Lopi tube pin replacement

[madrone]

It's time to replace the missing pins in my stove. I've been just rotating them back into position from time to time, but it's becoming annoying. (I'm not sure why the retainer pin holes are vertical, instead of in the side of the tube. At least then you wouldn't have gravity to contend with.) The local stove shop tells me Travis doesn't offer the push-in retainer pins anymore, as they...fall out. They now sell a kit that includes a tool to drive in a permanent pin. About $40, and not terrifically easy, they say. I tried to find a tension pin that I could hammer in, but I can't find one the right size. I'm considering trying to drive in a SS machine screw, (close quarters for tapping, but seems easy to replace if needed). Any thoughts, experiences on this? Should I just suck it up and buy the kit?

 

[BrotherBart]

I have to ask. Why can't you just use 304 stainless sheet metal screws?

 

[madrone]

That's a good suggestion. The tubes appear to be about 3/32" wall thickness, so I'm not sure how easy that would be to drive in by hand, especially at the back of the stove. Doable I guess, but awkward. If others have done this with success, then that's what I'm looking for.

 

[summit]

this is not hard. i have done many of these pins... get the kit, it will come w/ a hamme like device w/ a needle end. one side of the hammer head is solid, the other is hollow. take the new roll pin and collapse it slighytly on its seam w/ vise grips or pliers, then stick the pin in the hollow end of the tool. line up the airtube sleeve w/ the hole in the tube, and tap the roll pin in with the tool and light raps from a hammer. then spread the pin out w/ the needle end. repeat for the corresponding hole on the nipple coming off the 2ndary air manifold. you can use a big sheet metal screw, but those tubes expand and contract alot, and it will work out.

 

[BrotherBart]

...you can use a big sheet metal screw, but those tubes expand and contract alot..

And so does the screw. And if it ever falls out you have lost forty cents. Mild steel roll pins in that application is nuts. Any friction fit in that application is nuts.

 

[summit]

...you can use a big sheet metal screw, but those tubes expand and contract alot..

And so does the screw. And if it ever falls out you have lost forty cents. Mild steel roll pins in that application is nuts. Any friction fit in that application is nuts.

i dunno, those pins hold up pretty well. the old style used to corrode out and die all the time... the roll pins actually take quite alot of effort to disengage.

 

[snj2k2se]

On my Avalon Ranier I used a SS cotter pin. Opened up the end then pushed it through. Worked well last year, and easy to remove if I need too.
Someone here suggested it when I had the same problem.

 

[fespo]

I went to Home Depot and bought a couple of roll pins close to size. They where a little bigger and longer, I ground one end down a little on the grinder and tapped it in with the hammer. It has not move all last winter with all the bumps i do when loading.

 

[SmokeyStover]

I would stay away from anything that has to be screwed in. If the head snaps off, you'll be doing a lot of drilling in a very tight space to get the stub of the bolt or screw out. The $40. cost sounds like a complete air tube kit which includes all 3 air tubes, the pins and the tool. If your tubes are good, you should be able to buy a pack of six pins for 7 or 8 bucks.

PS I'm a Lopi dealer, 24 years this September.

 

[drdoct]

I've got to figure something out this year on mine too. I tried a little of everything last year to no avail. I'm not going to get some high dollar pin kit from the mfr. It's a shame they couldn't just do it right and put the stupid holes on the side like someone above suggested. I've got one of the early stoves and was surprised to find out they made that mistake over 10 years worth of production. It'll be fixed this coming burn season though or I'll just tack weld the stupid bars in.