Liner with vermiculite (oddball question)

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Nov 28, 2014
4
Northern IL
Hi,
I have read a lot on here over the last year but still have one lingering question.

Should I remove the liner, remove clay tiles then insulate and reinstall? I will describe the install as best I can.

1949 heat form with 4 natural draft vents in the brick face. No rust through of soot shelf. Vents now closed.

Fireplace is in basement of 1 story ranch with internal chimney that has a separate
Clay flue for furnace.

Existing clay tiles intact but motor joints at the top are gone. Full brick chimney, one course only till the attic when it steps up to 3 courses before the box framing for roof.

23' tall 6" corrugated liner. Vertical flue is 7x11 I.d. with 14" offset. Cut the old soot shelf and removed damper to accommodate the new liner (full length to new cap). Obviously I did not have the room for ceramic wrap.

Installed throat plate and back filled with poured vermiculite. There are most certainly locations where the stainless liner touched the clay.

Two sides of the chimney are finished with plaster. The other 2 sides had walls built directly against them. It also had the box framing for the basement ceiling and first floor ceiling actually stuck in the mortar for the brick.

So being as obsessive as I am I tore it all out. Cleaned up the mortar buggers and skimmed with 7/8" to 1" type s mortar.

Then reinstalled the box framing and walls 3" from the sides of the chimney. Installed wire mesh on the rear of the wall studs then insulate with Rockwool. The only contact is the edge of the subfloor on the furnace side and rear.

Other than the subfloor there is no contact with the chimney until the roof framing (3 course brick)

My concern is safety. So should I remove the clay the wrap the liner or leave it as is?


Joe
 
My concern is safety. So should I remove the clay the wrap the liner or leave it as is?
Technically because the roof framing is touching to meet code you should insulate properly. But in reality because you have 2 courses up there and have clearance everywhere else you are probably fine. As a pro I cant tell you that it is ok the way it is but the risk is fairly low.
 
Technically because the roof framing is touching to meet code you should insulate properly. But in reality because you have 2 courses up there and have clearance everywhere else you are probably fine. As a pro I cant tell you that it is ok the way it is but the risk is fairly low.
Thanks for the honest response. Restores a little faith in the world.
 
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Thanks for the honest response. Restores a little faith in the world.
It does not meet code so i have to say it is not right but it is close
 
I presume that your experience tells you that the house won't burn down. Good stuff.
Probably not but there is absolutely no way I could ever say that even if it was done to code.