Looking for Micore

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Don,

Check with a local masonary supply. That's where I found mine, it was about a buck a sqft and was available 5x8 or half sheets 2.5x8 or 4x5.
Good luck

Garett
 
DonCT said:
Yea, I finally got ahold of someone there. They do sell the Micore 300. Kinda pricey.

Oh well, I gotta try and think if I really need it, or if the Durock will hold the stove ok. Will 2 sheets of 1/2" Durock tacked with thinset do? It's gonna be set on metal stud framing.

That should easily do it. Tile on top makes it really stiff.
 
DonCT said:
None of the big box stores carry it. I've called about a dozen drywall dealers and most haven't even heard of it. Where can I get my hands on some?

I have a small sheet which is 48 inches by 18 inches. You can have it for the cost of shipping, free if you pick it up.
Email or PM me if you are interested.
 
That's what I was thinking, but I wanted some more opinions before I did anything. That's all I would need, is for the stove to be burning, then collaps thru the tile/Durock and spill coals and fire everywhere. Is the Durock pretty solid once it's secured to the framing? How much weight will it hold under normal circumstances?
 
Hi
Read your stove manual, it will guide you through this process.

MICORE® Brand 300
r-value 1.09

http://www.acoustics.com/specs/USG_product/usg_spec.pdf#search='micore 300 spec'

MICORE® Brand 300 Board from USG is a superior substrate for fabric and vinyl-covered wall panels, office
dividers and tack boards. An excellent core for chalkboards, stove boards, and similar applications, MICORE Brand
300 Board offers outstanding resilience, superior machinability, high “k” factor, heavy density and highest surface hardness of any MICORE

½" Durock is hard. Indentation strength psi 1" dia. disc. @ 0.02" indent 2500 psi.
Uniform load psf (studs spaced 12" o.c.) 50 psf max.

http://www.usg.com/USG_Marketing_Co...ts/DrckCement_Board-Submittal_Sheet_CB399.pdf

Composition and Materials DUROCK Cement Board is formed in a continuous process of aggregated portland cement slurry with polymercoated,
glass-fiber mesh completely encompassing edges, back and front surfaces. The edges are formed
smooth—patent No. 4,916,004. The ends are square cut.

Description
DUROCK® Brand Cement Board provides a smooth, sound base for glass and ceramic mosaics; ceramic and quarry
tile; lugged tile; and thin stone and thin brick. Suitable for application to wood or steel framing spaced 16 o.c. in
new construction and in remodeling. Board is ideal for use in partitions, walls, floors, soffits and ceilings in wet or
dry areas. It does not deteriorate in the presence of water so it is highly durable in high-moisture areas such as
baths, showers, kitchens and laundry rooms. Also adaptable for fences, fireplace fronts, mobile home skirting,
agricultural buildings, UL-listed wall shield/floor protectors, garage wainscoting and exterior finishes.

Limitations
A. DUROCK Cement Board is designed for positive or negative uniform loads up to 50 psf. For complete information
on the use of DUROCK panels in exterior systems, consult your USG sales representative.
B. Maximum stud spacing: 16" o.c. (24" o.c. for cavity shaft wall assembly); maximum allowable deflection, based
on stud properties only, L/360. Maximum fastener spacing: 8" o.c. for wood and steel framing; 6" o.c. for ceiling
applications.
C. Maximum dead load for ceiling system is 7.5 psf.
D. Steel framing must be 20-gauge or heavier.
E. Do not use drywall screws or drywall nails.
F. Do not use 5/16"DUROCK® Brand Underlayment for wall or ceiling applications.
G. Do not use DUROCK Cement Board with vinyl flooring.


My 2005 Hearthstone Heritage needs 1.2 r-value hearth pad. 5 sheets of ½" durock
OR
1 sheet of ½ " durock+1 sheet of ½ " MICORE® Brand 300 Board to cover the oak flooring in my house.

I put ½" micore 300 down first, then ½" durock and finished the top with stone tile.

Do have a air space the height of your metal framing?

Filling this gap with mineral wool is another way to boost the total R-value of your hearth pad.
1" mineral wool insulation = 3.12 R-value (ASHRAE Handbook of Fundamentals).
 
I think I'm going to leave the 2 layers of 5/8" gypsom, then cover it with the 2 sheets of 1/2 Durock. That should give the me strength and R value I need. Add that I have a 4" air gap under the pad because of the steel framing.

I'll probably spend one more night thinking about it, then start the work.
 
DriftWood said:
Hi
Read your stove manual, it will guide you through this process.

MICORE® Brand 300 is soft you can dent it with your thumbnail. Modulus of Rupture 350-450 lbs./sq. inch
Tensile Strength Parallel to surface 225-275 lbs./sq. inch
Perpendicular to surface 20-30 lbs./sq. inch.
r-value 1.09

http://www.acoustics.com/specs/USG_product/usg_spec.pdf#search='micore 300 spec'

MICORE® Brand 300 Board from USG is a superior substrate for fabric and vinyl-covered wall panels, office
dividers and tack boards. An excellent core for chalkboards, stove boards, and similar applications, MICORE Brand
300 Board offers outstanding resilience, superior machinability, high “k” factor, heavy density and highest surface hardness of any MICORE

½" Durock is hard. Indentation strength psi 1" dia. disc. @ 0.02" indent 2500 psi.
Uniform load psf (studs spaced 12" o.c.) 50 psf max.

http://www.usg.com/USG_Marketing_Co...ts/DrckCement_Board-Submittal_Sheet_CB399.pdf

Composition and Materials DUROCK Cement Board is formed in a continuous process of aggregated portland cement slurry with polymercoated,
glass-fiber mesh completely encompassing edges, back and front surfaces. The edges are formed
smooth—patent No. 4,916,004. The ends are square cut.

