Lazy fire question

[olddawgsrule]

It looks like either the glass gasket or door gasket is giving out.
Both have signs weakness.

Glass gasket is eay to size..
Door not so much..

Do I measure the spacing allowed to fit the gasket in the groove or add something to this demension?

 

[My Oslo heats my home]

My gaskets are in my stove manual and I've seen them online when doing searches for stove parts. I have never been in a position of not knowing the size and having to measure the space, not sure I would know how to do it...It's a good question if that's where you are.
Which stove are you working with?

 

[Woody1911a1]

assuming it's a rope gasket like mine is , the size is measured when it's round not flattened out like yours will be . i recently replaced mine which is specced as 5/8" and i've got the cut-off at hand and it measures 5/8 round and @ 13/16 flattened . so just for the heck of it i just measured the channel in the door and it measures 1/2 " .

how wide is the channel in your door ?

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Get the correct diameter gasket in a length longer than you need and then trim it after you have most of it installed.

Gasket comes in many lengths including large rolls, big enough to do several doors. Some stores even cut rolls of gasket.

 

[Woody1911a1]

Get the correct diameter gaskett.

thing is is that he's asking what diameter to buy . ? i'm guessing that he doesn't have any documentation telling him what he needs to buy .

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Gasket is usually a size larger in diameter than the channel it goes into if your question is about diameter. If your question is about length then just allow a couple of inches more than is needed to go around the channel and place it in the channel and cut to fit.

 

[olddawgsrule]

Thank you guys!
No my manual does not give me a spec
Yes the company will sell me a gasket for $39.99 plus shipping...
Have a feeling I can buy much more than I need for that..

Woody, that is what I suspected and thank you for taking the time to check.
My channel measures 3/8" and I was about to get 1/2" to insure it's tight.

Smokey, thank you as well and figured to buy a longer length (actually hoping to buy a roll)
I figure it's not much different from replacing a screen.
Rough cut long, roll it in, force towards start so it doesn't stretch and be careful on the end cut to seal it.

Update:
Further investigation shows a gap in the glass gasket..
That I have sizing for and intend to replace as well.

I've had issues with the stove from day one.
US Stove has said it's because I've flued it through the chimney instead of short pipe/ direct vent.
I've disagreed with them mainly because I have great draft and the stove runs fine on medium or low.
Now I see there has been a gap on the glass gasket from the beginning and has burned back creating a larger one.
Understanding that a pellet stove needs negative air, drawn only from the OAK, I may now understand the problem..

I'm going to replace both gaskets and seal them properly.
The question is: Is your glass sealed fully?

I'm suspecting it's sealed fully..

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

If the glass is sealed or not depends upon where the stove draws its air wash air from if it has an air wash.

A lot of the USSC units have issues with the burn pot not fitting in its receptacle, or having too many open holes at the top of the pot, or even having to large a gap for its air wash these all produce a burn pot bypass one that wasn't really taken into consideration when the exhaust blower was sized..

 

[olddawgsrule]

If the glass is sealed or not depends upon where the stove draws its air wash air from if it has an air wash.

A lot of the USSC units have issues with the burn pot not fitting in its receptacle, or having too many open holes at the top of the pot, or even having to large a gap for its air wash these all produce a burn pot bypass one that wasn't really taken into consideration when the exhaust blower was sized..

That's very good information Smokey!
Helps a lot!

Makes sense of some gap at the glass to induce air for the wash.
I do believe too much is there and will reduce some, not all.

I don't know about it fitting the receptacle properly, but too many open holes at the top I can understand.
Feed of air must be predominantly from the bottom.

I need to think this through a bit more..
Love the input!

Gap at glass is close to 3"
I'm going to close it to 1/4"

The holes at the upper ring I'm now thinking of welding shut.
If wrong, hey I can always drill back out.

Need to look at this a bit more.

Very nice input, what I needed to hear!

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Some burn pots do not sit tightly in their receptacle that is there is a gap around the burn pot that allows air to go up by the burn pot missing the pellet pile entirely.

The air wash gaps are too wide on some stoves allowing too much air to enter and this reduces the amount of air that the exhaust blower can suck through the burn pot. This is the same effect that opening the door has while the stove is running, it is a lot easier for the air coming in through the open door to get drawn up into the vent system. This isn't just the length of the area without the window gasket, it is the gap size going from glass to the back piece of metal frame.

 

[olddawgsrule]

Door gasket looks good (I will still replace once goods arrive).
Glass gasket I did manage to come up with some material locally and have replaced.

Immediate change in burn!
Still not there..

I used some high temp epoxy I have around to close off the upper holes in the pot to see the effect.
Change yes, but not for the better overall.

I have always felt this stove feeds to quickly.
To that extent I fab'ed up a slide cover to reduce the exposed auger port from sending too many pellets to the pot.

Now, there's the change I was looking for!
I went back to the pot and re-opened the upper holes.
Much better flame!

Still playing with how much of an opening I want at the auger, believe I'm at the halfway point right now.

I've talked to USSG before about changing out the IC controllers to potentiometers so that I could control the blower, feed and room blower.
They don't feel they have any problems with the stove and have no intentions/willingness to even consider this..
Also asked for the circuit diagram so I might work this out myself..
That was a flat 'No'!
They did send me a new control board, of which they stated they made a few changes on.
Hmm.. Don't believe you have any issues with the stove, yet here's the updated control board.. Hmm..

Thank you all for your input.
The stove is running better.
I'll update once I get the door gasket replaced and balance out the feed better.

 

[Bioburner]

The Forester was probably made from my 89 Ford pickup. It too needed the hood up or the gaskets replaced to try and keep running. I had a chance to but one new for $660 but was not at all comfortable with its construction.

 

[olddawgsrule]

For $660 I wouldn't have bought it either.. Paid a little over half that.
Happy I did buy it, for I never would have learned just what these pellet stoves can do.
Bought it to take the chill out of the basement room.
Does so much more, well, when running right.. and it will again.

Still chuckling over the comment!

 

[olddawgsrule]

If I may request..
When you folks of quality stoves go through your next clean out, please take a picture of your pot.
I'd like to see the configuration of the holes.

I've covered the upper holes, now I have covered the first row of lower.
I've also gone back to my OAK and shut the draft down completely.
Basically reducing the air intake to minimum.

I've also blocked almost 75% of the auger to slow down the feed.

Currently have one of the cleanest fires I've seen yet in this stove.
A little lite on temp, from what I've seen before, but it's a small stove and probably shouldn't have been running that strong.
I'm at 55% of my best heat coming out, yet very clean burn.

I'm not at a good balance of feed, air and burn, yet closer than I've ever been.

Thank you all for your help (especially you Smokey)!