Lopi Liberty door gasket and door latch

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kversch

Member
Dec 26, 2014
153
New York
Well the stove was cool this afternoon I took a look at the door and just for the hell of it I tried the dollar bill trick. Now when you shut the dollar bill in the door you shouldn't the able to pull it out correct? I ask because I could easily pull the dollar out. Being a brand new stove the gasket shouldn't be an issue correct? Could the door just need adjusting?

Could the gasket leaking air make it difficult to get good secondary's? It would also shorten burn times correct?
 
Hello Kversch,
In my experience using the dollar bill test, you want it to pull firm but not tear. The new gaskets always seat in a bit so adjusting the pull on the latch may be in order. I also have a Liberty and what I've found is dry wood is very important to get the secondaries going good and keep them going. It'll tolerate a few wetter pieces once it's up to temp but prefers dry wood. How far are you closing the air intake? How long is a full load burning? Where I live it's all softwood, pine and aspen. I can run 8-10 hours and still have a 200-350 stove top temp in the morning.
 
Last edited:
Hello Kversch,
In my experience using the dollar bill test, you want it to pull firm but not tear. The new gaskets always seat in a bit so adjusting the pull on the latch may be in order. I also have a Liberty and what I've found is dry wood is very important to get the secondaries going good and keep them going. It'll tolerate a few wetter pieces once it's up to temp but prefers dry wood. How far are you closing the air intake? How long is a full load burning? Where I live it's all softwood, pine and aspen. I can run 8-10 hours and still have a 200-350 stove top temp in the morning.
Thanks for the info.
How do you adjust the pull on the latch? I know some of my wood is a little on the wetter side, I've been trying to sort that out and mix a split here and there. I can't seem to close the air all the way down, or everything goes to a smolder. So what I try to do is close it all the way down and the open it up just a hair. I'll have a warm stove in the morning 6-7 hours later.
 
How do you adjust the pull on the latch?
You remove the nut holding the latch, pull the latch off then remove a washer that is behind the latch. Be sure if you remove a washer you put it somewhere where it won't get lost because if you replace the gasket in the future you will need to put the washer back
 
Someone may chime in an correct me but from what I understand the seemingly loose fit is common with new graphite impregnated gaskets. Apparently, unlike the older style, the graphite fills the voids in the weave when you close the door. They won't be as tight as the old style and when pulling out the bill you essentially have a lubricant which makes it easier. I just look for a snug fit that takes a little bit of effort to pull out and have never had an issue.
 
I agree with Rwhite, about the adjustment. Do you have a stove top thermometer placed on the lower step and centered on the stove? You need to get the stove top temp up around 500-600 before closing the damper down, this will give you a good cruising temp with active secondaries.
 
You remove the nut holding the latch, pull the latch off then remove a washer that is behind the latch. Be sure if you remove a washer you put it somewhere where it won't get lost because if you replace the gasket in the future you will need to put the washer back

IIRC when I had my endeavor I just moved a washer from inside the door to outside the door. I see no reason to "store" a washer that I'd surely lose.
 
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