Looking for Englander wisdom (55‐TRPAH)

[Bianco1314]

First time poster, long time stalker. Your forum has been a wealth of knowledge.

We have had out Pellet stove for going on 3 seasons now, making the smart move to leave oil (yuck!!).
It runs greats. We clean it moderately often, employ the leaf blower technique (awesome btw), and try to all around keep it maintained.

This unit has the ability to run a thermostat. And I know this is not the first time thermostat questions have been asked. The EnglanderStove site has very straight forward. I have 2 wires to attach on the pellet stove , removing the jumper of course. Then on the other end of the wire , the thermostat. I have a Honeywell RTH2510/RTH2410


The thermostat states it will work with pellets stoves. Instead of just ordering the one from Englander, I wanted on with backlight and programs. I followed Englander's site first time. It states one wire to W, the other to G, the set to Heatpump and Fan on. I did that. Nothing.

So the thinking comes in. I test the wire for continuity. All is well (New wire, but test it I did).

I then find a thread with a similar issue. Says the wiring should be W and Rh(R), no jumper. Ok, still non-functioning.

Now I can still go to the stove and just start it and it will start, just no stat. It has an on/off feature as well as a hi/low.

I go through the motions of unplug/plug then both down arrows. Its set to on/off mode.

I read maybe my wire may be to long for the stat. I test for milivolts, I get 24vac. Now I"m stumped.

Did I screw up the board? It will still run

 

[dlehneman]

I have a PAH on a Lux 1500E t-stat and it works great, so it can be done...but I did have a few problems setting it up initially. I just checked and mine is wired to the W and G terminals with a jumper from RF to RC. Looking at your t-stat I think you may need a jumper between W and Y but I'm not sure on that part (maybe try without first). You need the J1 jumper set to electric I think (that's how I set mine) instead of gas/oil. Fan switch on bottom should be set to "On" not Auto. Once it's wired up set the heat so it is below room level (so no call for heat) then push the On button on stove. It should light up green but not go into startup mode. Turn up the heat on t-stat so that it calls for heat and the stove should switch on after a few seconds.

Hope this works for you!

 

[Bianco1314]

Hmm, ok I may have caused some public embarrassment, but while typing, I wanted to check to make sure it still starts and that I indeed didn't screw the board. I just went to the stove , hit start, and it went green, waiting. Now I went to the stat and manually up it to get it to work. I'm assuming that was the missing link but since I've already killed everyone with my wall of text, I may as well be man enough to say I might not be smarter than a fifth grader. Maybe the englander guy that has helped my wife and I (she usually posts, she's a pellet pig!!Briggsy13) can read this info and verify that all is well and I was just missing something. Thanks guys, ultimately, your forum and post lead me in the proper direction.

 

[Bianco1314]

Thanks for your help, I did totally miss the hit start and let it be. I am running a test now manually. My only question now is do I change the stat to your suggestion, G with W&YJumped, or leave it W and R. I will update .

 

[dlehneman]

Glad I could help I figured it out the hard way, so don't feel bad about missing it. I can't be sure on your wiring since I'm using a Lux with different layout, I just looked at your install guide and tried to cross reference to mine.

I was looking at page 6 of the Quick Install guide for "Heat pump setup without backup heat" (note 3 at bottom) for the wiring setup.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Standard wiring for a t-stat is the white wire to the W terminal screw and the the red wire to the R or Rh terminal screw and the t-stat set for heating. If the t-stat doesn't have a means to set it for heating and there is a jumper from R or Rh to Rc you need to remove the jumper.

 

[mithesaint]

Hmm, ok I may have caused some public embarrassment, but while typing, I wanted to check to make sure it still starts and that I indeed didn't screw the board. I just went to the stove , hit start, and it went green, waiting. Now I went to the stat and manually up it to get it to work. I'm assuming that was the missing link but since I've already killed everyone with my wall of text, I may as well be man enough to say I might not be smarter than a fifth grader. Maybe the englander guy that has helped my wife and I (she usually posts, she's a pellet pig!!Briggsy13) can read this info and verify that all is well and I was just missing something. Thanks guys, ultimately, your forum and post lead me in the proper direction.

Don't feel bad, I did the same thing. Couldn't figure out why it wouldn't work, and turns out I just didn't understand how it was supposed to work. Story of my life lol.

 

[imacman]

....My only question now is do I change the stat to your suggestion, G with W&YJumped, or leave it W and R. I will update .

Leave it connected to the W & R(H). You're good to go.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

First time poster, long time stalker. Your forum has been a wealth of knowledge.

We have had out Pellet stove for going on 3 seasons now, making the smart move to leave oil (yuck!!).
It runs greats. We clean it moderately often, employ the leaf blower technique (awesome btw), and try to all around keep it maintained.

This unit has the ability to run a thermostat. And I know this is not the first time thermostat questions have been asked. The EnglanderStove site has very straight forward. I have 2 wires to attach on the pellet stove , removing the jumper of course. Then on the other end of the wire , the thermostat. I have a Honeywell RTH2510/RTH2410


The thermostat states it will work with pellets stoves. Instead of just ordering the one from Englander, I wanted on with backlight and programs. I followed Englander's site first time. It states one wire to W, the other to G, the set to Heatpump and Fan on. I did that. Nothing.

So the thinking comes in. I test the wire for continuity. All is well (New wire, but test it I did).

I then find a thread with a similar issue. Says the wiring should be W and Rh(R), no jumper. Ok, still non-functioning.

Now I can still go to the stove and just start it and it will start, just no stat. It has an on/off feature as well as a hi/low.

I go through the motions of unplug/plug then both down arrows. Its set to on/off mode.

I read maybe my wire may be to long for the stat. I test for milivolts, I get 24vac. Now I"m stumped.

Did I screw up the board? It will still run

the system is an "open/closed" circuit control. so when calling for heat you should have continuity when idle you shojld have an open circuit.

here's a test you can use to see if the stat and the board are "talking"

1. unplug stove and replug, then quickly press and release the "low fuel feed" AND " air on temp" buttons (2 fingers)
2. the control board will display in the heat range a dash and if the stat circuit is closed (caling for heat) a dash in the blower speed. if the stat circuit is open there will be no dash in the blower speed.
3. determine if the stat is calling for heat , and see if the stat matches this, then adjust the stat to idle it and back to call for heat and see if the dash in the blower speed responds. if it does they should work together , if it stays an open circuit either the stat is not compatible or its not wired to work in the standard "open/closed" continuity fashion.

if you are still fighting this , give my tech support a call 800-245-6489. we'll get you straight