Looking for some guidance on a wood FP to pellet insert upgrade...

[roadking00]

Hi all,

New to this forum and glad I stumble across it, seems to be a TON of knowledgeable folks on here and great information all around. Anyhow, I bought this home a few years ago and right away I've wanted to research an insert (pellet,corn ??) upgrade for the known low efficient wood fireplace that the home was built with back in 78'-79' but of course it was low on the wife's list of things needed to upgrade, here we are 3 yrs later, used the FP on maybe a dozen or so occasions for company/family over the holidays. We recently had some real cold evenings and mornings (in the teens) for the Charlotte, NC area and realized how much a heat pump stinks at those temps (never really like them anyhow,originally from north NJ) so to make a long story short this has risen to the top of my list to start my planning and research to be ready for next fall/winter heating season.I have a few basic questions to start off with and maybe I can get a few pics uploaded of what I have and then go from there and 1st and foremost I appreciate any of the help and guidance I receive well in advance.

1. I'm pretty handy with upgrades around the house, I would imagine I am better off purchasing online and handling the install myself, any best online dealers to start browsing ? Trusted models/manufacturers ?
2. Does anyone find the need to run their HVAC systems fan if they have one to circulate some warm air from the room the stove is in throughout the rest of the house to even things out, as well as not be way too hot in just that room where the pellet stove is ?
3. My home is roughly 1800 sq ft and not against (at all) using a good quality stove for my primary heat, but I know when I had this FP going pretty good it seemed like the other areas of the house dropped off in temp pretty quick, I believe my glass front panel was pulling all the warm house air out through small leaks and right out the chimney, how will a pellet stove with remote mounted stat differ for the better to warm the whole house ?

Sorry for these basic questions, here is what I have to work with


It has what I believe is called ventilator set up that exhausts out the bottom right and left side of the step up on the rock mason work through two 2 " round pipes



Internal Left Side, fresh combustion air door.



Internal Right with chain for damper control at the top of the chimney, top hat type ??



I believe maybe at one time it had a solid damper at the bottom area ?? Looking up flue here.


Back wall measures @ 29" wide


Front rough opening is about 36"W x 29/30" H with about a 26" depth

Again, thanks for any guidance in my research, all thoughts, comments,questions or links to any similar threads would be very much appreciated.

Steve

 

[alternativeheat]

Hi Steve and welcome !

You absolutely can heat your 1800 sq ft. house better with just about any stove than the fireplace would even begin to do. Your experience is familiar sounding, though our fireplace had no glass. But ya you can literally feel the air rushing to an open fire. That said , we opted to put a stove on the hearth vs an insert in the fireplace but there are many people here at the forum using inserts. How well a pellet stove/insert heats evenly has a lot to do with house layout. For instance , we have an off shoot or extension that is cool compared with the rest of the house but our house is old and much looser than modern construction would dictate. Non the less, 1800 sq ft, we heat right down to about 4 deg F. At that point and lower I opt to supplement with the oil burner.

The fireplace sucks a ton of air. A pellet stove without an out side air kit ( OAK) can draw some air as well but you will get a lot of heat output into the house mostly by convection blower. A pellet stove ( we will just identify pellets inserts as pellet stove from this point on) with an OAK is now drawing outside air in for combustion and that ends the draft cycle that runs to the stove that is run up the chimney otherwise. The key there is combustion air. Convection air will circulate with some natural layering . Cool air low near the floor and warm air higher. That warm air is blowing away from the stove, the cool air will try to return to the stove. This is not to be confused with combustion air that must be replace by ultra cold outdoor air. The natural occurrence is tame in comparison.

Several good inserts out there. Most web sites rate their stove for a range of Sq ft the stove will cover. I would look at Harman, Quadrafire and Enviro first and in that order. That's my personal preference, others might reverse the order! These are the popular higher quality stoves out there to give you three names. Breckwell makes a good insert too.

Could you give us an idea about house design, style and or layout ? This so we could best guide you.

There are a couple of ways to go on an install. Most popular in an insert like you want to do is to run a 4" liner up your chimney to the top and draw your combustion air down the chimney. This keeps it all neat with in the fireplace and best utilizes your existing fireplace and chimney.

 

[F4jock]

Buy yourself a Harman, have it properly installed, read and understand the manual, dial it in to operate as you desire, sit back and enjoy.

