Dylan said:
Is Dylan proposing what might be a hearth.com first - a soapstone sofa? :lol:
I think there could be a market here! Let the flame war begin from the steel and cast iron sofa fans...
-Colin
Lots of questions about soapstone stoves...long
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Is Dylan proposing what might be a hearth.com first - a soapstone sofa? :lol:
I think there could be a market here! Let the flame war begin from the steel and cast iron sofa fans...
-Colin
The choice is yours did you also know that optional glass doors were made for that stove and possibly could be purchased, again a lot cheaper than new soap stone
That stove also has the option fire screen where the doors are swung open anfd you can enjoy the full fire view like any fireplace it would produce some heat
This stove has all that currently. I am in a bit of a pickle on what to do with it. I have heard before that it is considered a very good stove and that some say VC is not what it used to be.
Where could one find a manual for this stove? or least how to service it.
Since we have two small curtain climbers 3 and 5 year olds we do not open the doors and burn that way. I kind of like the idea of seeing the fire with the doors closed.
I am half considering if replacing ti using it in the garage but the stove is really in nice shape. I would really like to get a cleaner burning stove.
One note is I have not been using the down draft feature door as it seem to kind of turn to smoldering/ ash build up behind that panel. Should one be able to remove that panel with out totally taking the stove apart?
If one was to keep it should the whole stove be taken aprt and then resealed part by part and where does one find the correct sealer and how to clean the old sealer off. I will post a picture in a few mintues of this stove and how our upstairs unit is set up.
That stove also has the option fire screen where the doors are swung open anfd you can enjoy the full fire view like any fireplace it would produce some heat
This stove has all that currently. I am in a bit of a pickle on what to do with it. I have heard before that it is considered a very good stove and that some say VC is not what it used to be.
Where could one find a manual for this stove? or least how to service it.
Since we have two small curtain climbers 3 and 5 year olds we do not open the doors and burn that way. I kind of like the idea of seeing the fire with the doors closed.
I am half considering if replacing ti using it in the garage but the stove is really in nice shape. I would really like to get a cleaner burning stove.
One note is I have not been using the down draft feature door as it seem to kind of turn to smoldering/ ash build up behind that panel. Should one be able to remove that panel with out totally taking the stove apart?
If one was to keep it should the whole stove be taken aprt and then resealed part by part and where does one find the correct sealer and how to clean the old sealer off. I will post a picture in a few mintues of this stove and how our upstairs unit is set up.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b148/struggle_/DCP_2024.jpg current stove/location
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b148/struggle_/DCP_2026.jpg upstairs unit. There is a bit of story behind this when a furniture decorator came out to access the layout etc of this room she suggested we PIANT THE BRICK, we never bit on that thankfully.
Chimney-chimney http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b148/struggle_/DCP_2027.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b148/struggle_/DCP_2026.jpg upstairs unit. There is a bit of story behind this when a furniture decorator came out to access the layout etc of this room she suggested we PIANT THE BRICK, we never bit on that thankfully.
Chimney-chimney http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b148/struggle_/DCP_2027.jpg
Hearthstone Mansfield or Woodstock Fireview? I would appreciate hearing from folks who have owned, burned or seen both burn in person. I am thinking I want a soapstone stove for my house and could use some real-world testimonial advice.
Thank you, Josh
Thank you, Josh
the secondary air supply is blocked so you are not going to get any use out of secondary air and dampering
Honest assesment These were some of the finest VC ever built they were truely air tight This is not the 70 version this is a couple of models of refinements.
the polution issue is not the same as the earlier 70's stoves. If rehabed an and the opperator understands how to properly work that stove it can be damn near equal to EPA stoves
EPA stoves added secondary non adjustiable non user intervention secondary air to burn cleaner, they had to idiot proof stoves. If the user understands how to opperate that stove and regulate the air supply and damper and the stove with all gaskets working, air passages clear,and dry wood there is no reason one can't approach clean burning.
your picture show the clasic example of needing to be brought to to spec, the whitish power like look at you oval to round adapter is from over firing
I believe your stove is a good canidate worthy of mantaince As for soapstone with children, they still can get badly burned from touching the glass or vent
Here is a link to a parts supplier for your stove plus an exploded view of your stove parts Like I said it maybe possible to swap doors to glass doors for viewing
Also check this web site for older parts the Woodsman is a wealth of knowledge concerning your stove and another parts supplier.
