LED Strip Lighting

[jebatty]

I was looking for LED lighting to replace the kitchen under cabinet lighting, now several halogen lights. Looked at LED strip lighting, just bought a 6' strip off of *bay, including the walwart transformer and dimmer, and I'm really impressed -- very bright, dimmable, and the 3 x 20 watt halogen lights now will be replaced with the strip light at 19 watts: brighter and more uniform under cabinet lighting. Also can dim down to 2 watts.

About $26 incl s/h. The strip has the LED's on an adhesive tape, which might need some help to keep the tape stuck under the cabinet, and the strip can be cut to desired length. 300 LEDs in a 16' strip.

 

[begreen]

IKEA sells these too.

 

[PapaDave]

The problem I have is there are no outlets under most of my uppers.
That will be remedied at some point in the future when I redo the room, but I've considered using battery powered LED, if they're available.
The shadows from overhead lights drive me crazy.
Task lighting, instead of whole room lighting is a good idea in some instances.
We do have an LED light strip under the uppers in the laundry room over the washer/dryer that works well.

 

[1750]

We have incandescents on dimmers under the uppers (not my idea).

Does anyone know if I can just screw new bulb-type LEDs into the fixtures and not use the dimmers, or would I have to pull the dimmers and put in a new switch (with or without an LED dimmer)?

Thanks!

 

[begreen]

If the LED bulb is dimmable, yes that should work.

 

[1750]

Thanks, bg. I'll give that a try.

 

[begreen]

Pay attention to the LED bulb color temperature if this will be lighting food. Some cheap leds can be very bluish. For a similar light to incandescent find a bulb that is around 3000K in color temperature.

 

[1750]

Great to know and I'll do that.

Thanks again.

 

[Galt]

Visible light is roughly from 400 to 700 nanometers, or from wavelengths just above UV to just below IR. The spectrums in between range through a color wheel kind of progression beginning with purple on the low end, then blue, green, yellow, orange, red to white. Light sources may emit across the entire spectrum (from UV to IR say) but concentrate the majority of their visible light in a band from say 600 to 700 nanometers (mainly yellow to reds). There is also a corresponding color temperature scale (degrees Kelvin) and different marketing classifications for these visible light bands with the higher temps on the red end and the lower temps twoard the purple end. Most of the artificial light that we use is marketed as Soft White, Bright White, and Day Light, with the former being the more yellow and the latter being more intensly white. When you buy LED's you are likely getting an array of several specific nanometer diodes (eg., 620, 640 and 660) that do not have any other portion of light being emitted at any other wavelength, so they usually appear more harsh or intense. Fluorescents and CFL's are more like the incandescents and HID's in that they may be "rated" or marketed as say 6500 degree Kelvin temp. lamps because that's where the bulk of their light is but they may actually emit light across the entire spectrum as well. Don't recall exactly but I'm pretty sure that the fluorescents usually have the broadest spectral spread compared to others but they all vary as to what percentage of their visible light is focused close to their rated color temp. Generally people prefer the softer white for reading and the brighter to day light for color rendering and task lighting.

One thing about old eyes however is that you can never have enough, whichever temperature you choose. Again, old brain and I don't recall exactly but I think I read that someone over the age of 50 will require something like 50% more/brighter task light than say a 20 year old. I know that where I used to be comfortable with anything more than a candle working in my shop when I was younger, I now find fluorescents for general lighting mixed with more and brighter task lighting is barely tolerable. Sucks gettin' old.

 

[1750]

Thank you for the comprehensive response, Galt!

I will look for more task lighting!

 

[HybridFyre]

I was looking for LED lighting to replace the kitchen under cabinet lighting, now several halogen lights. Looked at LED strip lighting, just bought a 6' strip off of *bay, including the walwart transformer and dimmer, and I'm really impressed -- very bright, dimmable, and the 3 x 20 watt halogen lights now will be replaced with the strip light at 19 watts: brighter and more uniform under cabinet lighting. Also can dim down to 2 watts.

About $26 incl s/h. The strip has the LED's on an adhesive tape, which might need some help to keep the tape stuck under the cabinet, and the strip can be cut to desired length. 300 LEDs in a 16' strip.

Link to strip lighting or carrier? There's a lot of crap on eBay so I'd rather try one that gets good reviews from someone.

 

[jebatty]

First impression only as I haven't installed them yet. This is the seller's store. I got the 5050 LEDs. The seller has good ratings.
http://stores.ebay.com/thejonvh/

 

[1750]

I just bought a couple of the Feit 60 Watt LED (~$10 at Costco). I'm surprised at how heavy they are.

