looking for electric wood splitter

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Simonkenton

Minister of Fire
Feb 27, 2014
2,397
Marshall NC
I burn 2 or 3 cords a year. I was looking at the $320 Earthquake splitter from Lowes, I saw a video on it. I want a better splitter than this. I want one lever control. I am willing to spend a thousand dollars.
 
I wanted an electric splitter, too. It seems like the electric splitters are smaller. But I did find one I wanted - a SuperSplit model run by an electric motor. But it was mucho $$$. Boss builds a dual action 16 ton model for between $1-2k, And a 10-ton dual action model for $1k - you can get legs for this one so it sits up higher. Boss also has a 8-ton dual action model for less than $1k.

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I burn 2 or 3 cords a year. I was looking at the $320 Earthquake splitter from Lowes, I saw a video on it. I want a better splitter than this. I want one lever control. I am willing to spend a thousand dollars.
Just make sure whatever you get doesn't have too "blunt"/wide of a wedge....my sister has one that is this way and it won't split even half of what my elcheapo (probably Harbor Fright...dunno, I bought it used...no label on it) will...my wedge is much "sharper" and narrower than hers
 
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It can be hard to find a good store bought product. I made mine. You can put a 3hp electric motor on an 11gpm pump or a 5hp on a 16gpm and have a really nice splitter. Find a splitter on craigslist/marketplace and convert it. Mine is 3hp and 11gpm for 20 tons. I made the 4 way removable. It splits everything I put in it.

This is locust we split last year.
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We split this stuff yesterday.
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Other than the small electric ones that are sold under various brand names, if you want to step up to a larger more powerful electric splitter there are only a few good options.

In my opinion, the best one is the Swisher 22 ton horizontal/vertical splitter. I bought one last fall and it is a serious piece of equipment. Heavy duty thick gauge steel and powerful enough for anything I've put through it so far. Not cheap, but the nice thing is that your money is going to support American manufacturing jobs, as Swisher products are made in the USA.
(broken link removed to https://www.woodsplitterdirect.com/collections/12-20-ton-electric-wood-splitters/products/swisher-22-ton-electric-log-splitter-eco-split)

Another option is the Ram Splitter 16 ton unit. Still not cheap, but less than the Swisher and looks like a good quality machine.
 
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Great info, guys, keep it coming. There is a bewildering array of electric splitters out there.
 
I have seen other home builds with undersized motors, I just wonder how they survive when making pressure. The math says those motors are making over 6hp under full load. Mine has a 1.8 gpm high pressure stage instead of the regular 3-3.5 gpm.

Mine
11 gpm
3hp
4" cylinder
3200 psi
20 tons

Ram splitter
11 gpm
1.5 hp
3.5" cylinder
3400 psi
16 tons

Swisher
11 gpm
2 hp
4" cylinder
3500 psi
22 tons
 
I have a small earthquake it splits fine if I keep the blade sharp but it is slow on the return and it likes warm temps 40 plus. My friend has one thats non hydralic works great
 
If I had my choice? I would have a 15 to 20 ton kinetic type splitter that had an electric motor. I just got a used 20 ton kinetic type splitter with a 3.5 horsepower B & S engine. I am amazed at how much faster it is compared to my hydraulic splitter - about 3X faster. And I'm splitting up Siberian elm, too. Sometimes I have to whack it a few times but usually it just plows right threw the round.
 
I have seen other home builds with undersized motors, I just wonder how they survive when making pressure. The math says those motors are making over 6hp under full load. Mine has a 1.8 gpm high pressure stage instead of the regular 3-3.5 gpm.

Mine
11 gpm
3hp
4" cylinder
3200 psi
20 tons
I built mine with a 2 hp 220v, 1750 rpm ( pretty sure on the rpms) single phase motor, 4inch cylinder and an 11 gpm pump. I had the motor on hand and thought I would need to replace it with a larger one. That was at least 15 years ago, although I have used it sparingly the last six. While the wedge will lodge in some large knarly pieces I have been very satisfied with it.

