log splitter help!!!

[cklawn]

Okay guys I'm stumped I have a yard machines 26 tin splitter and I thought the motor was going bad because it was hard to start when it did start it would die then you had to leave it sit then start and die and once it did get running you couldnt think about splitting wood for atleast 30 minutes or it would stall the motor even with no load so I got a new harbour fright motor and it run good starts on the first pull but as soon as I hook it up to the hydro pump the pull rope is so hard to pull that it won't start so I think it may be a bad pump but I have no idea any help would be nice

 

[ErikR]

Is this a cold weather thing? What are you using for hydraulic fluid??


Oh, and welcome to hearth.com

 

[Butcher]

Things I would check first. Pump, fluid, filter, valve, restricted hose. Iffn there are any cheap hoses on this thing they can collapse from the inside and look good on the outside.

 

[triptester]

I would start by removing the spark plug wire and the hose that goes between the pump and control valve at the valve. Place the end of the hose in a container or the tank fill port. Pull the start rope to check resistance. If the engine turns eazier then the problem is not with the pump. Check the control valve to see if it is centering itself. When operating the lever the spool should move an equal amount in each direction about 1/4".

 

[bluedogz]

The original problem sounds like it might have even been a fuel supply issue. Swapping a motor is a very expensive way to troubleshoot a carburetor.

 

[Sully]

Me and a buddy tried to fire up his the other day. It sat all summer and it brand new. Was a no go. It actually would not start. It would fire up with starter fluid but would burn that right off. Eventually pulling it apart and cleaning carb was the issue. I'm a big hater of ethanol fuel. Seems to cause issues on every tool I have that is bit started on a weekly basis.

 

[cklawn]

Hello guys I'm in Ohio and it's fairly cold out and the original problem was affected if the unit got cold. However I'm using regular log splitter hydro fluid from tractor supply. And another reason I changed out the motor was because when I changed the oil the past 2 times it's had a decent amount of metal shavings with in the oil I'm very mechanically inclined except for hydraulic systems. And with the old motor I did rebuild the carb and reguarlly mainteneced it and even ran seafoam in the gas because I too am not a fan of ethanol gas I rebuild boat motors on the side and see what it does to them. I will check the hose between the pump and the control valve today I just wasn't sure if it sounded like a valve stickin or what this thing is drivinng me nuts!

 

[bluedogz]

Me and a buddy tried to fire up his the other day. It sat all summer and it brand new. Was a no go. It actually would not start. It would fire up with starter fluid but would burn that right off. Eventually pulling it apart and cleaning carb was the issue. I'm a big hater of ethanol fuel. Seems to cause issues on every tool I have that is bit started on a weekly basis.

Sta-bil Marine (the red stuff) solved the problem for me.

 

[Trktrd]

I just bite the bullet and pay the extra $$ for the non-ethanol when filling cans for the small engines. Plus a splash of Sta-Bil in every can,

 

[Hogwildz]

Start by replacing the spark plug with a good new one and checking the gap prior to install.
Went through this a couple years ago. Put a new carb only to find the spark plug went to shat. Ran fine the season before, then was crap when I went to start it the next year. In my case, merely needed a new plug.

 

[G6 at Snook TX]

Not a big fan of the red Sta-Bil. It caused some issue with my winterized gas this year. Star tron is my go to for stabilizer.

 

[shmodaddy]

SEA FOAM!

 

[Fifelaker]

Thick hydro oil. If it is that bad you may have to use ATF.

 

[D8Chumley]

I use Star Tron also, no issues yet

 

[redmule]

I use Star Tron also, no issues yet

Same Here

 

[smoke eater]

Sta-bil Marine (the red stuff) solved the problem for me.

actually the marine sta-bil is a blue-green. I use 89 octane and any stabil or startron I have laying around. I also pull ALL my machines out of the garage every month or two and run them for 20 minutes. might be overkill to some, but I've had good luck with my machines this way.

 

[ErikR]

cklawn, Any news on getting things going????

 

[bluedogz]

actually the marine sta-bil is a blue-green. I use 89 octane and any stabil or startron I have laying around. I also pull ALL my machines out of the garage every month or two and run them for 20 minutes. might be overkill to some, but I've had good luck with my machines this way.

My mistake... label is red/white, but the stuff itself is dark. Still worked for me, though.

 

[1kzwoman]

Classic checks .fresh plug properly gapped, clean fuel..fuel filter, clean air filter, clean motor oil for temp range, clear exhaust path,

My splitter has belt relief system for cold starts and electric start) Swisher 34 ton. 8+ years splitting for 3 families . 12-15 cords pine per year. Just added their 4 way splitter head works well

 

[Firewood Bandit]

it would stall the motor even with no load so I got a new harbour fright motor and it run good starts on the first pull but as soon as I hook it up to the hydro pump the pull rope is so hard to pull that it won't start so I think it may be a bad pump but I have no idea any help would be nice

Let me qualify this by saying I am no mechanic, but am fairly logical.

Your old motor stalled even with no load. The new motor runs fine until hooked up to the pump. The new motor when hooked up to the pump causes the rope to pull so hard it won't start.

OK, the hydro pump is working, but the bypass valve is not. The bypass valve diverts the fluid from the pump which is direct drive on a constant displacement pump. That means the pump pumps all the time and when the lever is moved to split, fluid goes to the cylinder and drives the ram. When it is not splitting, the bypass pumps it back to the reservoir.

I just went and looked at mine and the control lever is one assembly and the bypass must be in there. If you have a hydraulic shop around talk to them and see if they can fix it, other wise replace the assembly.