Lennox Grandview 300 questions

[Grandview 300]

Hey everyone new to the forum, I just have a few questions to see if anyone can help me out.
I have a Lennox grandview 300 new to me this burning season and have burning it for about a month now, most of you on the forum say that 700-750 stove top temps is normal burning in my manual it says once you reach 500 close the damper all the way as you are operating your appliance at too high of temperature, But if I do that won't that cause the stove temp to get a lot hotter because your keeping the heat in the stove and not let it go up the pipe? I have a prob flue temp gage and a stove top one and I have never seen my flue over 850 but have seen my stove top at 700 with the damper all the way closed so my question is is it over firing? And is this normal for the paint to be coming off the air wash baffle already?

 

[Sprinter]

I have never seen my flue over 850 but have seen my stove top at 700 with the damper all the way closed so my question is is it over firing? And is this normal for the paint to be coming off the air wash baffle already?

Welcome to the forum.

I can't speak about the paint, but everything else you've described sound normal.

I close my damper before 500 is reached. You can start turning the air down in steps when the flue is above creosote levels and the secondaries are burning. For me, that can be 300 or less. YMMV of course. But you will see many opinions on operating procedures here. I don't like my temp to be over 650 cruising, but 700 is not overfiring. Your manual may or may not tell you what they consider overfiring, but most don't seem to.

 

[Grandview 300]

Welcome to the forum.

I can't speak about the paint, but everything else you've described sound normal.

I close my damper before 500 is reached. You can start turning the air down in steps when the flue is above creosote levels and the secondaries are burning. For me, that can be 300 or less. YMMV of course. But you will see many opinions on operating procedures here. I don't like my temp to be over 650 cruising, but 700 is not overfiring. Your manual may or may not tell you what they consider overfiring, but most don't seem to.

Thanks,
I was just wondering if maybe the stove top temp was different where the grandview series has that thermal fin technology, because you can look under the stove top and when the stove top does get to the 700 mark the fins will be a dull red.
And the air wash baffel almost looks like the metal has got hot and expanded then contracted causing the paint to peal off..?

 

[Sprinter]

Thanks,
I was just wondering if maybe the stove top temp was different where the grandview series has that thermal fin technology, because you can look under the stove top and when the stove top does get to the 700 mark the fins will be a dull red.
And the air wash baffel almost looks like the metal has got hot and expanded then contracted causing the paint to peal off..?

For those here unfamiliar with the fins, could you post a pic of that? This sounds like a question best answered by the dealer or someone familiar with that model.. I'm not. Dull red glowing starts at about 850 or 900. Maybe that's okay for the Grandview, but I would get with the dealer or Lennox about that before continuing, especially if the baffle looks like it's been too hot as well. I'm not comfortable with that.

Hopefully, someone here is familiar with that model. The fin thing is unique to that stove.

 

[Grandview 300]

For those here unfamiliar with the fins, could you post a pic of that? This sounds like a question best answered by the dealer or someone familiar with that model.. I'm not. Dull red glowing starts at about 850 or 900. Maybe that's okay for the Grandview, but I would get with the dealer or Lennox about that before continuing, especially if the baffle looks like it's been too hot as well. I'm not comfortable with that.

Hopefully, someone here is familiar with that model. The fin thing is unique to that stove.

See that's the thing I live in a small town and the stove shop I deal with that's the first grandview he's had come through his store so I contacted him and he didn't know he was going to contact Lennox and get back to me but that's been two weeks ago..... As you can tell the tell the service ain't great but I didn't have a choice because I had a osburn 2000 first and I had the luck of getting one that they had the problems with the tops warping but SBI stood behind it so I didn't have a choice but to get another stove though that dealer, so maybe I am kind of scared of that happening to this one.
That's why I was hoping someone on here could maybe help me out.

 

[Sprinter]

Do you have the blower option? I'm sure that would decrease the fin temps.

 

[Grandview 300]

Do you have the blower option? I'm sure that would decrease the fin temps.

Yes I do, and that's with the blower on.
Is there a way to upload pictures on a mobile device ?

 

[Sprinter]

Unfortunately, there are only a few members here that I've seen with a Grandview because they are fairly new. Let's see if some other members here can offer some insight.

Meanwhile, a few general questions. Was it the stove top or the baffle on the Osburn that warped and did the tubes warp or sag? What kind of wood are you burning? How tall is your flue from stove to cap? Have you checked for any air leakage, like around the door gasket, etc? Freestanding or insert?

 

[Grandview 300]

Unfortunately, there are only a few members here that I've seen with a Grandview because they are fairly new. Let's see if some other members here can offer some insight.

Meanwhile, a few general questions. Was it the stove top or the baffle on the Osburn that warped? What kind of wood are you burning? How tall is your flue from stove to cap? Have you checked for any air leakage, like around the door gasket, etc?

It was the stove top itself, the secondary burn tubes and baffel was fine just the top and the front above the door was warped abit to.

As for wood all hard wood I get delivered in 5 cord loads and cut,split, and stack it then bring it in the next year so it's good and dry.

The stove pipe in all 6" I would say around 25' or so from stove top to cap, the stove is in my basement so it goes out through my foundation then straight up.

 

[Grandview 300]

Unfortunately, there are only a few members here that I've seen with a Grandview because they are fairly new. Let's see if some other members here can offer some insight.

Meanwhile, a few general questions. Was it the stove top or the baffle on the Osburn that warped and did the tubes warp or sag? What kind of wood are you burning? How tall is your flue from stove to cap? Have you checked for any air leakage, like around the door gasket, etc? Freestanding or insert?

Unfortunately, there are only a few members here that I've seen with a Grandview because they are fairly new. Let's see if some other members here can offer some insight.

