Jotul Oslo hearth installation

[Cheoah]

Hi everyone, I’m going ahead with a stove install and I’d like to use the Oslo. My lintel is at 26”, part of an old heatalator we’ve used a little over the years. With the short leg kit, it’ll barely fit, per specs. I really think the flu collar will fit under there. What do y’all think? The stove will be proud of the hearth for the most part, flush with the opening. How difficult will flu pipe conections be with marginal clearances around the stove? I’ve been a career farmer, so I have lots of experience doing impossible crap out of necessity. I always defer to those who have more experience and that’d be about all of you I’m sure, if you’ve installed a stove. We heated with wood exclusively for years with fisher wood stoves, but I never installed a one of them. Just fed them and clothed them with new gaskets. Edit: I forgot to mention I’m prepared to remove a small amount of material from bottom of feet if I’m .25” or so off. I think it will be necessary.

I haven’t modified the metal firebox yet, the angled back sheet will need to be cut to accommodate connections to a 6” liner I’ve yet to install in my 15’ masonry chimney. It appears that one 90 will get me plumb with the flue, or perhaps a 45, although I’m not sure I have the space for that. Do they make flexible ones? This is the kind of thing I need to figure out ahead of time, I have no interest in winging it, and moving the stove up and down until I get it plumbed right.....

Liners are something I haven’t researched much yet, but figured I’d start without insulation and add later if it doesn’t draw aququately. Im in western NC at around 2500’ and it’s fairly mild winters compared to some of you 10 cord guys. Or 5 cord guys. This winter inspired me to get a decent stove and quit blowing all my money on fuel.

I’m open to any advice, hope I’ve given you enough info. I’ll also need to fill that crack w mortar and get some ember protection in front there. Otherwise I think I’m good on clearances. No mantle, I’ll add a masonry one at some point perhaps. Here’s a photo:




I’m putting this upstairs in our 60s brick ranch that breathes freely, to be honest, amd has a fairly open floor plan of 1800 sq.ft. We have good hvac and return vents nearby the stove that should also help heat the lower 1200 sq ft of finished space. The other 600 is my shop, with a monitor heater.

Thanks for any input, I’ve only recently discovered this forum and enjoyed reading old threads related to this topic.

 

[ratsrepus]

The flu on the Oslo can be rotated to a rear exit, if that helps. Looking at your situation I would think that would work well. I had an Oslo and if i remember correctly you can do top exit or rear

 

[begreen]

It's going to be tight. Measure carefully. The Oslo outlet height with short legs is 26" and it is preferable to have the horizontal connector with an uphill slope of 1/4" per ft. toward the tee. Rear exit going to a 15' flue with a 90º turn at the tee could be balky. The Oslo likes a decent draft.

 

[ratsrepus]

the Oslo doesn't like a good draft, it needs it, big time

 

[Cheoah]

Thanks for the insights. It is tight. Once clear of the 3” lintel things open up and I can get some rise. If there’s no other apparent show stoppers I’ll go ahead I guess.

Whether it all draws, we’ll see. I’ll be getting a used one, and worst case I guess I’ll sell it if I cannot make it work. I’ll modify a second hand set of short legs and keep the originals.

I studied up on liners a bit. I think I can do a rigid one and I just need to wrap my mind around how to get the flu connection and plate installed.

I’ve gleaned a lot from the archives here, I’m grateful for the resource and will post my experience squeezing steel into rock....lol