Liner clearance question?

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Newbe1

Member
Jan 4, 2009
22
Idaho
I just picked up a little Lopi Answer insert, and I have a couple questions about the install. The inside of my masonary chimney is only 6.5"X15"wide and 15' tall. Do I need to be concerned about clearance installing a 6" stainless liner without insulation? I guess another option might be to ovalize the liner to 4.5" to maintain the 1" clearance the manufacture recomends. I just don't know if it is that important on a stove with max BTU of 66,000. I am also wondering what I should do to insulate around the liner where it goes through the old chimney dampener? Thanks
Bill
 
If the chimney interior is nice and straight, you might consider installing an oval, rigid, insulated liner like Simpson 4648-OP. It has 0" clearance.
 
It is straight for the last 13', but for the first 2' I have to go at about a 45 degree angle untill I get through the dampener.
 
They make an oval to oval, flex pipe section in 36" and 60" length to handle this. You'll also need an oval to round pipe (14" long) to connect to the stove.
 
Thanks for the reply. I am wondering if I should be concerned about trying to seal aroud the liner where it goes through the dampner.
 
Newbe1 said:
Thanks for the reply. I am wondering if I should be concerned about trying to seal aroud the liner where it goes through the dampner.
Yes. With unfaced fibreglas insulation or a block-off plate...
The insulation is the quicker & easier way to achieve the desired effects.
Some here will indicate that the SAFER way is with the block-off plate, but that's probably gonna be debated until we figger out which came first - the chicken or the egg?

BTW, it was the chicken! :cheese:
 
Ah hah! I found someone who has used unfaced fiberglass insulation instead of a block off plate in the damper area ! I started a post about this yesterday, not many responses.
Please help: I have a bunch of new faced fiberglass insulation, which I would like to tear off the paper faceing and stuff into the damper area between the ss liner and the smoke shelf above my wood insert. Is this acceptable? I heard of using rockwoll type insulation. If fiberglass is ok to use, whats the hype about the rockwool? I will eventually make a block off plate in the spring when I pull out the insert.
 
Hey brink!

<>Ah hah! I found someone who has used unfaced fiberglass insulation instead of a block off plate in the damper area !<>

Yep, been doing it MYSELF for over 8 years...The company had been doing for over 30 - WITH NO ISSUES.

<>I started a post about this yesterday, not many responses.<>

Lotta guys won't touch the subject, unless to disagree with it, it seems. I don't know why...
Like I said above, we've been doing it for a while...I did it around a 6" SS liner in my own chimney when I burned my Regency I3100L...
Never had an issue - burning 5-7 cords a season for 3 - 4 winters. When I pulled it out the insulation was in exactly the same condition as when I put it in...

<>Please help: I have a bunch of new faced fiberglass insulation, which I would like to tear off the paper faceing and stuff into the damper area between the ss liner and the smoke shelf above my wood insert. Is this acceptable? <>

Yes, it is totally acceptable - in my experience. It's fiberglas. As far as I know fiberglas does not ignite...

<>I heard of using rockwoll type insulation. If fiberglass is ok to use, whats the hype about the rockwool?<>

Either one is acceptable. Neither one is combustible. There are people here who will argue against the use of fiberglas, but it's made from sand & recycled glass & doesn't burn

<>I will eventually make a block off plate in the spring when I pull out the insert<>

If you want to do it, fine, I personally feel that it's not necessary, but I'm not a building inspector with JHA & a red tag that can put the kibosh on an install...
 
Thanks very much for clearing that up Daksy. I will plug some fiberglass in there tonight. Seems a whole lot easier than making a sheetmetal plate and all that goes with putting it in.
 
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