Jotul Oslo "Cycle" Question

[slats]

Good afternoon. First time poster here, although i've been reading scores of posts for several months now. i just ordered a Jotul Oslo, a replacement for my VC Resolute (pre-acclaim model). From all i gathered from everyone's posts i'm comfortable with the following:
-never ever run the fire, even at start up, with the ash door open
-if necessary, crack/open the side door to get the fire going
-always, always use well seasoned wood (please no hernia's trying to push that point, i'm a good listener i promise )

i'm hoping for more info on the burn cycle, specifically temps to re-load, particularly for the long overnight burn. i was used to getting up once or twice throughout the night for my old resolute, and understand that should be a thing of the past... i seem to never have any issues with getting the resolute going even with the smallest amount of ashes. so i'm pretty sure my 6" SS insulated liner pulls a good draft, so i'm hoping that will continue withe the oslo.

any help or pointers would be greatly appreciated. this is a great forum and very valuable for collecting pointers. Thanks.

 

[begreen]

Welcome slats. That is a nice upgrade. You should do well with the new stove and it sounds like you know the drill. There will be a difference in the burn cycle, especially without the thermostatic control. But once you get the hang of it, I think you will be liking the Oslo a lot. Lots of folks here with Oslos. While waiting for a direct answer take a time to search on F500 burn or Oslo cycle to find past responses on this topic. Here a start:

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/66148/

 

[szmaine]

Hi Slats,

I'm on my second year with the Oslo-

Here's a thread that was very helpful for me...

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/46068/

Edit: Oh, and more recently this thread was great because you can't always burn the same way if the conditions change, ie it got really cold and people, including me, started pushing our stoves in a way that lead to excess coaling. Or you can be operating normally, but just need to get rid of the coals faster to do an ash clean out - anyway this one was good...


https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/69602/

 

[cptoneleg]

Welcome; I cannot give much advice this is first year with my Oslo and my wood is marginal, ( 24-30% don't check anymore it is what it is and it's cold)

So with that in mind Im getting about 3-4 hrs burn (down to coals) reload and sometimes open ash door to get everything up and blazing in a hurry, next year I probably won't do this, but for now if im having trouble and want to get back to bed thats what I do. I think they say don't is if you would go off and forget with that door open it could get ugly. It starts drawing so strong sounds like a helicopter over your house.

Any way good luck and I hope I eventually get an overnight burn, good news is we have not used our furnace this year except to see if it still works, so the stove is a real HEATER!

Good Luck
Cpt.

 

[cptoneleg]

Now am going to check out B G and sxmaines recomended reading this is a great site to learn :zip:

 

[ansehnlich1]

I'm fixin' to pack my ozzie right soon. She'll be getting a diet of red oak tonight, maybe a piece of chestnut oak in there too. Biggest splits on the bottom, then pack whatever I can get in that side door, and even squeeze some little stuff in there on top, being careful not to bang up the baffle or secondary air tubes though.

I imagine it'll be about 72 degrees tomorrow morning in the stove room here, it's a pretty big space, probably 600 sq. ftP+. I'll pack that oslo around 8pm, run it up to about 600 degrees stove top temp., then set it back to just a wee bit of air open, then go to bed, at 5:30 am she'll be around 72 or 74 in the living room.

Currently the side door is wide open and I'm letting the coals burn down. I built a big ole fire around 4:30 but she wasn't packed full. I loaded up crooked stuff, loose fit in there, and ran it pretty hot, burning it up pretty quick. That load lasted 3 hours. You gotta remember though, I ran it with the air half open the whole load, then wide open at the end. I saw 650 degrees on the stove top thermometer throughout that entire load til she started to burn down.

BTW, that oak was cut, split, and stacked 3 years ago this March.

 

[cptoneleg]

[quote author="ansehnlich1" date="1296538127"]I'm fixin' to pack my ozzie right soon. She'll be getting a diet of red oak tonight, maybe a piece of chestnut oak in there too. Biggest splits on the bottom, then pack whatever I can get in that side door, and even squeeze some little stuff in there on top, being careful not to bang up the baffle or secondary air tubes though.