 

[CladMaster]

If you buy a Harman and have it installed by the dealer / store, make sure, no, insist that the OAK is installed to draw air from outside the house.

 

[F4jock]

If you buy a Harman and have it installed by the dealer / store, make sure, no, insist that the OAK is installed to draw air from outside the house.

And be sure it is installed correctly with respect to distance from vent etc. Smokey can help you with that.

 

[roadking00]

Hi Steve and welcome !

You absolutely can heat your 1800 sq ft. house better with just about any stove than the fireplace would even begin to do. Your experience is familiar sounding though our fireplace had no glass. But ya you can literally feel the air rushing to an open fire. that said , we opted to put a stove on the hearth vs an insert in the fireplace but there are many people here at the forum using inserts. how well a pellet stove/insert heats evenly has a lot to do with house layout. For instance , we have an off shoot or extension that is cool compared with the rest of the house but our house is old and much looser than modern construction would dictate. Non the less, 1800 sq ft, we heat right down to about 4 deg F. At that point and lower I opt to supplement with the oil burner.

The fireplace sucks a ton of air. A pellet stove without an out side air kit ( OAK) can draw some air as well but you will get a lot of heat output into the house mostly by convection blower. A pellet stove ( we will just identify pellets inserts as pellet stove from this point on) with an OAK is now drawing outside air in for combustion and that ends the draft cycle that runs to the stove that is run up the chimney otherwise. The key there is combustion air. Convection air will circulate with some natural layering . Cool air low near the floor and warm air higher. That warm air is blowing away from the stove, the cool air will try to return to the stove. This is not to be confused with combustion air that must be replace by ultra cold outdoor air. The natural occurrence is tame in comparison.

Several good inserts out there. Most web site rate their stove for a range of Sq ft the stove will cover. I would look at Harman, Quadrafire and Enviro first and in that order. That's my personal preference, others might reverse the order!
These are the popular higher quality stoves out there to give you three names. Breckwell makes a good insert too.

Could you give us an idea about house design, style and or layout ? This so we could best guide you.

There are a couple of ways to go on an install. Most popular in an insert like you want to do is to run a 4" liner up your chimney to the top and draw your combustion air down the chimney. this keeps it all neat with in the fireplace and best utilizes your existing fireplace and chimney.

Thanks AH for the reply, yeah I think for the WAF I'll be looking into the inserts rather then a freestanding on the hearth so long as I'm not too restricted with a super small hopper on an insert (have to start shopping) so just a 4" liner typically is needed for exhaust flue on most huh, that will not be a problem to run , I have a 10" or 12" SS liner to utilize...I guess the existing cold air intake slider door down in the firebox wont be needed or better to use that as well ?

I will sketch up a basic floor plan of my home and upload as well, but its a 2 story in which the 2nd floor is a dormer with 1 bdrm toward the front of the house and 1 bdrm toward the rear with a full bath in the center.I just finished adding a separate modern 2 ton HVAC system (heat pump) for upstairs because the home was originally built utilizing the 1 older still existing unit downstairs for the entire house (which didn't work out at all) will be upgrading the Heat Pump and duct work for the 1st floor eventually as well but the pellet insert is 1st.

 

[roadking00]

Buy yourself a Harman, have it properly installed, read and understand the manual, dial it in to operate as you desire, sit back and enjoy.

Thank, will be looking into the Harman.. when you say properly installed are you referring I'm better off having a dealer/store do it and its not a handy/competent type homeowner DIY task ? Or basically make sure I follow any and all installation specs and best practices myself ?

 

[roadking00]

If you buy a Harman and have it installed by the dealer / store, make sure, no, insist that the OAK is installed to draw air from outside the house.

Thanks CM, my neighbor was having his flue and chimney cap worked on this past fall by a fireplace / chimney guy in the area and I struck up a conversation (picking his brain) on his thoughts of a pellet insert and pretty much said he was not fond of them (or just no experience with them) but he had a friend who installed them on occasion? I'm a little weary on finding a knowledgeable installer in this area because it seems like the pellet stove is not to big in the area as it is up north, so I figured if I get all learned up from folks here and read up on all things needed I would do it myself ...But I guess I need to get some knowledge for myself first then visit a few dealers/stores in the surrounding areas before really coming to that definitive conclusion based on 1-2 comments from chimney sweep guys.