More to the point: I like the color (3000K) and brightness (850 Lumens). However, on a review site I was just reading it said:

The Feit LED can operate in temperatures between 27 and 81 degrees Fahrenheit. This temperature span is not as great as that of other products we reviewed. Additionally, this light bulb should never go in a fully enclosed light fixture because the LED bulb may overheat. (broken link removed)

Of course, it doesn't say anything about this on the packaging, and the application examples on the package even show a fully enclosed ceiling fixture. I had understood that LEDs weren't as susceptible to overheating. Alas.

Do you lighting geniuses think I should put the incandescents back in? (CFLs don't work here because this application is enclosed and inverted, and they appear to overheat. )

Thanks in advance!

 

[jebatty]

Heat will be a by-product of converting electricity to visible light for a long time to come. Various brands and designs of LED bulbs differ in heat output per watt of electricity as well as their ability to dissipate that heat without damaging the LED or electronic driver circuitry. Consequently, some LED bulbs need more open air circulation to get rid of damaging heat than other LED bulbs. As you discovered, it is important to pick an LED bulb designed for a particular application (enclosed or not enclosed, for example), and the cost likely will vary. The least expensive is not necessarily the best choice if it will not work in the desired application.

 

[jebatty]

Put the strip light up yesterday. The sticky tape sticks well to the varnished underside of our upper cabinets; time will tell whether or not it stays stuck. Also the tape permitted a bend in the strip around a 45* corner. The strip light is much brighter (can be dimmed down) that the three halogen lights it replaced. Also on full brightness 20w vs 65w as measured by the Kill-o-watt. Color is very white. Most importantly, my wife likes it.

When we remodeled our kitchen in 1996 we put a duplex wall outlet inside the cabinet just for the purpose of cabinet lighting. The outlet is switched by a wall switch along with other kitchen lighting. I tried taking a picture, but the pix doesn't really show the lighting very well.

 

[1750]

Heat will be a by-product of converting electricity to visible light for a long time to come. Various brands and designs of LED bulbs differ in heat output per watt of electricity as well as their ability to dissipate that heat without damaging the LED or electronic driver circuitry. Consequently, some LED bulbs need more open air circulation to get rid of damaging heat than other LED bulbs. As you discovered, it is important to pick an LED bulb designed for a particular application (enclosed or not enclosed, for example), and the cost likely will vary. The least expensive is not necessarily the best choice if it will not work in the desired application.

Thank you for this. The packaging never says don't use this for an enclosed application (and even shows such an application on the package). The only reference to not employing them like this is from the review site. Once again, if only I wasn't such a neurotic post-purchase product researcher, I'd be none the wiser.

I've left the LEDs in the enclosed fixture, and so far they seem to be doing very nicely. Of course, maybe the deleterious effect of the heat is cumulative and will primarily serve to shorten the lifespan of the bulb. Or, maybe the bulbs will outlast me.

 

[jebatty]

The LED bulbs I bought show on the packaging that they are to be used in\s a lamp that allows airflow from bottom to top, like most table lamps, and warns that because the bulbs are heavy, they need to be used in a lamp that will not tip. But like you, I put some bulbs in enclosed fixtures, one is the stove exhaust vent fixture that not only is enclosed but can get warm from using the stove, and I will wait and see how they do. One thing for sure, they put out a lot less heat than a CFL of similar watt equivalent rating.

 

[1750]

I think the heaviness is what surprised me the most. I wonder what all that mass is about?

The light quality is really good (much better than the CFLs), and I'm hoping they work for a long, long time.

Good luck!

 

[woodgeek]

I think the mass is in the heat sink. What heat the LED emitters make is quite localized and needs to be spread out over a large area.

 

[maple1]

I was looking for LED lighting to replace the kitchen under cabinet lighting, now several halogen lights. Looked at LED strip lighting, just bought a 6' strip off of *bay, including the walwart transformer and dimmer, and I'm really impressed -- very bright, dimmable, and the 3 x 20 watt halogen lights now will be replaced with the strip light at 19 watts: brighter and more uniform under cabinet lighting. Also can dim down to 2 watts.

About $26 incl s/h. The strip has the LED's on an adhesive tape, which might need some help to keep the tape stuck under the cabinet, and the strip can be cut to desired length. 300 LEDs in a 16' strip.

We've got an 18" double tube flourescent up over the kitchen sink that I want to replace by a LED strip.

It's hard-wired, with its switch down under one of my uppers.

