through the grate. This was probably done to increase burn efficiency, but likely reduces burn time a bit as well. Some folks on here have used magnets to cover the holes. Personally, I let the ashpan fill up which seals off the ash pan compartment (I just shovel ash out through the stove door). I did this to negate those two holes, but also because I was noting creosote build-up down there, particularly on the inside of the ash compartment door.

Keep a close eye on your cat. There have been multiple reports on the forum of those failing. Mine failed after the first season (became deformed on the right side) and I found that it had clogged on the back(!) side where I could not see it. Now as part of my cleaning routine I'm using canned air to blow through the cat. I may pull the top-plate half way through the season to visually check it. Basically just keep a close eye on it for any sort of deformation as it's an indicator that something isn't right.

Enjoy your new stove!!

 

[CarlF]

Hey, a couple more minor issues (I think/hope):

1. There's a big difference in the amount of effort needed to latch the 2 doors. The side door, which we use for loading because we don't have enough hearth in front, latches very easily; the front door nearly takes 2 hands. Is there an adjustment for the tension? I didn't see one. This has been the case from brand new, so it's not that one wore in.
2. The rear heat shield buzzes occasionally. It may be quiet for hours and then start and stop after various durations. I assume a screw that secures it is loose, but I don't have good access to the back of the stove. Has anyone dealt with this before?

Thanks!
Carl

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Will a stubby screwdriver get you back behind the stove? A quarter inch socket can hold a screwdriver bit also.

 

[bladeofanduril]

Hey, a couple more minor issues (I think/hope):

1. There's a big difference in the amount of effort needed to latch the 2 doors. The side door, which we use for loading because we don't have enough hearth in front, latches very easily; the front door nearly takes 2 hands. Is there an adjustment for the tension? I didn't see one. This has been the case from brand new, so it's not that one wore in.
2. The rear heat shield buzzes occasionally. It may be quiet for hours and then start and stop after various durations. I assume a screw that secures it is loose, but I don't have good access to the back of the stove. Has anyone dealt with this before?

Thanks!
Carl

The doors on mine are the same - the side door, which is used most, is easy to latch. The front door is more difficult. I'm hesitant to try adjusting them as a good seal is more important to me than ease of latching/unlatching. As long as both pass the "dollar bill test", that's good enough for me.

I installed the heatshield and blower on mine, and when I did that I remember having to press on the metal a bit in some places to get it in firm contact with the stove so that it wouldn't rattle. I haven't had any issues since that since installing the stove.