Jotul Oslo V3

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Thanks. OK, so the ash pan, if it is kept full then you never empty it and just shovel out the ash as it gets to be too much?
I did a match test and see that the flame is drawn in on one corner of the ash pan door. So that is a solution. This is a new stove and I would hope/expect it to not need to be rigged to get it to burn correctly.
Yes, I am speaking with the dealer on this.
Jotul has been making stoves for 160 years, and their high end stove leaks air?
Yes, that's correct.

We're getting about 10 hrs burn time when damped all the way down, and there are sufficient coals in the morning to add a few big logs that eventually start burning. We're getting about 500 F on the right front corner of the stove and the CAT temperature is high (1600F). Ours stove is a brand new F500 V3, as well.

Jotul Oslo V3
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10-12 is what I would expect
The lack of a bypass is the problem. Again there is a reason every other stove with a cat uses a bypass. I can pretty much guarantee most of them will be running with no cat after about 5 years.

BTW I almost never use paper to start a fire and really only start at most a dozen fires a year. The rest is just a reload on coals
6 to 8 hours after loading and setting on low, the stove is out and cold to the touch. For years I never had to relight each morning as I do with this one. Coals?,,,None.
How tall is your chimney? These stoves were designed around a 15’ chimney, taller chimneys can benefit from a pipe damper.
25'. The install manual says: (The minimum chimney height is 15 feet (4.57 m). Thechimney must also be at least 3 feet higher than the highestpoint where it passes through the roof and at least 2 feethigher than the highest part of the roof or structure that iswithin 10 feet of the chimney, measured horizontally)
So do we imagine that the installer will come back top put one in? It was installed by a pro but not the seller of the stove. (installation was 2 months out by the dealer) The stove is backed into an alcove so adding a damper seems as if to be a challenge.
The ash pan door corner does show some draft when it is on. This being a new stove, I would expect that the dealer would do whatever fixes on that type of an issue.
I would have a stove pipe damper for that height chimney.

This stove is quite radiant and has strict alcove installation rules. Is the alcove built per the manual's requirements and is the side door locked?
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Alcove is the wrong word, it is in front of a brick fireplace with the back horizontal exhaust within the brick opening. This is why it may be a challenge to get to a place to put a pipe damper into it. Unless the stove is moved out.
We have a few in the field. After a few decades of Jotul being our #1 seller, he have backed off almost completely. The Oslo has been a real deal killer… I’m trying to find a real fix for it, but it’s elusive. The Ashpan doesn’t always seal up tight, even though it’s latached. Overfire is a common issue.
I have definitely overfired a few times due to the door issue before I figured it out. Does anyone here know how to find out if there is damage other than using a flashlight method? I am curious to see what the grate warping would look like. I will try to clean the cat this week since I have terrible back puffing this year.