For most of my splitting, I use a splitting axe with a fiberglass handle that I bought at Lowes. This works great. It looks similar in design to the Fiskars Super Splitting axe (at least from the side) - it is not a conventional splitting axe, but has a curve to the head that does a great job of pushing the wood apart at the split point. It weighs in the neighborhood of 4-6 lbs - I could swing this all day. If that's what Gerry100 is talking about, then I agree that you don't need the Fiskars product.
For really big rounds, I have a Monster Maul. This is a 10-12 lb. beast. You definitely have to be standing on solid, non-slippery ground or you are wishing for some problems here. Once, my foot slipped just a little when it was coming down, and I pulled a groin muscle that took months to heal. You also have to have technique right - swing it fluidly, let the weight do the work, don't try to muscle it - just guide it. By the way, I'm 150 lbs. and what would be considered a slight build. It's all in the technique. The less you try to muscle this thing (or any axe, for that matter), the longer you can do it.
It's been years since I used a maul and wedge. Frankly, I've had too many times where things go flying everywhere - a glancing blow from the maul to the wedge makes the maul move unpredictably, or the wedge comes flying out of the log. I don't miss using these two tools.
I don't use a rubber tire to hold the wood - just too much of an extra step. Plus, the wood is sitting too low for me. I have a 20" high Elm splitting round that I put my wood on to split. This is the right height for me. It takes the blows of the splitter without splitting itself. I have a backup spare Elm splitting round if I ever get lucky and split my main round
Hockey injuries to each shoulder (torn labrum, partial separation) don't keep me from doing this. Actually, swinging an axe is a great way to keep them loose the muscles around the shoulder strong so the joint stays nicely held together. It seems counterintuitive, but it's only when I don't do work using my shoulders that some aches and pains recur.
Realistically, nowadays, my father-in-laws hydraulic splitter comes in pretty handy for knocking big rounds down to 8-10" or so pieces right away when green so that it can dry and season faster. Then I split the remainder by hand throughout the winter. I like the exercise in the winter time, and a hydraulic splitter takes too long to make smaller pieces for my 1.6 cu ft. stove. With the hydraulic splitter, I definitely need a buddy to make it most productive, someone who has run a splitter before, pays attention, and works the lever to make it lower and raise. Then I can concentrate on moving wood over and out. Any OSHA lovers on this site won't like to hear that, and it violates all the "safety" warnings on the splitter, but it is about 3-4x faster than running one solo. My father-in-law works great as the buddy since he can just sit in a chair and push a lever up and down. Wife has helped out on occasion also, but her attention can wander (not what I want with a 20+ ton hydraulic wedge moving around). Still, she helps out, and I can't complain. Not everyone is so lucky, I've read.
! I've also got some birch and elm (i think)..it splits harder but still splits nice after a couple hits. I don't bother to take my wedge and go-devil any more just the Fiskars. If I get a real tough knotty one I'll just 'soften' it up with the chainsaw a little. 