I’ve never figured out hp ratings. Skill saws are advertised at over 2hp. The splitter’s 2hp is very heavy, something you wouldn’t want to lug very far. Also, I was told that a industrial electric motor can be the equivalent to a gas engine twice the hp.

I like the idea of converting an existing splitter. While not super quiet they are so much more enjoyable to work around than gas. Of course range is limtied. It takes a Cface motor, a pump adapter to bolt on and a flexible coupling and of course an ample length of a heavy enough gauge electric cable to avoid too large a voltage drop. I start with a sixty foot length of 10/4 cord cable and have some regular 10/3 wire cable to add on as needed (both have 4 wires, it’s just the cord’s 4th wire is isulated.) Keeping the cost down might depend on finding a good used motor. Corded cable is expensive now , 10/4 is listed at Lowes for 3.00/ft.
 
I built mine with a 2 hp 220v, 1750 rpm ( pretty sure on the rpms) single phase motor, 4inch cylinder and an 11 gpm pump. I had the motor on hand and thought I would need to replace it with a larger one. That was at least 15 years ago, although I have used it sparingly the last six. While the wedge will lodge in some large knarly pieces I have been very satisfied with it.

I’ve never figured out hp ratings. Skill saws are advertised at over 2hp. The splitter’s 2hp is very heavy, something you wouldn’t want to lug very far. Also, I was told that a industrial electric motor can be the equivalent to a gas engine twice the hp.
Pumps are rated at 3600 rpm, so you are getting about 4.5/1.5 gpm, which reduces the hp to what your motor is rated for.

Power tools are commonly rated in locked rotor amps, which they convert to hp. It's crooked as hell, but thats how they do it. There is no way a shopvac can pull 6.5 hp from a 110 outlet.

A heavy motor is good because it can generally run a bit harder before it cooks.

Gas vs electric is different because electric motors have "constant torque" and gas has pulses that are evened out by a flywheel. An electric motor has a magnetic field that is constantly twisting it. It is constant power/torque and the load has no time to drag the rpm down. Electric motors also draw more power as the load increases.

The gas engine has a quick push and then 2 full turns of nothing but drag. That gives the load plenty of time to drag the rpm down, because there is no power going into the system. Now the engine has to make enough power to keep the system going PLUS bring the rpm back up.

A gas engine will fall of the torque curve and stall under a heavy load, with no damage to the engine, it just stops.

An electric motor will draw more power as the load increases and when the load becomes too much, they burn up, or stall and then burn up.

So yes, going from gas to electric lets you drop the hp in some applications, but you need to be careful not to drop it too far, because you will burn up an electric motor where a gas engine would just bog down and quit.
 
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Right, I’m sure it can’t be a
Pumps are rated at 3600 rpm, so you are getting about 4.5/1.5 gpm, which reduces the hp to what your motor is rated for.

Power tools are commonly rated in locked rotor amps, which they convert to hp. It's crooked as hell, but thats how they do it. There is no way a shopvac can pull 6.5 hp from a 110 outlet.

A heavy motor is good because it can generally run a bit harder before it cooks.

Gas vs electric is different because electric motors have "constant torque" and gas has pulses that are evened out by a flywheel. An electric motor has a magnetic field that is constantly twisting it. It is constant power/torque and the load has no time to drag the rpm down. Electric motors also draw more power as the load increases.

The gas engine has a quick push and then 2 full turns of nothing but drag. That gives the load plenty of time to drag the rpm down, because there is no power going into the system. Now the engine has to make enough power to keep the system going PLUS bring the rpm back up.

A gas engine will fall of the torque curve and stall under a heavy load, with no damage to the engine, it just stops.

An electric motor will draw more power as the load increases and when the load becomes too much, they burn up, or stall and then burn up.

So yes, going from gas to electric lets you drop the hp in some applications, but you need to be careful not to drop it too far, because you will burn up an electric motor where a gas engine would just bog down and quit.

Pumps are rated at 3600 rpm, so you are getting about 4.5/1.5 gpm, which reduces the hp to what your motor is rated for.

Power tools are commonly rated in locked rotor amps, which they convert to hp. It's crooked as hell, but thats how they do it. There is no way a shopvac can pull 6.5 hp from a 110 outlet.

