Looking for input on BK Princess vs. King

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jophysx

Burning Hunk
Apr 12, 2011
190
Portland, OR
Looking for some advice on planned install and BK Princess vs. King...
1700 square foot cottage in SW Michigan near Lake Michigan. Planning to move there year-round in the future. The house has a heat pump with LP gas backup. Seems to be decently insulated. The house came with a 1970's style circular fireplace. It's terrible in comparison to a modern wood-burner. Looking to replace it. I am leaning toward the BK Princess so I can have an easy 12hr reload cycle, and maybe even 24hr reload cycle in the shoulder season.
Here are my questions.
  1. The existing "stove" has an 8" flue that goes up through the ceiling/roof in the center of the house. How hard to change this to 6" for the Princess? Would it be better to just go with the King to be able to use the existing 8" setup? I know that the black stovepipe has to be replaced with insulated either way. The Princess seems like the right size for our square footage and intended use. The only reason to go with the King is if it will save headaches on the install.
  2. The existing "stove" juts out too far into the room. I want to push the new install back as close to the back wall as possible within the clearance requirements. This means the flue will need to have a jog in it to line up with the existing roof penetration. Any issues with that?
  3. The brick floor protection needs to go. Multiple people have stubbed their toes badly on it. The plan is to take out the brick on the floor and replace it with a black steel floor protection. No insulation value needed, just ember protection per my understanding of the BK install requirements. Not really a question here. Just confirming that ember protection is all that's required. We are planning to keep the brick covering the back wall, but my understanding is that's not really needed either.
Pictures attached.
Hearth-1.jpg
The orange dotted lines show the footprint of Princess minimum floor protection area. The yellow lines are the existing dimensions.

Hearth-2.jpg

Hearth-3.jpg

I have been living in Oregon, burning a Hampton HI-300 insert for the last 10yrs. I know the importance of dry wood. I have a moisture meter and I use it!

Thanks in advance for the good advice I know I will get from the Hearth.com enthusiasts.
-Jim
 

Nealm66

Minister of Fire
Sep 25, 2020
1,365
Western Washington
I have the princess and I think you’re spot on as far as reloading cycle and plenty of stove for the space. If it were me, I’d probably go with the king for that space though just purely for looks. I’m definitely not an expert but from what I’ve gathered you can turn the king down to a lower heat output and maybe find a sweet spot for the reload cycle. I actually don’t mind reloading a little early as it doesn’t require much time to get it back to its setting. I’ll definitely let the experts give the advice on the pipe. I just wanted to say the king would look really good
 

ABMax24

Minister of Fire
Sep 18, 2019
1,691
Grande Prairie, Alberta, Canada
Has the chimney been inspected and deemed to be in operating condition and compliant with applicable clearances to combustibles?

I think that's the point to start with, 6" is cheaper than 8" if the entire system needs replacing and will probably steer you to the Princess.

In particular what concerns me with your setup is where the chimney pipe penetrates the ceiling, I've never seen a setup where the chimney pipe goes through the ceiling without having a thimble or ceiling box support to maintain a 2" clearance to combustibles. Though I'm not anything close to a chimney expert and would ask others with more knowledge to chime in on this.

Screenshot (185)_LI.jpg
 

jophysx

Burning Hunk
Apr 12, 2011
190
Portland, OR
I would appreciate further input on the current setup . . . the question raised by the previous post (ABMax24). Is the current setup (came with the house) violating clearances? Do I need to ensure 2" clearance to the drywall and any framing where the chimney goes through the ceiling? Or is there a product that allows zero clearance (maybe triple-wall, insulated)?
I agree it looks strange to have the chimney pipe pass straight through a cutout in the drywall with no thimble. I would like to put a thimble there if just for aesthetics.
-Jim
 

Highbeam

Minister of Fire
Dec 28, 2006
19,986
Mt. Rainier Foothills, WA
Drywall is a combustible surface because of the paper. My class A requires 2" clearance to combustibles. I would fix the ceiling issue as well as go up above and look for similar mistakes on the roof sheathing and perhaps even the ceiling joists.
 
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jophysx

Burning Hunk
Apr 12, 2011
190
Portland, OR
Sounds like good advice. Looks like this install was not done right. I wonder if it was ever inspected.
I'm having it professionally installed by a local dealer. I will make sure they address this.
-Jim
 

ohlongarm

Minister of Fire
Mar 18, 2011
1,606
Northeastern Ohio
Looking for some advice on planned install and BK Princess vs. King...
1700 square foot cottage in SW Michigan near Lake Michigan. Planning to move there year-round in the future. The house has a heat pump with LP gas backup. Seems to be decently insulated. The house came with a 1970's style circular fireplace. It's terrible in comparison to a modern wood-burner. Looking to replace it. I am leaning toward the BK Princess so I can have an easy 12hr reload cycle, and maybe even 24hr reload cycle in the shoulder season.
Here are my questions.
  1. The existing "stove" has an 8" flue that goes up through the ceiling/roof in the center of the house. How hard to change this to 6" for the Princess? Would it be better to just go with the King to be able to use the existing 8" setup? I know that the black stovepipe has to be replaced with insulated either way. The Princess seems like the right size for our square footage and intended use. The only reason to go with the King is if it will save headaches on the install.
  2. The existing "stove" juts out too far into the room. I want to push the new install back as close to the back wall as possible within the clearance requirements. This means the flue will need to have a jog in it to line up with the existing roof penetration. Any issues with that?
  3. The brick floor protection needs to go. Multiple people have stubbed their toes badly on it. The plan is to take out the brick on the floor and replace it with a black steel floor protection. No insulation value needed, just ember protection per my understanding of the BK install requirements. Not really a question here. Just confirming that ember protection is all that's required. We are planning to keep the brick covering the back wall, but my understanding is that's not really needed either.
Pictures attached.
View attachment 284126
The orange dotted lines show the footprint of Princess minimum floor protection area. The yellow lines are the existing dimensions.

View attachment 284127

View attachment 284128

I have been living in Oregon, burning a Hampton HI-300 insert for the last 10yrs. I know the importance of dry wood. I have a moisture meter and I use it!

Thanks in advance for the good advice I know I will get from the Hearth.com enthusiasts.
-Jim
Go with the King parlor or pedestal, it's better to have the extra heat output , and perhaps need it, then need it and not have it. The king can be dialed down real low for a long steady burn. You've already got eight inch which it requires, but the ceiling thing doesn't look right to me, no expert by far but someone here will help you. I'm heating about 1800 sq. feet ranch and no problems or regrets with my king parlor.