 

[F4jock]

Thank, will be looking into the Harman.. when you say properly installed are you referring I'm better off having a dealer/store do it and its not a handy/competent type homeowner DIY task ? Or basically make sure I follow any and all installation specs and best practices myself ?

Of course you can do it yourself IF you do the proper research. What I see all too often with self-installs is slap it in and complain anout the stove when it doesn't work. A proper installation isn't rocket science but it does take some skill and forethought.

 

[Wilbur Feral]

Great advice above, although there are some good brands in addition to Harman. Spend time learning about how a stove works. The situation you had with a fireplace is nothing like owning a modern pellet stove that uses an OAK (essential to avoiding those drafts and temp losses you experienced with the fireplace). But you need to do some homework on your own if you want this to be a good - and profitable, long term - situation.

Be very wary of speaking with "fireplace / chimney guys", who sadly often know as much about modern pellet stoves (and how air exchange in a home works) as a 17th century physician knew about genomics. The vast majority I've met have no credentialing or training other than how to get soot out of an old masonry chimney (if they are even properly trained for that!), and have done nothing to actually learn about modern combustion appliances. Some will sell pellet stoves because they just want to make a buck, and sadly there is little in the way of proper credentialing or continuing education required of them by regulators (sadly, the case for much of the home improvement industry). If you are going to do this install yourself (and you can, although some insurers have a problem with this) then you really have much to learn. You will not be sufficiently skilled without much time spent studying how your home and a pellet stove work.

A good dealer - and there are some on this forum, although possibly not in your area (I have no idea) - can be a real asset but are more uncommon than common, in my experience. Spend time over the next few months talking to various dealers to separate the wheat from the chaff. My tell-tale question to ask (when advising friends) is "So, I've heard I should install a separate pipe to pull in outside air for combustion. Is that a good idea"? Any answer other than Yes means you scratch that yahoo off your list.

Good luck, and welcome. But please understand that installing a pellet stove is not like hanging a shelf or putting new doors on the old fireplace, and being handy does not give you all the info you need. There's a learning curve, and random "fireplace guys" may be some off the worst teachers out there.

 

[bags]

You are approaching this the correct way also. Educate yourself on pellet burning, inserts, installation, and other factors before you shot yourself in the foot like many do. You have everything you need here and do not be afraid to ask questions. Why reinvent the wheel? And remember, Nobody gets too far running on poorly inflated or flat tires. Many insert people here. I am eyeballing my old wood insert now thinking it might be time to cut the line on the boat anchor.

Get your floor plan and some more details posted for helpers here to critique and offer guidance and suggestions for best results. Good Luck! Welcome!

 

[alternativeheat]

Thanks AH for the reply, yeah I think for the WAF I'll be looking into the inserts rather then a freestanding on the hearth so long as I'm not too restricted with a super small hopper on an insert (have to start shopping) so just a 4" liner typically is needed for exhaust flue on most huh, that will not be a problem to run , I have a 10" or 12" SS liner to utilize...I guess the existing cold air intake slider door down in the firebox wont be needed or better to use that as well ?

I will sketch up a basic floor plan of my home and upload as well, but its a 2 story in which the 2nd floor is a dormer with 1 bdrm toward the front of the house and 1 bdrm toward the rear with a full bath in the center.I just finished adding a separate modern 2 ton HVAC system (heat pump) for upstairs because the home was originally built utilizing the 1 older still existing unit downstairs for the entire house (which didn't work out at all) will be upgrading the Heat Pump and duct work for the 1st floor eventually as well but the pellet insert is 1st.

I was wondering if that was a fresh air hatch or clean out what ever, that ran outside. Yes you can use that to access fresh air. You would do a fresh air line etc.. Actually ask F4jock, I think he did something similar in his fireplace install.

 

[roadking00]

Great advice above, although there are some good brands in addition to Harman. Spend time learning about how a stove works. The situation you had with a fireplace is nothing like owning a modern pellet stove that uses an OAK (essential to avoiding those drafts and temp losses you experienced with the fireplace). But you need to do some homework on your own if you want this to be a good - and profitable, long term - situation.

Be very wary of speaking with "fireplace / chimney guys", who sadly often know as much about modern pellet stoves (and how air exchange in a home works) as a 17th century physician knew about genomics. The vast majority I've met have no credentialing or training other than how to get soot out of an old masonry chimney (if they are even properly trained for that!), and have done nothing to actually learn about modern combustion appliances. Some will sell pellet stoves because they just want to make a buck, and sadly there is little in the way of proper credentialing or continuing education required of them by regulators (sadly, the case for much of the home improvement industry). If you are going to do this install yourself (and you can, although some insurers have a problem with this) then you really have much to learn. You will not be sufficiently skilled without much time spent studying how your home and a pellet stove work.