http://www.discountstove.com/partsvcwbfreestanding.htm
Members here and myself can help instruct how to go about replacing gasketing Read my wiki about primer to purchasing a used stove and light test your stove for seam leaks
You may only need gasketing. I can also advise hoe to re seam some area without requiring a total rebuild. If you are like me, I take great pleasure enjoying the fruits of my labor
If not into getting your hands dirty and ash dust then new is the way to go. IT just be me and my outlook. may be a bit not as modern I like clasic cars I like making things work I donot mind a mechanical challange. I hate to waste usable things and throw them away because the batteries died. But not all have this same feeling and not app the patience needed to get their hands dirty. We have become a disposable society, where little is repaired but replaced I'm from a differnt school of thought but I ok with the modern disposible society they supply me with my tractors lawn mowers chain saws excersize equipment for my wife My autos It works for me
Honest assesment These were some of the finest VC ever built they were truely air tight This is not the 70 version this is a couple of models of refinements.
the polution issue is not the same as the earlier 70's stoves. If rehabed an and the opperator understands how to properly work that stove it can be damn near equal to EPA stoves
EPA stoves added secondary non adjustiable non user intervention secondary air to burn cleaner, they had to idiot proof stoves. If the user understands how to opperate that stove and regulate the air supply and damper and the stove with all gaskets working, air passages clear,and dry wood there is no reason one can't approach clean burning.
your picture show the clasic example of needing to be brought to to spec, the whitish power like look at you oval to round adapter is from over firing
I believe your stove is a good canidate worthy of mantaince As for soapstone with children, they still can get badly burned from touching the glass or vent
Here is a link to a parts supplier for your stove plus an exploded view of your stove parts Like I said it maybe possible to swap doors to glass doors for viewing
Also check this web site for older parts the Woodsman is a wealth of knowledge concerning your stove and another parts supplier.
http://www.discountstove.com/partsvcwbfreestanding.htm
Members here and myself can help instruct how to go about replacing gasketing Read my wiki about primer to purchasing a used stove and light test your stove for seam leaks
You may only need gasketing. I can also advise hoe to re seam some area without requiring a total rebuild. If you are like me, I take great pleasure enjoying the fruits of my labor
If not into getting your hands dirty and ash dust then new is the way to go. IT just be me and my outlook. may be a bit not as modern I like clasic cars I like making things work I donot mind a mechanical challange. I hate to waste usable things and throw them away because the batteries died. But not all have this same feeling and not app the patience needed to get their hands dirty. We have become a disposable society, where little is repaired but replaced I'm from a differnt school of thought but I ok with the modern disposible society they supply me with my tractors lawn mowers chain saws excersize equipment for my wife My autos It works for me
Boy oh boy you are tugging at me now to keep it. I am almost sure at the bottom of the stove on the front the sealant is going to need redoing and other places as well. The gasket to the griddle (now I know what it is) Is hard and the seal on the windows clearly are not sealing the best now that I know a little more at what to look for. One concern would be taking it apart and broken fastneres along the way.
As for getting a little dirty I am a Master ASE auto tech so that is no problem.
I guess I am kind of hung up on the soapstone stove for looks and quality of burn time, but I am really rethinking this think now. Money is there to replace this stove but now am on the fence on what to do.
I am going to check this site out you linked.
I just am not real big on leaving the doors open but would rather see the fire with them closed hence the new stove would do that.
We do have a complete surround fence that does go around the wood stove that is not in place as we are not currently firing the woodstove as we use the upstairs for now.
I must say I really really like this site and the people and onfo so far. I would guess that a lot of people go blind into the Fireplace/woodstove store and it helps sell a lot stuff that way.
How big of a job would it be to rebuild/seal the whole stove? hours? WOuld it be best to disassemble in place or take it out to the garage and lay it out on the floor? What kind of items would I need to get so I could complete it in a day or two?
Thanks so much for your info
As for getting a little dirty I am a Master ASE auto tech so that is no problem.
I guess I am kind of hung up on the soapstone stove for looks and quality of burn time, but I am really rethinking this think now. Money is there to replace this stove but now am on the fence on what to do.
I am going to check this site out you linked.
I just am not real big on leaving the doors open but would rather see the fire with them closed hence the new stove would do that.
We do have a complete surround fence that does go around the wood stove that is not in place as we are not currently firing the woodstove as we use the upstairs for now.
I must say I really really like this site and the people and onfo so far. I would guess that a lot of people go blind into the Fireplace/woodstove store and it helps sell a lot stuff that way.