I imagine it'll be about 72 degrees tomorrow morning in the stove room here, it's a pretty big space, probably 600 sq. ftP+. I'll pack that oslo around 8pm, run it up to about 600 degrees stove top temp., then set it back to just a wee bit of air open, then go to bed, at 5:30 am she'll be around 72 or 74 in the living room.

Currently the side door is wide open and I'm letting the coals burn down. I built a big ole fire around 4:30 but she wasn't packed full. I loaded up crooked stuff, loose fit in there, and ran it pretty hot, burning it up pretty quick. That load lasted 3 hours. You gotta remember though, I ran it with the air half open the whole load, then wide open at the end. I saw 650 degrees on the stove top thermometer throughout that entire load til she started to burn down.

BTW, that oak was cut, split, and stacked 3 years ago this March.[/quote

May I ask how long do you cut your wood mine is mostly 16" and am thinking needs to be maybe 20" or more to get that baby full.

 

[ansehnlich1]

Well, the first two years I was cutting at 22 inches. That's what I'm burning now. I then backed off and cut a couple loads at 20 inches. The last load of log length I got I cut to 18 inches. The reason I went down to 18 was simple. I'm 52 yrs. old and I'm tired of luggin' those big splits and rounds. Plus, 18's are easier for my 5'2 wife to handle

I'll tell you though, 22 inchers in there really take up the firebox room. And there are times where it's difficult to position them well. I figure if the 18's are too short I'll just go back up to 20 inches then.

I know what opinions are like, haha, but I think you'd be better off with a longer split than 16's.

 

[cptoneleg]

O K #1 got 10 yrs on ya I cut all this 16" stuff before my oslo burning exp. now just askin so im going to aim for 20". Now the 1st few days after a good cleaning I have some 12" stuff that I stacked in front door that the stove really seemed to like ( north - south) I like front door loading on this stove till ashes build up too much. Im still experminting, and askin :zip:

 

[jotul8e2]

I am assuming you are burning hardwood - oak, hickory, maple. I figure three hours on a cycle with white oak and hickory. I can choke the air down about 10:00 pm and still have a nice bed of coals for a quick (fairly quick, anyway) restart at 6:00 am. But if I need serious heat overnight - say 0 deg. f. or below - I'll have to reload on my way back from the bathroom at 2:00 am or so.

I can get a bit longer cycle IF I can really load the firebox full. With carefully selected pieces and some thought as to how to get the most wood in the box I can go four hours. This happens seldom, however, as I don't want to spend that much time.

There are a lot of threads and complaints about a buildup of charcoal, not just with Jotul stoves, but EPA stoves in general. I find if I simply rake them to the front and pretend they are just another split when I reload they take care of themselves. Or sometimes I stick a log in the back and shovel the charcoal over the top of it. It always burns.

 

[cptoneleg]

Oak, Locust, Sugar Maple, : same burn i'm getting really hoped i9t would get better( piss- log -piss-log) :zip:

 

[nelraq]

Hey all --re. your discussion of how long to cut your wood for the Oslo.

I processed a logging truck full last winter- and got 19 +/- cords. I decided on cutting everything to 21". Anal as I am(), I measured and marked every log before I cut it.

I figured 22" would be a little too tight and might be hard to get some pieces in--especially at any kind of an angle.

Why 21"?:

1. If I miss and cut a piece a little too long, it will still fit in the stove. If I cut a 22" piece a little too long , it might not fit!

2. A 21" piece works well at the front of the stove because it "bridges" the window--ie. the wood is contacting the iron on each side of the window so won't fall against the glass.

In hindsight, I should have cut a few cords at 15"--or even a little less. This would let me put some pieces in N/S - or at least at a good angle to the E/W ones.

Hope this helps! Cheers!

 

[slats]

Thanks everyone for sharing your experience. keep 'em coming!

