So if the draft intake is the round hole at the bottom center rear and I put a small fan under it and blow air into the draft hole the fire should kick up really good correct? If so mine does not.
Jotul F600 not getting air?
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That's the air intake. Force feeding it with a fan not a great idea.
The chimney is the engine of the stove. It's what creates draft. What is the stove venting into?
Im trying to determine if the draft channel from the rear is open all the way to the front draft holes. It does not seem like we get alot of change from draft closed to draft open. We have a 6" collar 5½ long to 6" El to 6" piece 24" long thru the thimble to 8" flue stack which ends about a foot above the peak. The flue is terracotta surrounded by masonary bocks. Center of thimble thru the wall is 40" with about ½ pitch in the 19" run to the wall from the end of the el. Thanks.
Most likely the air channels are open. It's very rare for them to become obstructed. Much more typical is weak draft for some reason.
Is the chimney lined with masonry or is this a metal chimney system? Can you post some pictures of the stove with stove pipe and of the chimney?
Is the chimney lined with masonry or is this a metal chimney system? Can you post some pictures of the stove with stove pipe and of the chimney?
Moved the question to its own thread. It's a different question than the other posting.
I guess another way for clarification is. Open side side door load up, get good fire going. Close the door, draft control full open. In a couple minutes flames die out. But does not extinguish. Load up at night 930 still have coals at 6am. Is this how it's designed to operate? I was thinking with full open draft we would have flames to watch. Thanks.
Years ago I had an outdoor block chimney like that. They take quite a bit of time to heat up and establish a good draft. You may have to burn hotter for longer to keep the chimney warm before turning down. Also as Crab stated check the clean out. How dry is your firewood?
joop and Todd nailed it. Exterior chimneys can be tuff. Especially with Northern exposure.
I'd really question the dryness of your wood.
I'd really question the dryness of your wood.
So I'm in the process of sealing up the clean outdoor I just split a piece of wood. I've got twenty two percent moisture
not perfect but burnable.iv'e burnt worse i'm sure.try the cheap fixes first and see what happens.from what i have read jotuls burn quite well'a bit too well sometimes.
We just had the chimney raised 22 inches because it was below the peak. And the guy who did it sealed from the top and what he could from the bottom of the liner. That did make an improvement over what we had, but the clean outdoor does have a warp to it so I'm sealing that app and we'll go from there. Thanks a lot for the info
try buying some of that rip off wood in the bags see how that burns,it's usually birch so it should burn.if it doesn't probably draft
Right now what the draft open and all doors closed. I'm running three hundred degrees on top of stove at the edge where jotul specified for the gauge to be
how much wood are you putting,filling it or half load.if you have a hand held blowtorch try heating chimney up before lighting a fire.if that works then you have weak draft.by chance are you closing the front of the stove right after lighting
i leave my door open when fires begining once wood catches i close the door but leave about an inch to let it start to roll then latch door .if i close the door tight right away i'll lose fire
The pictures really help. Based on them, I see several issues which add up to weak draft. It looks like the stove has about 13-14'? of vertical flue on it. However, this is dramatically reduced by the two 90º turns in the flue path, and made worse by jumping up to an 8" liner. The effect is to really slow down the draft. Add a cold, exterior chimney and it's a combo for a sluggish stove. The F600 wants at least 16' of 6" flue. The current system is acting more like a 10' flue system due to the mentioned caveats. An easy breathing stove that can handle a shorter flue system might handle this setup better.
It would help. So would replacing the stovepipe 90 with a pair of 45s in an offset done in double-walled stovepipe.
Question on chimney height. Is it measured from the deck, clean out door, or where the thimble comes in to the flue stack? Thanks.
From the Jotul book...
When installing the Jøtul F 600 into a masonry chimney you must
conform to all of the following guidelines:
• The masonry chimney must have a fireclay liner or equivalent,
with a minimum thickness of 5/8” and must be installed
with refractory mortar. There must be at least 1/4” air space
between the flue liner and chimney wall.
• The fireclay flue liner must have a nominal size of 8” X 8”, and
should not be larger than 8” X 12”. If a round fireclay liner is to
be used it must have a minimum inside diameter of 6” and
not larger than 8” in diameter.
So an update there was a gap in the cleanout door. I sealed up around it and the stove is doing much better. Thanks Guys.
Good call on the cleanout door. A leaky one will dilute draft. The height is typically measured from the stove top at the flue outlet.
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