How big of a job would it be to rebuild/seal the whole stove? hours? WOuld it be best to disassemble in place or take it out to the garage and lay it out on the floor? What kind of items would I need to get so I could complete it in a day or two?
Thanks so much for your info
Hi,
I have met someone who lives close to where I am building now; He owns the Hearthstone Mansfield(I think its' the Mansfield, but definitely sure it is a Hearthstone). I have seen the stove and set up in person. He loves his, says is even heat with no swings in temperature. He has had his 2-3 years. I chose the Woodstock Fireview(no actual experience yet-house just now dried in) because of the reviews on this site, appearance of the stove, and correspondence from other Woodstock stove owners.
Good luck in your search.
SG
I have met someone who lives close to where I am building now; He owns the Hearthstone Mansfield(I think its' the Mansfield, but definitely sure it is a Hearthstone). I have seen the stove and set up in person. He loves his, says is even heat with no swings in temperature. He has had his 2-3 years. I chose the Woodstock Fireview(no actual experience yet-house just now dried in) because of the reviews on this site, appearance of the stove, and correspondence from other Woodstock stove owners.
Good luck in your search.
SG
A rebuild would be childs play for you a lot easier than removing a fuel injector rail or doing manifold gaskets.
Do you de- greases engines before you work on them? well think of your stove this way. Take it outside infront of your garage hook up your compressor witha blow gun wearing a dust protector blow that sucker out It will create so much dust you will see if the seams leak then get your shop vac out and finish the job. The best way to do this is to remove the top. held on by stove cement an 4 1/4" threaded rods 7/16" nuts on the bottom or the stove p blast then a couple ot times. If the snap that's ok any 1/4 threaded rods will work. What I do is replace all bolts and nuts with stainless steel ones just incase I ever want to remove them again I have a a post a month or two back where I included pictures of doing this exact same rebuild to a Resolute Acclaim. When all clean I would take out parts and wire brush them and Hight temp black paint them when done not only will you stove run as new it will snell as new and your will have to break it in as new and it will look as new. After the clean out move it into the garage and work on it It can be done in a couple of days. With the top off and all ash out using a putty knife and wire brush clean out all seams then vac it again the bttom grates also come out. at that point you may be able to caulk all seams with refactory cement using a caulking gun your puty knife and a squeeze tube./ You can probably tighten that stove up to new specs possibly even better. without total dissesembly with the pop off anf flue collar off getting at the damper plate gasket is easy you will need another flue collar gasket. Do not streech the gaskets. If the viligent is like the resolute tha outer decoritive plates bolt off here you can attack seame with the caulking gun from the outside as well If weight is a problem you can put the stove in place and finish a much lighter to move stove essembly in place.
If you refurbish that stove, you will enjoy the fruint of your labor and respect what you have done with self pride. It will mean more to you than any newly bought stove.
If still wanting a new one frett not you just increased the vallue of that old clunker by 100% you get to bragg about your rebuild hopefully with pictures here on the forum and help and encourage others to do the same Oh yeah the chineese did not get that stove for scrap metal
Well thats it. I am going to call up a few people tonight and haul it out to the garage.
Where would I get the paint from? Special paint?
The seam sealer how does one get that/what kind. Is it all the same. It sounds like it comes in tubes for the small gun. Would I just chip away at the old sealant and just seal it like one would a shower stall?
Is there a gasket kit for such a stove? Do i just call the place you listed for such a thing for that. Or do I order each gasket one by one?
Once I get this in the garage I will end up staying out there until this is completed.
Does the piant hold up well when it is a repaint/ what kind of prep should be done to clean it prior to painting it as far as solvents are concerned. If I do this I want it to be a first rate finish :coolsmile:
Where would I get the paint from? Special paint?
The seam sealer how does one get that/what kind. Is it all the same. It sounds like it comes in tubes for the small gun. Would I just chip away at the old sealant and just seal it like one would a shower stall?
Is there a gasket kit for such a stove? Do i just call the place you listed for such a thing for that. Or do I order each gasket one by one?
Once I get this in the garage I will end up staying out there until this is completed.
