Jotul Firelight Catalytic

[ecolbeck]

Hi, I have a Firelight Catalytic which I just purchased and installed. the stove operates wonderfully so far. however, the air control lever seems to have no effect on the rate of burn. the lever only moves from max burn to just past half way and then it jams up. the stove is in good condition, all seals are tight. does anybody have any experience with taking these stoves apart? Is it possible for a stove to lose its airtight qualities when it is moved? meaning, could the joints have loosened up during the move and are now allowing uncontrolled air to leak in?

your help is much appreciated.

Eric

 

[stonehouse]

Welcome to the club. I use the front door handle to tap it. I haven't called as it doesn't seem to help. Have to fix it yourself. I haven't bothered, not a huge problem for me.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/12302/

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/4370/

 

[jbrown56]

Eco,

I have an Oslo and my damper control gets stuck in the same place. What I've done is take the damper cover off inside the stove and use spray grease on the sliding damper. It seems to last for a few months and starts sticking again. It's a common problem with these stoves. Other than that, I love my stove.

Jim

 

[woodconvert]

Hi, I have a Firelight Catalytic which I just purchased and installed. the stove operates wonderfully so far. however, the air control lever seems to have no effect on the rate of burn. the lever only moves from max burn to just past half way and then it jams up. the stove is in good condition, all seals are tight. does anybody have any experience with taking these stoves apart? Is it possible for a stove to lose its airtight qualities when it is moved? meaning, could the joints have loosened up during the move and are now allowing uncontrolled air to leak in?

your help is much appreciated.

Eric

As for the sticky lever, mine was that way but it's got some miles on it so it's worn in and moves freely. You can easily get to the shutter and inspect it...see if there are rough edges or burrs and file em' down. As was said below, use the damper handle to tap it if need be but you do want to get it to where you can shut it all the way down.

As far as the control lever not effecting the burn rate...fix your control lever so it closes all the way then i'd suggest you check all the gaskets, specifically the ash pan gasket and the window/door gaskets.

 

[ecolbeck]

thank you for the replies, its comforting to know that there are knowledgeable people willing to help.

how exactly do I access the air control on this stove? Are there parts schematic diagrams accessible on the internet?

And a question for Mr. Woodconvert. Why do you operate your Firelight without the converter?

thank you

 

[Arlo]

The lever sticks on mine too, it will break in, ohterwise you can dissaemble it and sand the notorious bur of it. I just use the handle to tap it. Other than that it is a great stove!

 

[woodconvert]

thank you for the replies, its comforting to know that there are knowledgeable people willing to help.

how exactly do I access the air control on this stove? Are there parts schematic diagrams accessible on the internet?

And a question for Mr. Woodconvert. Why do you operate your Firelight without the converter?

thank you

Yes, you can get the diagrams on the net or you can get copies from your dealer.

As for running without the converter, I chose to do so after I had to replace a few catalysts in a short period of time. I have a tall masonry chimney and when it got real hot it tended to run away with itself and I couldn't control it (and there were no gasket leaks). After talking to a good guy at Jotul, making sure I wasn't doing something wrong and wrecking another cat I finally chose to run it sans cat. I have yet another in the basement ready to go and someday i'll give it another go.