Lost all confidence...

[audiolab1]

So this is the second time in the last week that flue temps have peaked at 1300F. New double-wall chimney and PE Fusion stove installed in November by a WETT certified installer. I am now convinced that these EPA stoves are a fire hazard as there is no way to close down the air completely. By the time the temps were climbing, even stuffing the room air supply did not help. This load was on about a 2" coal bed, most of the live coals raked forward, and 4 medium size splits of seasoned oak. Air control was full open for about 2 minutes to get things burning, then closed to 50% for another 5-10mins, then completly closed down after that. Flue temp was just under 600F when the air was closed down completely. I have done all the checks for leaks around the ash clean-out, glass, and door, and everything is fine. I'm going to call the installer back to inspect, but I am at my wits end here.

 

[Hearth Mistress]

I am far from an expert but know when I put too much oak in my stove, it tends to over fire as the BTUs blast the flue temps quick. I mix it with ash or not so good wood otherwise, i know it's bad because the lid on my humidifier bangs from the water boiling fiercely inside.

I am not familiar with your stove but check the door gasket. When we got ours, used from a friend that hardly used it, he had the wrong size gasket so we were getting extra air from the door. Put a dollar bill in the door, if it pulls right out, air is getting in.

There are folks here that plug up air holes with aluminum foil and stuff but I'll leave that up to the experts here to advise on.

It's frustrating when you first start but now a year into it, with the help from everyone here, it was well worth the gray hair and sleepless nights. I LOVE my stove now

Good Luck!

 

[begreen]

Something is not right. This stove is usually pretty easy to control. With the air shut down the flue temps should be much lower. Getting the dealer out there is a god idea. The stove needs to be checked for air leaks, loose air control, door leaks, too strong draft. Have you tried larger, thicker splits?

 

[Todd 2]

Something is not right. This stove is usually pretty easy to control. With the air shut down the flue temps should be much lower. Getting the dealer out there is a god idea. The stove needs to be checked for air leaks, loose air control, door leaks, too strong draft. Have you tried larger, thicker splits?

+1 My PE and my brothers both had great air control even with strong drafting flues.

 

[raybonz]

So this is the second time in the last week that flue temps have peaked at 1300F. New double-wall chimney and PE Fusion stove installed in November by a WETT certified installer. I am now convinced that these EPA stoves are a fire hazard as there is no way to close down the air completely. By the time the temps were climbing, even stuffing the room air supply did not help. This load was on about a 2" coal bed, most of the live coals raked forward, and 4 medium size splits of seasoned oak. Air control was full open for about 2 minutes to get things burning, then closed to 50% for another 5-10mins, then completly closed down after that. Flue temp was just under 600F when the air was closed down completely. I have done all the checks for leaks around the ash clean-out, glass, and door, and everything is fine. I'm going to call the installer back to inspect, but I am at my wits end here.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/t5-performance-update.102616/
This post has lots of info that will apply to you.. Your stove has the same firebox as the T5 and Super 27..

Ray

 

[KodiakII]

I had one burn get away on me when I stuffed in too much pallet wood. After that I resolved no matter what people say I would go no longer without a damper in place. Luckily since it's installation I have never had to try it out.

 

[topoftheriver]

I had one burn get away on me when I stuffed in too much pallet wood. After that I resolved no matter what people say I would go no longer without a damper in place. Luckily since it's installation I have never had to try it out. View attachment 92719

You have to be careful with pallet wood. Generally it is extremely dry hardwood in small enough pieces that will roar to an inferno. I also use pallet wood but in moderation with other woods when the fire needs a boost and it can get hot in there.

 

[KodiakII]

You have to be careful with pallet wood. Generally it is extremely dry hardwood in small enough pieces that will roar to an inferno. I also use pallet wood but in moderation with other woods when the fire needs a boost and it can get hot in there.

Yes indeed. I had never burnt it before...didn't think the mess (nails) was worth the bother, but I scored a bunch of hardwood ones (red oak) from work and figured free firewood is the best firewood. Inexperience and overconfidence with the controllability of my new T6 taught me a good lesson.

 

[topoftheriver]

Yes indeed. I had never burnt it before...didn't think the mess (nails) was worth the bother, but I scored a bunch of hardwood ones (red oak) from work and figured free firewood is the best firewood. Inexperience and overconfidence with the controllability of my new T6 taught me a good lesson.

I bought a magnet at home depot and made a tool. When the fire burns down low, from time to time, I put on the welding gloves and scan the bottom picking up the nails, and put them in a couple gallong tin with cover. It isn't too bad, just a pain if you catch my drift. But I mix the pallet wood in with some of the questionable wood so it burns better.