Meanwhile, a few general questions. Was it the stove top or the baffle on the Osburn that warped and did the tubes warp or sag? What kind of wood are you burning? How tall is your flue from stove to cap? Have you checked for any air leakage, like around the door gasket, etc? Freestanding or insert?

No leaks and freestanding.

 

[Sprinter]

Okay, so the Osburn warping was a known problem for Osburn that had happened to others I take it?

I don't know. I wouldn't think that glowing fins would be considered normal especially with the blower on. The blower flows directly over them. I think you're going to have to get more assertive with Lennox for those answers.

Stick around, though, others will come along...

 

[BrotherBart]

I just looked at a cut-away of the stove. You will get a good temp reading on the lower step halfway from the front of the top plate to the rear step when the blower isn't running.

 

[BrotherBart]

I don't know. I wouldn't think that glowing fins would be considered normal especially with the blower on. The blower flows directly over them. I think you're going to have to get more assertive with Lennox for those answers.

With this design glowing fins would be normal. This brochure has a cutaway pic of the design.

(broken link removed)

 

[Sprinter]

Oh, thanks. That tells it all. The fins are more exposed to the firebox.

I still don't know about the paint peeling issue, but you sound okay. The Osburn thing was a flag to me, but it sounds unrelated.

FWIW, I looked at the Grandview when I was shopping and I liked it a lot. It's a new model, but looks like a good one.

 

[Grandview 300]

I just looked at a cut-away of the stove. You will get a good temp reading on the lower step halfway from the front of the top plate to the rear step when the blower isn't running.

So really if I was reading 700 on the stove top with the blower on it was really a lot hotter.

I should also mention that I live on the water so I do get a lot of wind in the winter!

 

[BrotherBart]

It really depends if the thermo sits high enough for the blower air to get under it and distort the reading. But most likely, it was hotter.

But 800 or 900 degrees occasionally ain't gonna bust that stove. When they UL tested it they got it a whole lot hotter than that.

 

[Grandview 300]

It really depends if the thermo sits high enough for the blower air to get under it and distort the reading. But most likely, it was hotter.

But 800 or 900 degrees occasionally ain't gonna bust that stove. When they UL tested it they got it a whole lot hotter than that.

What is UL tested mean?

I have the thermo on the Lower step about 6-8 inches back from the door in the middle of the stove.
I've only seen it that hot twice and it was blowing quite hard, and when it gets that hot is it normal to be able to see the stove top warp? Then go back to normal once the stove is cold?

 

[Dave A.]

I get the impression that most stoves can take the occasional burst of high temps, but, if you consistently run your stove hot, it's going to wear out sooner than if you ran it cooler.

 

[BrotherBart]

So now we are seeing stove top warping? Did I miss seeing that mentioned above and how do you know it is warping?

And what is an air wash baffle? Anything inside that stove is gonna lose the paint once you start burning in it.

 

[BrotherBart]

Your manual says to turn the air all the way down if the temp is approaching 500 degrees. Good luck with holding a fully loaded stove that size at 500. It will cruise up to around 650 or 700 after you close it down and cruise for a while and then settle down to 500 or so then 450 etc. Seven hundred degrees isn't gonna warp any quality steel stove like that Grandview lately. You just don't want to operate it at a continuous temp that high. You close it down at five hundred or so to prevent it from going to really, really high temps after closing it down.

Get concerned if it keeps climbing over that 700. I do. But I had an incident last year where my steel stove hit a thousand degrees. My fault. And it lived through it and is still sitting there heating my house. Unbroken.

 

[Grandview 300]

So now we are seeing stove top warping? Did I miss seeing that mentioned above and how do you know it is warping?

And what is an air wash baffle? Anything inside that stove is gonna lose the paint once you start burning in it.

I noticed it one night and put a four foot level across it and it was a bit, but soon as it cools off it goes back to normal. So is that normal just the metal expanding from the heat then contracting when it cools?
I don't know what it's called it's the strip of metal that goes across the top of the door opening that the air comes through to keep the glass clean.

 

[BrotherBart]

That strip of metal across the top of the door opening is inside a firebox that gets up to 1200 degrees. That paint doesn't have a chance of living past the first couple of good fires. Rest. Not a problem.

With those fins red hot under the stove top I guess I can picture it bowing a little. And wouldn't worry about it. Now if the stove top was glowing that is a whole nother thing. A manufacturer told me that when the UL, ULC in Canada, tests stove for safety clearances they burn the suckers around 1,400 degrees for worst case testing. That is whole stove glowing territory.

Your stove is doing fine and ain't gonna split down the middle.

 

[Grandview 300]

That strip of metal across the top of the door opening is inside a firebox that gets up to 1200 degrees. That paint doesn't have a chance of living past the first couple of good fires. Rest. Not a problem.

With those fins red hot under the stove top I guess I can picture it bowing a little. And wouldn't worry about it. Now if the stove top was glowing that is a whole nother thing. A manufacturer told me that when the UL, ULC in Canada, tests stove for safety clearances they burn the suckers around 1,400 degrees for worst case testing. That is whole stove glowing territory.

Your stove is doing fine and ain't gonna split down the middle.

Where it does get quite windy here at times, and with a tall flue should I maybe get a damper put in the stove pipe to keep it under control? Because like I said I shut it down when the stove top gets around 400 but when it's windy the flue temp don't go up but the the fire box rages and gets to the 700 mark pretty quick.

 

[BrotherBart]

Hurts nothing to give it a try. Just be sure to remember to open the flue damper before you open the stove door or you will get a face full of smoke.

 

[Grandview 300]

This is what I was talking about last night with the paint coming off.