 

[ansehnlich1]

O K #1 got 10 yrs on ya I cut all this 16" stuff before my oslo burning exp. now just askin so im going to aim for 20". Now the 1st few days after a good cleaning I have some 12" stuff that I stacked in front door that the stove really seemed to like ( north - south) I like front door loading on this stove till ashes build up too much. Im still experminting, and askin :zip:

I guess I have to turn in my man card since I'm complainin' about huffin' 22 inch splits at such a young age

I thought about 22 inch splits vs. 16 inchers. Thats 6 inches of split difference, and if you stuff 6 splits in there, you're talking 36 inches extra of split right? Meaning, burning 22 inchers is like having 2 extra 18 inch splits in the stove as compared to 16 inchers.

That would make a HUGE difference in long term burn times eh!

I think 20 inchers will likely be what I settle in with, though the 22's really have performed well.

So many decisions, so little time, by the time I figure it out I'll be buying another stove, haha!

 

[WoodpileOCD]

O K #1 got 10 yrs on ya I cut all this 16" stuff before my oslo burning exp. now just askin so im going to aim for 20". Now the 1st few days after a good cleaning I have some 12" stuff that I stacked in front door that the stove really seemed to like ( north - south) I like front door loading on this stove till ashes build up too much. Im still experminting, and askin :zip:

I guess I have to turn in my man card since I'm complainin' about huffin' 22 inch splits at such a young age

I thought about 22 inch splits vs. 16 inchers. Thats 6 inches of split difference, and if you stuff 6 splits in there, you're talking 36 inches extra of split right? Meaning, burning 22 inchers is like having 2 extra 18 inch splits in the stove as compared to 16 inchers.

That would make a HUGE difference in long term burn times eh!

I think 20 inchers will likely be what I settle in with, though the 22's really have performed well.

So many decisions, so little time, by the time I figure it out I'll be buying another stove, haha!

OR turning 53 :bug:

 

[Shari]

I would say 96% of the rounds I get in here are cut less than 21" so I don't really have a choice - but then again 90% of the wood I have here is scrounged rounds. Every now and then I come up with a 21" or 22" split and I swear "It won't fit!" but it does. Does burning a 18" split versus a 22" split affect your burn time? Of course it does but free wood is free wood. I also side load so those 21" or 22" can be a bit heavy side loading one-handed. I figure around year three of side loading longer splits I should have a left forearm about the size of Popeye!

 

[firefighterjake]

Good afternoon. First time poster here, although i've been reading scores of posts for several months now. i just ordered a Jotul Oslo, a replacement for my VC Resolute (pre-acclaim model). From all i gathered from everyone's posts i'm comfortable with the following:
-never ever run the fire, even at start up, with the ash door open
-if necessary, crack/open the side door to get the fire going
-always, always use well seasoned wood (please no hernia's trying to push that point, i'm a good listener i promise )

Very good . . . on all three points.

i'm hoping for more info on the burn cycle, specifically temps to re-load, particularly for the long overnight burn. i was used to getting up once or twice throughout the night for my old resolute, and understand that should be a thing of the past... i seem to never have any issues with getting the resolute going even with the smallest amount of ashes. so i'm pretty sure my 6" SS insulated liner pulls a good draft, so i'm hoping that will continue withe the oslo.

I should mention that I find I can get 3-5 good, solid hours of heat with the Oslo . . . and 5-7 hours on an overnight fire . . . meaning that if I want a good amount of heat in the night I still need to either reload when I wake up in the night (which is rare since I am tired and lazy) or I simply have to face the inevitable -- that when I wake up several hours after doing my final load at 9:30-10 p.m. that at 4-5 a.m. I may have plenty of coals to easily relight the stove, but I may be close (or right at) the 60 degree F mark at which point my oil boiler will kick on . . . but to me this isn't a bad thing . . . most nights I sleep all the way through and the oil boiler does not kick on . . . and on those wicked cold nights when it does kick on in the early morning hours the rarely heard sound of the ticking metal of the baseboard radiators heating up works like an alarm clock . . . gets me right out of bed.

any help or pointers would be greatly appreciated. this is a great forum and very valuable for collecting pointers. Thanks.

Welcome to the forum . . . and to the Oslo Brother (and Sister) Hood.