A good dealer - and there are some on this forum, although possibly not in your area (I have no idea) - can be a real asset but are more uncommon than common, in my experience. Spend time over the next few months talking to various dealers to separate the wheat from the chaff. My tell-tale question to ask (when advising friends) is "So, I've heard I should install a separate pipe to pull in outside air for combustion. Is that a good idea"? Any answer other than Yes means you scratch that yahoo off your list.

Good luck, and welcome. But please understand that installing a pellet stove is not like hanging a shelf or putting new doors on the old fireplace, and being handy does not give you all the info you need. There's a learning curve, and random "fireplace guys" may be some off the worst teachers out there.

Thanks so much for the input, I am definitely in the learning/research steps of this project. I am one to research and learn before anything for sure (I'll be reading and asking questions for months before I step foot into a dealer/sales floor).Hopefully by fall summer fall of this year I'll be ready to pull the trigger. Thanks for the tip on asking that specific question about the pipe for combustion air, note taken.

Looking forward to reading/learning and chatting with all on this forum in the months to come. And actually just found a dealer in Charlotte that carries Harman, Quadrafire and Enviro all in one place to eventually go check them out....

A little about myself :
I guess I can consider myself as a little more then handy, I'm in the middle of a complete remodel of a master bdrm/bath sweet in our home and doing the carpentry/electrical/plumbing myself (electrician by trade) but I know my limits even with that project and pay the pros for the things I do not care to do or don't have the patience/skills/art to do the job right and look great when done (like Drywall/Spackle as well as marble/tile work) And nowadays for the past 14yrs since getting out of the electrical construction phase of my life I have been operating and have the responsibility and no how to operate/maintain a 850 million dollar modern day power generation facility, so I know a bit about combustion air, fuel and heat exchangers related to my Gas Turbines and Heat Recovery Steam Generators (fancy words for boiler) and pretty confident this will help me get this project done as a DIY, and my key attribute is that I am not afraid to ask for help no matter how dumb I may think the question may be

But either way my wife will have my head if the MSTR Bdrm / bath are not done soon.....way before I start this next project.

Thanks again,
Steve

 

[F4jock]

I was wondering if that was ah air hatch or clean out what ever, that ran outside. Yes you can use that to access fresh air. You would do a fresh air line etc.. Actually ask F4jock, I think he did something similar in his fireplace install.

Yeah. Was simple. Ran 4" SS vent pipe to top of chimney and capped it with a proper baffle. Sealed off the chimney to fireplace cabitu w damper and thick insulation. Sealed around the insert bezel to stone and stove and opened the cleanout door. Hung a ribbon in the door to monitor airflow. Sucks it almost horizontal.

Minus 4 this morning, 73 inside.

 

[roadking00]

I was wondering if that was a fresh air hatch or clean out what ever, that ran outside. Yes you can use that to access fresh air. You would do a fresh air line etc.. Actually ask F4jock, I think he did something similar in his fireplace install.

There are both actually in there, fresh air intake on the left side wall and on the floor in the back center there is a clean out hatch but when they installed the ventilator set up (at whatever time?) they kind of obstructed the access hatch to be user friendly with the square stock ventilator tubing (poor design or install ?)

 

[roadking00]

Well folks, here is a layout of my home...Any other helpful details needed please ask.

First Floor


Second Floor

 

[roadking00]

Does anyone get pellets delivered by the pallet from anywhere online if not available within their local area?

 

[roadking00]

Been reading a ton and came across a few things maybe some folks can clarify ?
1. Having an insert in a fireplace set up is not as good as a standard pellet stove sitting on the hearth and just using the chimney for venting and combustion air purposes, but yet looking at some inserts the efficiency ratings are right up there with standard ones if not a little better ?
2. A few threads on there about fan quietness, some are a few years old any other newer models that stand out for 2014/15 that have gotten quieter?

 

[Wilbur Feral]

My guess is that you will have reasonably good air flow to 2nd floor if bedroom / bath doors are left open there. My larger concern is with main floor air flow. Openeing out of LR is not large, with hard right angle to MBR are main concerns, but all homes have challenges. If you like a cool bedroom, should be good.

