Just fired a Garn 2000

[Scotty2]

and I see the occasional wood spark and the smell of wood smoke coming into the room through the air fins on the blower. I'm surprised it doesn't suck air from the room rather than blow air into it.
Otherwise it seems to be running fine...though the blower sounds like you're living next to a jet taking off...hope to minimize this by better insulating the corner of the shed it resides in.
any ideas?

You know...I might have just figure part of this out. The exhaust and air intake on these units is pretty close to one another...in our case less than 2' apart. I'll have to figure out how to keep the intake from sucking in the exhaust smoke.

Regards, Scotty

 

[TCaldwell]

That's not normal to see sparks or smell a lot of smoke, blower motor loose, gasket not tight against boiler?

 

[mike van]

Pipe your air intake farther away from the exhaust flue. Fan shouldn't leak sparks back into the room as T said, double check your assembly of it?

 

[Buzz Saw]

Is your Garn 2000 new? I fired my new 2000 and experienced similar odors. Never saw any sparks but the first couple of fires the inside of the barn smelled like burning wood pretty strongly.
After a month or the odors have diminished to an unnoticeable level.

I don't think repiping your intake will help with your problems. The intake is sealed and the exhaust is sealed.

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[Scotty2]

Thanks everyone. I did re-tighten the bolts on the blower, and the 3 clean outs. Loose to my way of thinking.
I'm going to install a 'partition' between the exhaust and air intake outside the building...perhaps twist the intake hood slightly to the other side...and spill the exhaust into a gravel filled barrel (it spills <2' onto the concrete which disperses it in all directions.
And the more burns I do (only 5 or so to date), the less I smell stuff.
I still get some puffing (wood too dry?), and last night the blower didn't turn off when the fire burned out...I'll double check the wiring.
A side note: I noticed there is a 25 degree drop in water temperature between the tank and where it enters the insulated Pex going underground...a distance of <20".
The tank is insulated with 2 layers of 2" mineral wool...enough that the room stays cool, thus I'm going to have to insulate all the copper pipes on the wall. 4 pumps along the way.
Regards, Scotty

 

[maple1]

It exhausts horizontally? I thought when that was done, the outlet was supposed to be downturned into a barrel anyway?

 

[Scotty2]

Maple1; I never claimed to be the 'brightest' bulb in a pack. I've had it downturned pointing toward the concrete, which 'splashes' the smoke every which way. Guess I'll go looking for an old rust bucket.

 

[eauzonedan]

Scotty
A heads up on temperatures and the Garn tank. I've got three additional temp sensors suspended within my 1500's tank at the "quarter height" levels plus the sensor reading in the control box which is the top few inches of the tank. I regularly see 40 degree stratification differences between the bottom of the tank and the top. I have a filter system that runs along with the blower during the burn. A burn will pretty well eliminate the stratification. Your set up may give different results Bottom line actually measure pipe temps and don't assume what the tank temp showing on your panel represents something more than the temp of the top couple inches of the storage. . Wrapping some insulation around your pipe and sticking a probe or thermometer under it should get you close. Dan

 

[S.Whiplash]

Thanks everyone. I did re-tighten the bolts on the blower, and the 3 clean outs. Loose to my way of thinking.
I'm going to install a 'partition' between the exhaust and air intake outside the building...perhaps twist the intake hood slightly to the other side...and spill the exhaust into a gravel filled barrel (it spills <2' onto the concrete which disperses it in all directions.
And the more burns I do (only 5 or so to date), the less I smell stuff.
I still get some puffing (wood too dry?), and last night the blower didn't turn off when the fire burned out...I'll double check the wiring.
A side note: I noticed there is a 25 degree drop in water temperature between the tank and where it enters the insulated Pex going underground...a distance of <20".
The tank is insulated with 2 layers of 2" mineral wool...enough that the room stays cool, thus I'm going to have to insulate all the copper pipes on the wall. 4 pumps along the way.
Regards, Scotty

That's not much insulation, if you still have access go back in and add more, 6-8" should be the minimum imo. As for the burning barrel on a horizontal exhaust, that's required. Best manual in the industry, all you have to do is take the time to read it.

 

[Buzz Saw]

The barrel is required if you don't have the spark arrestor installed in the 3rd cleanout (right after the blower). This is in the July 2016 manual, so I can't speak for older models.

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[S.Whiplash]

The barrel is required if you don't have the spark arrestor installed in the 3rd cleanout (right after the blower). This is in the July 2016 manual, so I can't speak for older models.
.

You're misreading it, the spark arrestor on the barrel is not required if one is located in the 3rd clean-out, the barrel is required. I wouldn't fool around with this, only bad things can happen back there if the fly ash is not contained.

This is from page 44

FOR A HORIZONTAL FLUE INSTALLATION, A METAL CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH SAND MUST BE PLACED BELOW THE ANGLED STAINLESS STEEL ELBOW TO CATCH ANY FLY ASH OR SPARKS THAT MAY EXIT THE EXHAUST. DO NOT USE A PLASTIC OR ANY COMBUSTIBLE CONTAINER. A ½” MESH WIRE SCREEN MUST BE FASTENED OVER THE TOP OF THE CONTAINER TO PREVENT THE ENTRANCE OF DRY LEAVES, ANIMALS, BIRDS, ETC INTO THE CONTAINER.