Does the piant hold up well when it is a repaint/ what kind of prep should be done to clean it prior to painting it as far as solvents are concerned. If I do this I want it to be a first rate finish :coolsmile:
Any 1200 degree high heat paint will work Goto rutland .com got to go back to work but will try to instruct and help you threw this rebuild get a vc gasket kit for that stove from and Vc dealer of the site I mentioned make sure you get another flue collar gasket If you can't get a gasket kit then I can tell you the griddle gasket is 1/4 gragite type of rope gasket
Stove cement or gasket cement are the same product made by rutland the can be found at HD Aubuchon or Ace hardware stores and gaskets I would buy a tube of gasket refactory or furnace cement for you caulking gun you also might consider a small plastic pail of stove cement as well. Do the light test first. If you live next door we you would have that stove burning fires by the weekend possibly sooner The Encore gasket kit is the same from VC
Get organized tonight get it to the garage and a 600lb two wheeler works wonders as does a piano dolly for rolling it in and out of the garage. Look at my rebuild pictures
plan it out tonight pb blast every bolt you see especially the 4 nuts underneath to the 4 threaded rods
Stove cement or gasket cement are the same product made by rutland the can be found at HD Aubuchon or Ace hardware stores and gaskets I would buy a tube of gasket refactory or furnace cement for you caulking gun you also might consider a small plastic pail of stove cement as well. Do the light test first. If you live next door we you would have that stove burning fires by the weekend possibly sooner The Encore gasket kit is the same from VC
Get organized tonight get it to the garage and a 600lb two wheeler works wonders as does a piano dolly for rolling it in and out of the garage. Look at my rebuild pictures
plan it out tonight pb blast every bolt you see especially the 4 nuts underneath to the 4 threaded rods
I ordered the gasket kit, two tubes of sealant(gun type) and two cans of paint from the website you posted.
I talked a bit to them (dave) and they shot me a much better price on the soapstone than the other dealer and that was delivered to my house.
I told my wife the plan of attack and she is on board with it. Thinks I still crazy though but once I explained the white pipe and leaks she understands it now.
After looking at the bottom plate I am sure it will need to be resealed and I am taking the approach to completley dismantel and make as good as new.
Anyone know what the exact weight of this thing is? I am figuring three strong could carry it out? I called a friend he though a fridge cart would be best but I have berber carpet and am very concerned of snagging that on a cart. Carpet cost almost as much as a woodstove.
I talked a bit to them (dave) and they shot me a much better price on the soapstone than the other dealer and that was delivered to my house.
I told my wife the plan of attack and she is on board with it. Thinks I still crazy though but once I explained the white pipe and leaks she understands it now.
After looking at the bottom plate I am sure it will need to be resealed and I am taking the approach to completley dismantel and make as good as new.
Anyone know what the exact weight of this thing is? I am figuring three strong could carry it out? I called a friend he though a fridge cart would be best but I have berber carpet and am very concerned of snagging that on a cart. Carpet cost almost as much as a woodstove.
Here what you can remove to lighten the load the =doors the bottom ash grate the griddle cover you can also remove the flue collar you may also figuer out how to remove inside back plate ahd the outside decrative casings plates I bleieve they are bolted on at this point onec outside in the garage donot remove the frame yet also you man need allen wrenches to remove the handles.
This is good having wife doubt you abilities. mine does it all the time Replacing a window are you shue you know what you are doing? My response seems to put her back in perspective " why do you know anybody better at doing this" Your a mehcanic It will make the rebuild even sweeter. "See honey I knew what I was doing." Can't believe you doubted my mechanical ability.
Wives know how to play you but that's a two way street knowing how to play them as well
get some duct tape and tapeplastic over the door openint and removed flue collar opening get cardboard to put down to protect the carpet and get a two and good rope or strap I moved my stoves in and out of my home without any help using a two wheel hand truck only one step I ramped
This is good having wife doubt you abilities. mine does it all the time Replacing a window are you shue you know what you are doing? My response seems to put her back in perspective " why do you know anybody better at doing this" Your a mehcanic It will make the rebuild even sweeter. "See honey I knew what I was doing." Can't believe you doubted my mechanical ability.
Wives know how to play you but that's a two way street knowing how to play them as well
get some duct tape and tapeplastic over the door openint and removed flue collar opening get cardboard to put down to protect the carpet and get a two and good rope or strap I moved my stoves in and out of my home without any help using a two wheel hand truck only one step I ramped
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b148/struggle_/DCP_2029.jpg
Here is what shows up after the bigger panel is removed. It was coming apart well until now. I am trying to figure out how to get the lower panel out? It wiggles a bit but still a no go.
The air delivery tub thingy that runs along the left side wall has a screw in the front of the stove and one in the middle of the tube center but both are tighter than well a #### ####. I am wondering if that is holding the lower rear panel in or should it slide up and out like the other. The seals on the joints look to be very lilkey leaking but will only find this out after I have it outside to blow out and then light test.