As for inserts, they can be great; however, they are harder to clean even if on rails that allow for slideout, and require long chimney brushes and expensive liner. Their hoppers are about 1/2 as large and have smaller openings as well. If building a home I would never build a fireplace as they are relics of yesteryear with no purpose other than ambiance (without a pellet or wood insert), and at a huge price in loss of efficiency and capital cost. But people love the look, so builders build them. And if you already have it and it's somewhat near the location you wish to place the stove, they can be fine. I have one of each, and do find the frestanding much easier to maintain, by far. But sometimes you just have to work around what's already there, which is why we also have an insert for basement FP.

No idea as to whether any newer models are quieter, but I think the Quadrafire Mt Vernon AE is still officially the quietest. I own the freestanding model and it's great in shoulder season, but loud enough to warrant significant increase in TV volume when temps in teens or colder and running on medium or higher. Actually, noise is one of the bigger downsides to pellet stoves in my opinion. Worth it, but much louder than most other heat sources.

 

[roadking00]

My guess is that you will have reasonably good air flow to 2nd floor if bedroom / bath doors are left open there. My larger concern is with main floor air flow. Openeing out of LR is not large, with hard right angle to MBR are main concerns, but all homes have challenges. If you like a cool bedroom, should be good.

As for inserts, they can be great; however, they are harder to clean even if on rails that allow for slideout, and require long chimney brushes and expensive liner. Their hoppers are about 1/2 as large and have smaller openings as well. If building a home I would never build a fireplace as they are relics of yesteryear with no purpose other than ambiance (without a pellet or wood insert), and at a huge price in loss of efficiency and capital cost. But people love the look, so builders build them. And if you already have it and it's somewhat near the location you wish to place the stove, they can be fine. I have one of each, and do find the frestanding much easier to maintain, by far. But sometimes you just have to work around what's already there, which is why we also have an insert for basement FP.

No idea as to whether any newer models are quieter, but I think the Quadrafire Mt Vernon AE is still officially the quietest. I own the freestanding model and it's great in shoulder season, but loud enough to warrant significant increase in TV volume when temps in teens or colder and running on medium or higher. Actually, noise is one of the bigger downsides to pellet stoves in my opinion. Worth it, but much louder than most other heat sources.

Thanks Wilbur, I'm assuming if I run my HVAC air handler fan on low which the return vent for the system is right in the hall outside the LR that should also help with circulation of heat throughout the house in the troublesome areas, the entrance to the LR is a 4 ft opening ?

I think for looks mainly the insert is the way to go for me in this room, the hearth is raised by 12" off the floor already and only 21" deep from the front of the fire place so I don't think a freestanding unit will look nearly as good, plus when I discussed the insert option with the wife and she noticed the insert protrudes 6-8" out onto the hearth as it is from the glass front we have now she wasn't to thrilled about that even(she likes to be able to put things there or sit there and have the room....not a complete loss, I have a sun-room /family room eventually getting built off the kitchen that will need heat and will most likely get a freestanding unit for there

Spoke with a dealer down in Charlotte today and seemed very knowledgeable with install's and OAK's with using a dedicated pipe so that's a plus, I didn't realize the liner is a flex type SS pipe all the way up neither (1 piece) thought it would be solid pipe in sections? Is that typical for a install up an existing chimney, mentioned a top plate kit and sealing off the damper area around the new liner with unfaced insulation?

I'm assuming when you say you need a long chimney brush for an insert compared to a freestanding unit that's only if you run the exhaust pipe straight out the back correct ? Or am I missing something ?

Steve

 

[Wilbur Feral]

4 ft opening to Lr is good (but not as good as 6 or 8!). It's all about air flow and letting that heat escape to other rooms. Air handler help will depend on how well ducts are sealed and insulated, and how much they run through unconditioned space. If all good it will help wuite a bit. If not, very little.

Agree on insert, as well. Work with what you have, and dramatically better than the fireplace itself.

A SS flexliner is normal, and works well. Smooth wall of course has less air resistance but is hard to install and get around the damper area,, so they are not commonly used for pellet stoves. That dealer sounds promising, and his install sounds good. Most here like Roxol to seal, but as long as fireproof anything that stops the air exchange is likely good and the dealer should know that very well. For brush, I do mean a brush for that liner. Most here use some variety of drill-powered brush. Personally I just use a good 4" pellet vent brush from Rutland and many sections of threaded rod designed for cleaning chimneys. Works great with a little elbow grease, and you will need to use one, right up (or down) the chimney.

