Kodiak Wood Stove Insert

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KBEAR

New Member
Feb 28, 2022
7
Bergholz, OH
Good morning,
I'm new to the site and it seems like there is a ton of knowledge here! I was wondering if anyone else had an issue finding the correct size Chimney pipe for the stove i purchased for my cabin. I found an old Kodiak wood stove that needed a ton of TLC. But i love old wood stoves, i just think they're so cool! so i bought it, Sandblasted the exterior, Heat painted it, replaced the firebrick, & replaced the gasket. I'm trying to find the correct size stove pipe, but the opening (collar) on the top of the stove is 7 5/8" and the actual opening to the stove is 6" Can anyone help me or point me in the right direction?
Wood Stove front.JPG
 
It sounds like the larger opening is a pass-thru for the 6" liner to connect to the 6" flue opening on the actual stove body.
 
Thank you for your response, I tried to fit a 6" Duravent double wall pipe into the opening and it was just about 3/16" too big. A 6" single wall is way too small for a snug fit a 7" single wall is too small and an 8" is obviously too big. In your opinion, am I ahead to get a different type of pipe for the connection? or do you think i need to get something custom made? I know I probably sound like a moron with this, but I'd rather be safe than sorry and it's so close... I just figured someone might have tripped across this before trying to re-install an old Kodiak Stove. I thought the single wall 6" Pipe that connects to the double wall at the thimble would work but it looks to be too large as well.

Wood Stove Sandblasted.JPG Wood Stove Painted.JPG Wood Stove Doors.JPG Wood Stove Complete.JPG
 
Looks good. It cleaned up nicely. This is an insert. It needs to have a full stainless liner in it. Stovepipe is not permitted in a chimney.

and the actual opening to the stove is 6"
this is what matters. Do you have a top-down shot of the flue hole?
 
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Thanks for the compliment! My plan was to run it like a stand-alone stove (off the wall 18") with corrugated steel wall then run it "through the wall" with double walled chimney pipe. I was going to take the surround off the front. Is there a reason I can't do that?
 
Thanks for the compliment! My plan was to run it like a stand-alone stove (off the wall 18") with corrugated steel wall then run it "through the wall" with double walled chimney pipe. I was going to take the surround off the front. Is there a reason I can't do that?
It has no legs and was designed to sit on a fireplace hearth.
 
Ok, Souds great, it should fit my plan! I actually plan on building an elevated hearth with log storage underneath and Brick all the way up the sides. Thank you so much!
 
Ok, Souds great, it should fit my plan! I actually plan on building an elevated hearth with log storage underneath and Brick all the way up the sides. Thank you so much!
That elevated hearth will need to be made entirely with non-combustible materials
 
That elevated hearth will need to be made entirely with non-combustible materials
The log storage underneath brings up questions of clearance to combustibles. It probably can be done, but with a strong dose of caution because this is strictly off label and out of the scope of NFPA 211 guidelines that the insurance companies refer back to. The hearth R value should be at least equivalent to 8" of masonry and maybe line the roof of the log storage with sheet metal too.

It would be prudent to run this plan by the insurance company to check coverage.
 
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The log storage underneath brings up questions of clearance to combustibles. It probably can be done, but with a strong dose of caution because this is strictly off label and out of the scope of NFPA 211 guidelines that the insurance companies refer back to. The hearth R value should be at least equivalent to 8" of masonry and maybe line the roof of the log storage with sheet metal too.

It would be prudent to run this plan by the insurance company to check coverage.
Good point
 
I'm wondering if the underside has threaded sockets for legs. If so, putting legs on it might be a better solution. A stout, metal stand would also work.
 
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I actually am planning on pouring a concrete base, then a brick hearth with brick columns at the corners approx. 18" high with another 3" thick slab of concrete poured over corrugated steel decking then surround the "insert portion of the stove (sides) bricked with another piece of corrugated steel with preformed cap on top with a hole reveal to allow the stovepipe to extend through? I have a concern of the concrete on top cracking from the heat, but I believe there is heat resistant mortar.
 
I actually am planning on pouring a concrete base, then a brick hearth with brick columns at the corners approx. 18" high with another 3" thick slab of concrete poured over corrugated steel decking then surround the "insert portion of the stove (sides) bricked with another piece of corrugated steel with preformed cap on top with a hole reveal to allow the stovepipe to extend through? I have a concern of the concrete on top cracking from the heat, but I believe there is heat resistant mortar.
Does this mean you have 3" concrete between the insert and the wood underneath? (Sorry, hard to understand your design without a sketch.)
Clearances are to combustibles. So that might not cut it.
 
Hi KBEAR,
I recently acquired a Kodiak that looks to be the same model as yours... although not as beautifully restored!
I rebricked the interior but I'm struggling with the gasket. What diameter did you use? There was no gasket in place. Is it possible this Kodiak was designed without gaskets originally? The ones I bought seem too "fat".
Also, do you use a fireplace grate in yours? Does anyone?
I got lucky and found the old (original?) screen in the garage in pretty good shape.
BTW, we're practically neighbors... I'm in Carrollton!
Thanks
PS Although I've done much reading here at hearth, this is my first post.