Light mods to a NC-30

[Charlie2]

Okay, first, define my perceived problem.----Don't like the term of anything "going nuclear" in my shop, it makes me fearful and I don't like being fearful.

Fixing the problem----Being able to control all air sources.

On my 30, using a inspection mirror, it would appear the primary air source can be completely shut down, with only a tiny gap .093 x .5". So I think that is okay, but I've heard different. The sliding plate does just float over the hole and I'm not sure if a strong draft could pick that up and allow uncontrolled air to enter. (flue fire?) Anyone know?

I think I've figured out a way to control the secondary air with a push/pull arrangement. After I make and test it I'll show it.

That leaves the "doghouse", they have and do spend a lot of time and money making all the parts for the "doghouse" so it must serve an important function, but I don't know what, other than to inject air into the back of the deep firebox. I know the magnet trick, but it's still not full control, probably will want to put a full control on that as well.

If I can control all these air sources will I be able to leave my stove unattended over night with a full load?

I appreciate any helpful advice offered.

 

[bholler]

Is this a continuation of another thread? i am a little confused. Why and how are you modifying it?

 

[Jags]

will I be able to leave my stove unattended over night with a full load?

You should be able to do that with a factor original. No mods needed. Have you had past issues or are you anticipating issues?

 

[Charlie2]

Jags, Just based on all the threads where "my 30 went nuclear" has me worried. People removing the "doghouse", people covering up half the secondary air source, the magnet trick on the doghouse. So yes it's me anticipating and being preemptive. Having lost some stuff do to fire, I'm cautious. I'm certainly not bashing the stove, I love it, but have only run it a little last winter and it did get a little rowdy a couple of times.

 

[Charlie2]

bholler, No this is a new thread, if there is an old thread that addresses these issues I'm sorry, but I searched the topic as best I could.

 

[Jags]

In your case, I would probably suggest a key damper and forgo all the special mods. If the air can't get out it can't get in (meaning: cut off the draft). AND you would still have a factory stove that can be insured.

 

[Charlie2]

Yes, I have a damper ready to install and will do so, thanks. There's problem with insurance though, too much high priced equipment in a pole barn, doesn't bode well with insurance companies.

On hind sight, this thread is probably harmful, besides I don't really need any help screwing things up.

Can I kill the whole thread, or would you do if for me?

 

[BrotherBart]

A key damper in the pipe will take care of concerns if you have a tall pipe that causes exciting moments. I just couldn't put in a damper because of my in the fireplace installation so that is why I came up with the magnets to adjust doghouse and secondary air with my Hoover like liner. Pulling the doghouse was to get even air distribution across the front of N/S loads. I actually put is back in last season. To provide a concentrated air source when I sometimes use the pellet basket.

 

[Highbeam]

I use an NC30 in my pole barn and have not modified the stove as you describe. It is very controllable for a non-cat.

 

[Charlie2]

Thanks Bart, I certainly don't blame you for my insecurities, but I do hold your opinion in high regard as well as others on this board, so when you talk, I listen.
Anyway, I have the means and ability to make or modify, but I realize now this site is probably not the best place for these types of questions. I'm more of an experimenter and most folks here really aren't in to that, a thread like this may only serve to confuse.
So unless you want to let it run to clear things up, please just remove it.

 

[kennyp2339]

Not to sound like a "bully" but what determines nuclear? is it fire everywhere in the firebox, is it a glowing stove pipe collar, or is a rip roar chimney fire? Fire everywhere happens to me a couple times a year, sometimes I don't turn the air damper down fast enough and I look into the stove and every piece is ripping fire, you can almost hear a little roar when you open the door, It that's what your talking about, then the stove can handle it, Its a little unnerving but as long as you shut the air down you'll will be fine in 10min.

 

[Charlie2]

I use an NC30 in my pole barn and have not modified the stove as you describe. It is very controllable for a non-cat.

Highbeam, You have the Grand Hilton of pole barns. We live in less than that down here.
I'll run it and get use to it.
Thanks

 

[Highbeam]

Highbeam, You have the Grand Hilton of pole barns. We live in less than that down here.
I'll run it and get use to it.
Thanks

I too live in less than my pole barn. Just building it has been a hobby, a nice distraction from the regular life. When building a pole barn the per SF costs really go down as you go bigger.

Can't wait to start burning the NC30 out there again. I have a huge pile of "barn wood" that is too good for the firepit but not good enough to load into the house stove.

 

[Charlie2]

Not to sound like a "bully" but what determines nuclear? is it fire everywhere in the firebox, is it a glowing stove pipe collar, or is a rip roar chimney fire? Fire everywhere happens to me a couple times a year, sometimes I don't turn the air damper down fast enough and I look into the stove and every piece is ripping fire, you can almost hear a little roar when you open the door, It that's what your talking about, then the stove can handle it, Its a little unnerving but as long as you shut the air down you'll will be fine in 10min.

Hi Kenny, If you do a search on "going nuclear" you can see what I'm talking about. I didn't invent the term. As far as shutting down the air and you'll be fine, I won't be there to shut down the air, that's the point.

