Liner transition

[Fieldwork]

Hey guys.
New to the Hearth.

Background: I'm adding a MF NOVA stove to my existing masonry fireplace. I've ran a chimney liner. There is not enough room for insulation wrap, so I am just going to pour Vermiculite for insulation -- (I'm in Michigan, near Lake Michigan..it gets cold here, so I am thinking I'll definitely need it).

Since my existing chimney was built way before the 10' & 2' codes, I also have to extend my pipe above the ridge of the house. I am looking at the Class A double walled stuff. For example, I am leaning towards 48" piece since it will get me above the minimum of where I need to be and also do the job of helping with draft. I am looking at the Shasta

However, I cannot seem to find any information about how to connect the chimney liner to the rigid outdoor pipe.

I guess I am looking for a transition plate, for example (broken link removed to https://www.northlineexpress.com/6-shasta-vent-masonry-anchor-plate-less-than-perfect.html)

Has anyone any info on this? Has anyone also installed something similar?

My concern is that I purchase all of this and it ends up having the same inside diameter as the flex liner, in which case how do I hook the flex liner to the class A stuff?



Any help would be appreciated.

 

[begreen]

Is there a reason why a preinsulated liner was not used?
It helps to have one system to do the transition. Then you can use the manufacturer's engineered system.
This is Duravent's system for their preinsulated DuraLiner. I don't see a similar solution in the Shasta line.

 

[bholler]

Hey guys.
New to the Hearth.

Background: I'm adding a MF NOVA stove to my existing masonry fireplace. I've ran a chimney liner. There is not enough room for insulation wrap, so I am just going to pour Vermiculite for insulation -- (I'm in Michigan, near Lake Michigan..it gets cold here, so I am thinking I'll definitely need it).

Since my existing chimney was built way before the 10' & 2' codes, I also have to extend my pipe above the ridge of the house. I am looking at the Class A double walled stuff. For example, I am leaning towards 48" piece since it will get me above the minimum of where I need to be and also do the job of helping with draft. I am looking at the Shasta

However, I cannot seem to find any information about how to connect the chimney liner to the rigid outdoor pipe.

I guess I am looking for a transition plate, for example (broken link removed to https://www.northlineexpress.com/6-shasta-vent-masonry-anchor-plate-less-than-perfect.html)

Has anyone any info on this? Has anyone also installed something similar?

My concern is that I purchase all of this and it ends up having the same inside diameter as the flex liner, in which case how do I hook the flex liner to the class A stuff?



Any help would be appreciated.

If you don't have room for wrap you certainly don't have room for pour in. Wrap only needs to be 1/2" pour in needs to be 1".

 

[Fieldwork]

If you don't have room for wrap you certainly don't have room for pour in. Wrap only needs to be 1/2" pour in needs to be 1".

The flue is shaped like a rectangle. The 6" liner touches the side of the clay tiles on two sides, but the width is different: there is about 4" of space on either side. That is why I thought of the pour method.
thoughts?

 

[Fieldwork]

Is there a reason why a preinsulated liner was not used?
It helps to have one system to do the transition. Then you can use the manufacturer's engineered system.
This is Duravent's system for their preinsulated DuraLiner. I don't see a similar solution in the Shasta line.

View attachment 270126

thanks for the image this will help, looks like the hanger is what I am looking for.
The reason I didn't go with the a preinsulated liner is because I was stupid and didn't do enough research. When shopping for a liner I saw the basic SS liner and wrap stuff, so I went with that. I measured it out - it would fit down the chimney for the first several feet but the flue is slightly tighter as it goes down the chimney.

I'm new at this and saw the wrap so I just got that, but it didn't work: I wrapped it, and then began to try to fish the liner down and ended up having to take it all off on the roof.

Basically, the existing clay tiled flue is a rectangle shape, and the 6" liner touches the side on two sides while there is a gap of about 4" on either side. That is why I figured to pour insulation to close the gap.

The masonry has a clay flue, so I am wondering if this will really be a problem? (with it touching the side of the masonry).
Should I just eat the cost and purchase another liner? - pre-insulated. A lot of expense there.

 

[bholler]

The flue is shaped like a rectangle. The 6" liner touches the side of the clay tiles on two sides, but the width is different: there is about 4" of space on either side. That is why I thought of the pour method.
thoughts?

If it is touching the sides the pour in insulation isn't doing its job of stopping heat transfer and protecting your house. You need an oval liner.

 

[begreen]

Yes, I would pull the current liner and sell it. Then get a complete system to resolve the issue. It will cost more, but it will be done right.
Exactly how high does the chimney need to be raised to meet the 10-3-2 requirement? How tall will this make the flue system from stove top to chimney cap?