Large Winter Warm not much heat

[Psirusas]

I just bought and installed a used large Vermont Castings Winter Warm, am not getting as much heat as I expected. I have several observations/questions but not sure what is going on, would appreciate any advice.

I did take out and clean the catalytic combustor, it looked intact but I don't know how old it is. I noticed that the secondary air probe is pretty much completely eroded. I was thinking to replace that (any advice?) first then see what happens.

I am waiting to close damper for stove to heat up, and then checking chimney smoke not seeing a difference between when the damper closed and not closed, but both look very clean to me.

I have liner going up to first flue tile (per owners manual) was going to line the complete chimney once my roof gets snow/ice free.

How do I tell if the thermostat is working properly? There is no obvious change in flame when I put the lever all the one way or the other. I did notice that there is no probe sticking out into the firebox from it, not sure if there is supposed to be or not.

I am burning tulip poplar, which I have in abundance.

I did not put in any damper seal, not sure how critical that is.

The fans are kicking on, not generating a whole lot of air movement, but some.

Any advice would be appreciated!

Pete

 

[krex1010]

Ok you have a couple of things going on that will affect an inserts performance. These inserts run much better with a fully lined chimney, they definitely draft better, without a good draft heat output is affected. You have no block off plate installed, this allows alot of the heat generated to go right up the chimney and since you have no seal at the top then there is absolutely nothing preventing the heat to get sucked outside. With this setup it is almost like burning an open fireplace. You have draft going up your chimney that will suck alot of the air in your house up and out. The surround will help some but not much. Definitely need to get a block off plate. Not to mention that a direct connect install like you have requires a block off plate to meet code. Right now you have nothing to contain a chimney fire if you were to have one. Also I hope you have cleaned that chimney before you installed the insert. Lastly tulip is not a great heat producer but if it is seasoned it should be ok. Is it seasoned? How long ago was it split? Wet wood greatly reduces heat output.

Definitely recommend lining and installing a steel block off plate at the damper, and if it is an exterior chimney the liner should be insulated in my opinion. This is the safest way to install a insert, it will help your stove work to it's best potential. Also you should have had your chimney cleaned and inspected by a certified chimney sweep to make sure that the chimney is safe. Not sure if you did that. I know it sounds like alot but better safe than sorry

 

[krex1010]

Also what is the chimney like? How tall? Is it masonry?

 

[begreen]

Might be the wood. Tulip is not a very dense hardwood and has relatively low heat output. Good wood for fall and spring burning. If you can get hold of some well seasoned maple give it a try.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Yes, whenever someone says they can't get much heat I always suspect the wood as the culprit.

 

[Psirusas]

The chimney is masonry up the outside of the house, did not measure but estimate 30 foot

 

[begreen]

A damper sealing, block off plate should have been installed with a stub installation. This is required. It will also help retain heat around the insert which should help improve it's heat output.

 

[fredarm]

My brother in law has one in his Vermont ski house. He doesn't even have the fan plugged in but when it gets going it will run us out of the living room if we reload more than once. Granted we're burning mostly oak and maple, but it sounds like something with the installation isn't right. That thing is a serious heater, espicially compared with my little Vista Insert!

 

[krex1010]

Tulip is not a primo firewood, but I burn alot of it and while other woods are better, a load of tulip will still heat my house. I think that the major problem here is the install. Without a full liner there is no seal at the top of the chimney and there is no block off plate, so no seal at the damper. It's basically a few feet of pipe stuck up inside an open chimney. Even if you burned some quality wood in this thing a ton of that heat is going to get sucked up the chimney by the draft.

 

[Psirusas]

Thanks for the advice. I am proceeding with the block off plate and full lining.
How important is insulating the liner? I live in southeast Pennsylvania.

Also, should I worry about the secondary air sensor in the refractory, looks like it needs replacing.

 

[begreen]

The stove should have a thorough vacuum cleaning inside all passages to assure good airflow. The probe should be replaced as should any worn or damage parts. Yes the liner should be insulated.

 

[gpcollen1]

Tulip...not the best wood but you can heat your house with it for sure. Those that think you cannot are wrong. I heated an entire season with Tulip.

Block off plate - I assume that that pipe up to the first flue tile has something stuffed around it right? Like insulation or something? If this is an insert then I expect that you have the surround sealed to an extent to the hearth with some insulation. This will stop your warm house air from going up the chimney and lessening the draft of your stove. If you are installing a liner, you can seal the house off at the insert urround for now. A block off plate is a bit better.

Liner - without a doubt some stoves need one more than others, though they all benefit from one. Liners are better off insulated for sure though can do fine without them. i have one uninsulated liner and one insulated [duraliner]