Just ordered Duravent pipes - Need any sealant to connect?

TechBill

New Member
Feb 18, 2019
24
Springfield
At first, I brought Selkirk pipes from Menards but I ran into problem putting it all together because my stove will be installed in the basement.

I wanted to connect it to bricked clay-lined chimney where the wood stove was previously connected to. The 8" chimney nimble is above the pellet stove so I got an 3 to 8 inch adapter which fit tightly into the brick nimble. I plan just to use high temp silicon seal around the nimble to keep it in place without using any other fasteners.

The issue I ran into after adding a vertical adapter to the stove, the 36" Selkirk pipe is exactly the same length from the top fo the stove vertical adapter (factory adapter) to the 90 degree elbow that is connected to the nimble adapter and I couldn't fit Selkirk connector between it since it will need an extra 2" space for it.

To use the Selkirk connector, the pipe need to be at 34 1/2" in length so I thought I would try to get a smaller pipe and use an adjustable extender but Selkirk doesn't sell black pipe in 24 inches and the extender only add up to 10 1/2 inches more so it would be just being right on the dot with a 24" pipe to get 34 1/2" and if I need an inch or more then I would be out of luck.

Instead, I decided to take all the Selkirk pipes back to store and pay more for the Duravent pipes since I can get 24" pipe in black and an 18" extender pipe that add up to 16" so still room to adjust if needed without being on the borderline.

My question with the Duravent, since it have interlocking feature and a silicone gasket so I will not need to use any sealants or foil tape with it?

The 3 to 8 Selkirk adapter does not have any interlocking at all just a 3 inch pipe which the Selkirk just slide right onto it so I assume Duravent will be the same. Do I just use a silicone seal around the adapter pipe and slide the Duravent pipe onto it? Will I need to use two stainless screw to keep it on or the seal should keep it on?

This is what the nimble adapter look like

https://express.google.com/u/0/product/7954333917336498548_7523157769645081524_7820913?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=tu_cu&utm_content=eid-lsjeuxoeqt&gtim=CJLpt5q5xI_66gEQnIXv3rW6mtLDARjQzdMVIgNVU0Qo8K7Q5AUw8azdAw&utm_campaign=7820913&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsZ3kBRCnARIsAIuAV_SHilsY7UzC_J4CrK8c1o6AJ-95ElXM9nyH5acK-4i6_1FFXCbZ_vwaAuelEALw_wcB

Any feedback are welcomed!

Thank you!
 

TechBill

New Member
Feb 18, 2019
24
Springfield
If you are using the duravent pro you don't need any sealant. I use this tape around the joints just to be on the safe side. It's good to 500 degrees F.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-Tape-1-in-x-3-33-yd-Stretch-and-Seal-Self-Fusing-Silicone-Tape-in-Black-1208952/100206050

It being installed in a finished basement and we wanted to keep the appearance around and above the stove nice.

This was one of the main reason I decided to go with Duravent pipes for a clean appearance and also after researching about their company, it seems they are serious about safe and quality of their products.
 

johneh

Minister of Fire
Dec 19, 2009
2,269
Eastern Ontario
I just taped with metal tape and painted black
looks good .
Sealant is to hard to remove if you
ever have to remove the pipe that's why
I used the tap
 

TechBill

New Member
Feb 18, 2019
24
Springfield
I just taped with metal tape and painted black
looks good .
Sealant is to hard to remove if you
ever have to remove the pipe that's why
I used the tap
I plan to install pipes without sealant or tape now since I trust Duravent knows what it designed which is high quality leak-proof interlocking pipes.
 

c.stevens

New Member
Mar 3, 2019
9
Midwest
I've used duravent 5 years now. Pricey... But it all seems to be. I've taken it apart, reconfigured, and re-routed several times and its still good and seals well... HOWEVER, most of my plumbing is outside, and the inside seams get foil taped. Like Pete and johneh mentioned, tape is easier to remove than sealant by far. Close to the stove though the tape tends to bake on a little. Hope it goes well for you.
 

TechBill

New Member
Feb 18, 2019
24
Springfield
All my pipes will be inside but it only 4 pipes total which are a stove connector -> 24" straight -> 18" extension -> 90 elbow

I have been thinking about using foil tape around the joints and use masking tape to spay paint only the foil tapes flat black color. I don't like the look of a plastic electric tape on a steel material.
 

mtnbiker727

New Member
Mar 11, 2019
11
PA
We have duravent pipes, and I had to seal the connection coming out of the stove, the cleanout T, and cleanout cap, because smoke poured out of all the connections until it got to the vertical pipe.
I used aluminum tape because I thought it would be easier to get off than the silicone caulk, but boy was I wrong. The stuff won't peal off after being heated on. Maybe different brands or qualities of tape stay together to be removed, but the stuff we had laying around wasn't fun to get off. When the heating season is over I'm going to disassemble the pipes and use Goo Gone or something to get the sticky remains of the tape off. The silicone is easier to scrape off with a utility knife.
 

ericofmaine

Member
Feb 8, 2012
134
Southern Maine
Also, check with your municipality or insurance company. Even though I used the Duravent, I still had to seal the joints (tape or silicone, they didn't care) before the insurance company would sign off on the install.

Eric
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ssyko

sam08861

New Member
Jan 30, 2019
15
NW NJ
It might depend what your manual states for inspection purposes. I got the 3" non pro $199 kit from lowes and it stated that screws aren't required (except at the adapter, which called for 3 screws) but high temp rtv 3 500 degree or better silicone. (I used the red gasket high temp 650 degree stuff from the local auto store)

However, I would agree that tape is easier remove and would recommend it over silicone, if you can use it. From my inspection, I had to add in a horizonal section to get further from the wall per my inspector, so thankfully I hadn't used too much silicon on the exhaust piece and was able to get it off with an oil filter wrench, would have been much easier with tape and if I had used as much silicon on this as the other joints, I imagine I would have had to cut/sacrifice a section to remove it and would be a lot of effort with a saws all or jig saw.

For this same reason, if you use silicone, I suggest using it sparingly to make sure the joints seal, but no more, altghoug it's tempting to glob it in there to make sealing a one and done effort. (which is what I did for the remainder of the joints, lol)