Description
DUROCK® Brand Cement Board provides a smooth, sound base for glass and ceramic mosaics; ceramic and quarry
tile; lugged tile; and thin stone and thin brick. Suitable for application to wood or steel framing spaced 16 o.c. in
new construction and in remodeling. Board is ideal for use in partitions, walls, floors, soffits and ceilings in wet or
dry areas. It does not deteriorate in the presence of water so it is highly durable in high-moisture areas such as
baths, showers, kitchens and laundry rooms. Also adaptable for fences, fireplace fronts, mobile home skirting,
agricultural buildings, UL-listed wall shield/floor protectors, garage wainscoting and exterior finishes.

Limitations
A. DUROCK Cement Board is designed for positive or negative uniform loads up to 50 psf. For complete information
on the use of DUROCK panels in exterior systems, consult your USG sales representative.
B. Maximum stud spacing: 16" o.c. (24" o.c. for cavity shaft wall assembly); maximum allowable deflection, based
on stud properties only, L/360. Maximum fastener spacing: 8" o.c. for wood and steel framing; 6" o.c. for ceiling
applications.
C. Maximum dead load for ceiling system is 7.5 psf.
D. Steel framing must be 20-gauge or heavier.
E. Do not use drywall screws or drywall nails.
F. Do not use 5/16"DUROCK® Brand Underlayment for wall or ceiling applications.
G. Do not use DUROCK Cement Board with vinyl flooring.


My 2005 Hearthstone Heritage needs 1.2 r-value hearth pad. 5 sheets of ½" durock
OR
1 sheet of ½ " durock+1 sheet of ½ " MICORE® Brand 300 Board to cover the oak flooring in my house.

I put ½" micore 300 down first, then ½" durock and finished the top with stone tile.

Do have a air space the height of your metal framing?

Filling this gap with mineral wool is another way to boost the total R-value of your hearth pad.
1" mineral wool insulation = 3.12 R-value (ASHRAE Handbook of Fundamentals).

Driftwood,

Only saw this now as I'm considering making my own hearth pad. Question: how can metal studs add any R-value? I know you add insulation between the studs and I can see that counts as added insulation however, at the studs themselves there's no added insulation other than the R-value of the Durrock that sits on top of it. Put another way: at a point on the hearth pad between the studs you might have R=4 for example but at the studs themselves, you might only have R=0.5 and if your requirement is for R=1.4 for example, how does this meet code...?
 
I'm going to do a hearth for a hearthstone phoenix and it's to be R-1.0

I'm laying 4 sheets of durock right on the subfloor and capping it with brick.

I say you could build up a raised base out of wood or metal studs, if you are worried about weight, put a 3/4 sheet of plywood on top, then 4 or 5 sheets of durock, that'll hold it for sure.
 
the theory is that the metal studs or high hats distribute heat through out the framing and not directed in on hot spot

The purpose of an extention of hearth is to provide a non combustiable surface the reduces thermal heat to the combustiables underneath
Fiberglass insulation achieve this by creating the air space. Fiberglass may be used under non combustiables because it is not directly expposed to surface contact the it is buffered by dura rock and another non combustiable covering. Its flash point is almost twice that of the wood it is protecting. The metal studs surounded are non combustiables buffered by air space and heat dissipation. To dress up a built up pad I can use wood trim providing the wood is spaced beyond the non combustiable range so over size an extra inch or two
 
ansehnlich1 said:
I'm going to do a hearth for a hearthstone phoenix and it's to be R-1.0

I'm laying 4 sheets of durock right on the subfloor and capping it with brick.

I say you could build up a raised base out of wood or metal studs, if you are worried about weight, put a 3/4 sheet of plywood on top, then 4 or 5 sheets of durock, that'll hold it for sure.

Yes but in your case the 4 sheets do provide all the R-value you need regardless of what you put underneath. My question is this: say I need R= 2.9...how can i get away with, for example R=2 on top and then metal studs with insulation and air gaps below because directly above the stud, all I would have would be R=2 plus the metal below it and metal is a conductor....
 
castiron said:
ansehnlich1 said:
I'm going to do a hearth for a hearthstone phoenix and it's to be R-1.0

I'm laying 4 sheets of durock right on the subfloor and capping it with brick.

I say you could build up a raised base out of wood or metal studs, if you are worried about weight, put a 3/4 sheet of plywood on top, then 4 or 5 sheets of durock, that'll hold it for sure.

Yes but in your case the 4 sheets do provide all the R-value you need regardless of what you put underneath. My question is this: say I need R= 2.9...how can i get away with, for example R=2 on top and then metal studs with insulation and air gaps below because directly above the stud, all I would have would be R=2 plus the metal below it and metal is a conductor....

The metal is a conductor, but the entire hearth pad isn't going to be heated uniformly, so the metal will also be acting to spread the heat in the hot spots to the cooler areas so the average temperature across the entire pad ends up being an acceptable lower value. Some folks even suggest sticking a thin sheet of metal into the pad sandwich (either steel or aluminum sheet, 16-20g) to increase this dissipation, although I don't think it officially helps the R-value.

Elk, can you clarify what R-Value add one can calculate for doing a layer of 2x4 metal studs w/ fiberglass between them? Seems like a common approach...

Gooserider
 
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