A heavy motor is good because it can generally run a bit harder before it cooks.

Gas vs electric is different because electric motors have "constant torque" and gas has pulses that are evened out by a flywheel. An electric motor has a magnetic field that is constantly twisting it. It is constant power/torque and the load has no time to drag the rpm down. Electric motors also draw more power as the load increases.

The gas engine has a quick push and then 2 full turns of nothing but drag. That gives the load plenty of time to drag the rpm down, because there is no power going into the system. Now the engine has to make enough power to keep the system going PLUS bring the rpm back up.

A gas engine will fall of the torque curve and stall under a heavy load, with no damage to the engine, it just stops.

An electric motor will draw more power as the load increases and when the load becomes too much, they burn up, or stall and then burn up.

So yes, going from gas to electric lets you drop the hp in some applications, but you need to be careful not to drop it too far, because you will burn up an electric motor where a gas engine would just bog down and quit.
Your’e right. That speed doesn’t make sense. The rpm is 3420. I knew I matched it to a northern tool 11gpm pump but it bugged me enough to go out with a mirror to get access to the spec plate.
 
Thanks for the tips. I tried out a 7HP Boss on a big oak drum today and it did quite well. So I just ordered that machine from Home Depot for $630.
 
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I got the Boss yesterday. I tried it out on some red oak and it worked quite well. Great little machine.
 
I got the Boss yesterday. I tried it out on some red oak and it worked quite well. Great little machine.
How is this working out for you so far? I'm thinking of getting the same unit. Did you also get the stand for it?
 
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Here I am on a 5 minute youtube video, talking about the Boss. 5 gold stars!
 
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Hm, I had hoped an electric splitter would be easier on the ears. As in no sweaty hearing protection needed. This is the worst... You'll get tinnitus and hearing loss quickly from this thing. Reminds me of jet engines...
 
Too late for me, I already have both of those issues. But I don't mind wearing hearing protection for the limited splitting I do now. It's a lot quieter than my ICE splitter and I have 3M radio headphones to keep me entertained while working.

Have you tried the 4 way splitter that comes with the Boss?
 
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I have not tried the 4 way splitter.
The machine doesn't seem too noisy to me, guess I am used to chain saws.
 
I have the radio version too. And tinnitus (due to said jet engines). Electric chainsaw here.

Ah well. If I ever get a splitter, it'll be electric. We'll see then whether they are quieter.
 
Electric splitters are indeed quieter, but it is a different kind of sound. It's a constant whine/hum because there is no exhaust noise to cover up the sound of the pump. If I were to do mine over again, I would get a 1750 rpm motor and 22 gpm pump (running at half speed) to reduce the whine, because a 3600 rpm pump makes some noise.

I might tear mine down and port it to reduce turbulence, but I'm not sure it would help.
 
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I build log cabins. The main tool for cutting dovetail notches is the chainsaw. With the walls 6 feet high ,of course working on the plywood subfloor, you are inside that is really noisy. I always wear headphones, sometimes headphones and earplugs. Really loud.
Also, the interior must be sanded with a DeWalt 7 inch disc grinder. Really loud, have to wear hearing protection for that, of course that is inside, as well. 40 hours of running the disc grinder. And, I always use the headphones cutting firewood. And I cut lots of firewood.

The little Boss is just didn't seem noisy to me and I don't wear hearing protection. I don't have a decibel measuring device.
 
Maybe it's the particular frequency of noise here that bothered me. I even wonder what my neighbors would think about it (they are close enough to take into account).

But maybe it's my ears

I do know they are quieter overall, but sound perception also depends on the spectrum out out by the source and the human receiving it.
 
I can't imagine it would bother the neighbors. I was in the town park today, springtime, the crews are out running lawn mowers and weedeaters, gasoline powered, those machines are much louder than the Boss splitter. This is a neighborhood of nice homes I can't imagine the neighbors would complain, after all they want a nice neat park.

I have run my DeWalt circular saw for hundreds of hours. That saw is louder than the splitter. I don't wear hearing protection while running the electric saw.