 

[Highbeam]

Not to sound like a "bully" but what determines nuclear? is it fire everywhere in the firebox, is it a glowing stove pipe collar, or is a rip roar chimney fire? Fire everywhere happens to me a couple times a year, sometimes I don't turn the air damper down fast enough and I look into the stove and every piece is ripping fire, you can almost hear a little roar when you open the door, It that's what your talking about, then the stove can handle it, Its a little unnerving but as long as you shut the air down you'll will be fine in 10min.

The NC30 really does make a roar when burning. Must be from all of thos air inlets.

Nuclear for most folks means a runaway. As in, despite shutting the air down the fire continues to roar and grow and the stovetop temps continue to climb. I've had this happen in a Lopi and my hearthstone, but not in the NC30 or the BK. It really is not a good feeling to have and in an unattended fire situation I don't leave until the fire has settled.

 

[Charlie2]

I too live in less than my pole barn. Just building it has been a hobby, a nice distraction from the regular life. When building a pole barn the per SF costs really go down as you go bigger.

Can't wait to start burning the NC30 out there again. I have a huge pile of "barn wood" that is too good for the firepit but not good enough to load into the house stove.

I love my "Highbeam stove hearth"!

 

[Charlie2]

The NC30 really does make a roar when burning. Must be from all of thos air inlets.

Nuclear for most folks means a runaway. As in, despite shutting the air down the fire continues to roar and grow and the stovetop temps continue to climb. I've had this happen in a Lopi and my hearthstone, but not in the NC30 or the BK. It really is not a good feeling to have and in an unattended fire situation I don't leave until the fire has settled.

Highbeam, Where I was going and probably will still go, just for the fun of it, is to incorporate a PLC, (programmable logic computer), thermocouples and an automatic damper control system. It should be fun to design and I've got most if not all the stuff laying around.
I was really just fishing for what some of the experts think would be best to control. If I shut down the main air supply, then the fire is still being fed by the secondaries, that would be easy to control.

 

[Highbeam]

This stove has four air inlets. Modifying the stove creates insurance, liability, and other legal problems. An inline flue damper is more effective and avoids the legal issues. Easier to control with your computer stuff too.

A simple snap switch set for 800-1000 degrees on the stove top which would then flop the damper to full closed would seem to be a decent idea. The damper would otherwise remain fully open.

 

[Charlie2]

This stove has four air inlets. Modifying the stove creates insurance, liability, and other legal problems. An inline flue damper is more effective and avoids the legal issues. Easier to control with your computer stuff too.

A simple snap switch set for 800-1000 degrees on the stove top which would then flop the damper to full closed would seem to be a decent idea. The damper would otherwise remain fully open.

If you slammed shut the damper, wouldn't smoke pour out into the building? I could make it so in incrementally closed, but I didn't know you could control the fire after the fire so to speak. I thought that would cause a positive pressure, I was thinking controlling the intake side, but the flue damper would be very easy.

 

[BrotherBart]

If needed you close the primary intake and then the pipe damper. The pipe damper has openings in the middle that do not allow it to completely block the flue.

And issues you might have with the stove taking off on you are easily controlled by just slapping something over that rectangular hole under the back of the firebox. That shuts down the secondary air and the stove goes to it's knees. Only had to do it one time and with the back half of the stove being inside a tight fireplace fit I did not enjoy it.

 

[Charlie2]

Thanks Bart, Got it.

 

[Highbeam]

If you slammed shut the damper, wouldn't smoke pour out into the building? I could make it so in incrementally closed, but I didn't know you could control the fire after the fire so to speak. I thought that would cause a positive pressure, I was thinking controlling the intake side, but the flue damper would be very easy.

The flue dampers are only partial blockages when fully closed. Holes in the middle and a large outer diameter difference.

I don't have the experience to say for sure but I suspect that you could flip a flue damper shut at any intake damper setting and get the same result. In other words, it is not necessary to have first closed the intake for this emergency overfire stop to be effective.

 

[Charlie2]

Thanks Highbeam, I'll be sure to try it after cold weather gets here! Right now I'm finishing up the manual secondary air control, its pretty easy to make. I'll take a photo and post it in case anyone is interested. Then I'll install the key damper, with these two additions it sounds like I won't need anything fancy.

 

[begreen]

I would second the advice to not modify the stove at all until one has a season of burning with it. The mfg. spent a lot of time in R&D to get this stove right. Making a mod early can lead to a lot of tail chasing as one learns how the stove runs. If the wood is not well seasoned restricting the boost or secondary air can actually work against having a successful burn. Adding a key damper to the stove pipe is a safe and effective way to control draft without modifying the stove. Try running with the pipe damper open at all times during mild weather and see how the stove behaves. It might only be needed as a safety valve.

 

[Charlie2]

Thanks begreen. I'll show what I've done in these pictures, I don't know if this would be considered a modification or not, but I don't think having more control is ever a bad choice. This is a simple bolt on affair, no holes or welds involved.

Well, I was going to send a couple of photos, but the "upload a File" isn't working for me. I'll try again later this year after I've run it some.