Sounds like progress. Hey, you might even install one by spring!

 

[roadking00]

Thanks again Wilbur....my ductwork does need some attention in the crawl space , will be replacing all with new when I replace the downstairs set up (comp,airhandler etc.) All new insulated duct and slowly but surely in the process of making the crawlspace condition the best I can....I've started using Roxul insulation in my remodel and will be using from now on...great stuff and easy to work with...
Unfortunately there are not many dealers in the area to shop around but seems like he's an honest knowledgeable dealer/installer so hopefully it'll work out, not many choices out there to purchase online and have a stove delivered...definitely familier with the 5' sections of threaded rod and chimney brush...

Don't think it'll happen this spring though...esspecially with my renovation bdrm / bath just reaching the end...wife will bundle up for a while while the limited cold days pop up in order to get the renovation done first...tired of living out of a make shift bdrm in the future dining room tiny little area.. .

 

[Wilbur Feral]

Empathize with you on the remodels. I did three when I was young, with my own labor. This one has been with a bit of my work but probably 80% that of others, as wielding a pen and checkbook gets easier than banging a hammer (and time becomes more scarce, running a business). We're now thinking of switching to building one - a final one, we hope - to get it exactly as we want it.

If you feel you have become reasonably knowledgeable via the forum and dealer discussions, you may be able to save significant dollars in spring on a used stove. With oil prices low, many will put their stove up for sale once they no longer need them in March, April. That's a great time to get a good used stove at a lower price. We are starting to watch Craigslist now, as good stoves go quick. But the folks who buy them to restore and resell may slow up in spring, and more will be available. I am not convinced the extra $ on a new stove are worth it in all cases, having spent thousands on a new one and a few hundred on an old used one. Just a thought...

 

[roadking00]

Empathize with you on the remodels. I did three when I was young, with my own labor. This one has been with a bit of my work but probably 80% that of others, as wielding a pen and checkbook gets easier than banging a hammer (and time becomes more scarce, running a business). We're now thinking of switching to building one - a final one, we hope - to get it exactly as we want it.

If you feel you have become reasonably knowledgeable via the forum and dealer discussions, you may be able to save significant dollars in spring on a used stove. With oil prices low, many will put their stove up for sale once they no longer need them in March, April. That's a great time to get a good used stove at a lower price. We are starting to watch Craigslist now, as good stoves go quick. But the folks who buy them to restore and resell may slow up in spring, and more will be available. I am not convinced the extra $ on a new stove are worth it in all cases, having spent thousands on a new one and a few hundred on an old used one. Just a thought...

I'm actually starting to see a trend in what I do myself slow up a bit as well, much easier to work a little OT at my plant at what I do everyday and pay the pros on what I no longer want to mess with, on top of the trend of my eyesight getting worse as the years accumulate in not helping much either

I'm definitely going to keep an eye out for a used one as well when spring/summer approach but I'm not sure how much of a used market there will be down in these southern parts as compared to up north in NJ/PA/NY area. But then again I have a few friends up in the Stroudsburg/Allentown area and family still in NJ & Upstate NY that can keep an eye out for me as well or even take a look at one for me if I locate one near them?? Never can tell..

 

[roadking00]

Hey Guys,

Still researching quit a bit and visited a Hearth and Patio place locally this week, waiting on a complete price from the owner for a Quadra-Fire Classic Bay 1200i that he recommends and sells a lot of this model but he also said he may know of a past customer of his that may have a Mt.Vernon insert with the Mahogany Porcelain finish I may be able to get for a better deal compared to purchasing it new ? My question is would it not be overkill for that large of a stove for my 1800-1900 sqft home ? Looking at the specs compared to the 1200i its says you can get the burn rate down as low as 1.7 on the Mt.Vernon and only 2.0 on the 1200i , I would imagine I would dramatically loose efficiency running the larger stove throttled back compared to the 1200i at a higher burn rate ? Any thoughts or recommendations on that or am I just over thinking it a little bit ? Or bigger is better and if I can get a great deal so be it the choice to go with?

Thanks again.....my search and research continues, but will for sure have one in service for next fall/winter season

Steve