I've been checking out Ebay but been getting lost in all the choices, and wasn't sure about some things.

Can these strips just be hard wired to a switched piece of romex? All I've seen seem to use a plug in adaptor/wall wart. Will I have to figure out how to wire in a receptacle up there so I can plug the strip in (and keep it all out of sight)?

Apparently these strips can be cut to length. But if you cut them in half, can you then somehow power both halves?

Can you provide more info so I can see exactly the unit you got? Again - way too many choices to wade through and I'm not 100% sure what I should be looking for.

 

[HybridFyre]

Maple...if they are hardwired to romex maybe you can pull enough out so you can mount a plug receptacle to it and just put it on top of your cabinets if you have access to the top and they don't go to the ceiling. That's what I did on mine. Getting ready to hook up my LED's next.

 

[jebatty]

Can these strips just be hard wired to a switched piece of romex? All I've seen seem to use a plug in adaptor/wall wart. Will I have to figure out how to wire in a receptacle up there so I can plug the strip in (and keep it all out of sight)?

The florescent likely is wired into a ceiling box. If the romex to the box provides a hot and neutral, then you probably can put a duplex or single receptacle cover on the box, plug the walwart into the receptacle, and then the low voltage walwart wire to the strip. The switch then will turn the strip on/off. If the romex runs hot/hot to the ceiling fixture, can't do.

But if you cut them in half, can you then somehow power both halves?

The info says the strips can be cut at marked points on the strip. Didn't do that, so can't give any particulars.

Can you provide more info so I can see exactly the unit you got?

This in the 6 foot length, with walwart and dimmer, is exactly what I got: This is the seller's store. I got the 5050 LEDs. The seller has good ratings.
http://stores.ebay.com/thejonvh/

 

[maple1]

Actually I think the romex comes into the flourescent fixture through a knockout in the fixture, is held there with a box connector, then wire nutted to the fixture wires inside its enclosure.

Guess I need to put a receptacle box up there & go from there. Now how to hide all that stuff...

 

[Dave A.]

This in the 6 foot length, with walwart and dimmer, is exactly what I got: This is the seller's store. I got the 5050 LEDs. The seller has good ratings.
http://stores.ebay.com/thejonvh/

Just checking that out and looks promising but a lot of unanswered questions. I'd like to replace my under cabinet florescents with them (f8t5 -- about 6 of them in 5 fixtures + 1 24" bulb, 3 fixtures are 12" for 18" cabinets plus a 24" fixture with 2 bulbs and a 36" with 1 + the 24" bulb -- 8' total, they're on about 16 hours/day and I replace the bulbs on line at a good price but cost about $40 (am guessing) every two-four years (bulbs last about a year and a half or so and I get a double order).

So these LED's might cost about the same but would last a lot longer -- maybe eight years or so, but would be harder to replace. Still being able to dim would be nice and probably make them last even longer plus elec consumption should be less assuming they are as bright.

But they don't list lumens so can't tell if they are as bright as what I have (about 330 lumens/ft new). And am not sure how I could do it. Right now I switch controls the room with romex running out under the cabinet at each fixture -- 1 wall run divided by window and corner, and another wall run on other side of room divided by stove.

So would need about 8' but not sure how to attach new wire to them if you cut the long strip into pieces, or if you need to buy separate pieces to get the lead wires. Also am not sure if the wiring can be run through the walls legally to do the other side of the room -- would need to run through attic above. Am assuming I'd have to take the romex to the first fixture and install an outlet with the wall wart in the cabinet above, drill a hole in the bottom of the cabinet to run the wire through. And hide the wiring (speaker wiring they indicate) behind the cabinet to run around the window to the second strip under the next cabinet. But then when I go to the other wall I'd have to run the speaker wire up through the attic and across to the other wall. It's only 12v so should be like running thermostats, not a problem, would think.

I realize there are a lot of questions. But maybe there might be a link to installation directions or a board that discusses installing them.

 

[jebatty]

They do list lumens. The website says 300 LEDs in a 16' strip, 15 lumens/LED. That's 300 x 15 / 16 = 281 lumens/foot. I can't advise how to cut the strips, wire together strips or partial strips. I think it is no more than soldering low voltage wire of suitable gauge between the contacts on the strips, but I haven't done it. Since these have a 12v power supply, there must be some sort of driver on the strip or wiring to power the LEDs on 12v, since LEDs operate on lower voltage.

My wife and I are very pleased with the light from the 6' strip I put up. Color is on the white side, not the red side like the prior halogens.