Thanks so far.
Here is what shows up after the bigger panel is removed. It was coming apart well until now. I am trying to figure out how to get the lower panel out? It wiggles a bit but still a no go.
The air delivery tub thingy that runs along the left side wall has a screw in the front of the stove and one in the middle of the tube center but both are tighter than well a #### ####. I am wondering if that is holding the lower rear panel in or should it slide up and out like the other. The seals on the joints look to be very lilkey leaking but will only find this out after I have it outside to blow out and then light test.
Thanks so far.
OK Elkimmeg
I cannot seem to get the lower panle off? Maybe it comes out after the sides are off? It will wiggle back and forth but I am trying not to force it.
I managed after much twisting to break/snape the screw holding the left side primary mainfold that goes into the side panel.
I spot checked the front of the stove with a flashlight and see light in many a places. It seems as if the sealant has just dissapeard completely in places other places it is all in tact.
Wainting for a freind to stop by later tonight to get it outside. I think I have shed about a #100lbs out of it so far. I hope to be able to work the screw out with a PB and maybe some heat.
I cannot seem to get the lower panle off? Maybe it comes out after the sides are off? It will wiggle back and forth but I am trying not to force it.
I managed after much twisting to break/snape the screw holding the left side primary mainfold that goes into the side panel.
I spot checked the front of the stove with a flashlight and see light in many a places. It seems as if the sealant has just dissapeard completely in places other places it is all in tact.
Wainting for a freind to stop by later tonight to get it outside. I think I have shed about a #100lbs out of it so far. I hope to be able to work the screw out with a PB and maybe some heat.
Thanks Dylan,
Everything is out of the stove now short of taking the legs off and sides. The thin panel in the rear that appears to have been factory sealed was not sealed at the end so off it came to. THis leads me to the question as to what shoudl be sealed for inside panels on reassembly? Is that the only one. The reason I ask is after I finally got the lower panel out there is what looks like sealant that has come off of something laying in the bottom of that area. Maybe it was from the rear panel last part I removed ? It was the only place I saw that appeared to have sealant of some sort.
I am sure two people (strong) can carry the stove out now. I am going to get the ashes out of it now and then out to the garage it goes.
Whne the paint and seals show up in a couple of days my question is do I reassembly the side and seal then paint or paint each panel the seal assembly. Logic tells me seal assembly then paint as the sealant would adhere better this way. Which way do you the experts thin to go with this :blank:
Everything is out of the stove now short of taking the legs off and sides. The thin panel in the rear that appears to have been factory sealed was not sealed at the end so off it came to. THis leads me to the question as to what shoudl be sealed for inside panels on reassembly? Is that the only one. The reason I ask is after I finally got the lower panel out there is what looks like sealant that has come off of something laying in the bottom of that area. Maybe it was from the rear panel last part I removed ? It was the only place I saw that appeared to have sealant of some sort.
I am sure two people (strong) can carry the stove out now. I am going to get the ashes out of it now and then out to the garage it goes.
Whne the paint and seals show up in a couple of days my question is do I reassembly the side and seal then paint or paint each panel the seal assembly. Logic tells me seal assembly then paint as the sealant would adhere better this way. Which way do you the experts thin to go with this :blank:
take a few pictures to get me up to speed as to where you are at. Do yourself a favor and don't go nuts taking that thing apart just yet
I have methods that can save you a lot of time and agrevation to get you there and some safe guards will make reessembly easier
A couple of additional helpfull tools you may need is ratchet holding straps, bar clamps, c clamps and a piece of plywood
the plywood or1 by2 two scrap pine Needed to make up gigs. to hold the pannells in place for re essembly and placement
there are two approaches one can take particial dissesembly and complete. with the top off and side panells off,
one can get to just about all the joints without futher dissesembly
here oncan scrape all loose cement out of the verticle plate joints. using a utility knife and a tourch tip cleaning rod sand paper but still leaving the rest of the sides in tac once the seams have all the rloose cement removed I said loose nosense removing cement that is not loose again blow gun to clean it up and blow out lose cement
remember I said you may want to build gigs with the top off build a gig out of 2/2 stwood straps that equals the exact size ot the existing opening you may want to use drywall screws in the essembly now build a gig thar mirrors the outside perimeter but build it larger like 1/2" you will need slme shingle tips to act a spacers or wedges becausr the outside is bigger it allows you to tip out the pallel and further clean the joints to line it back up use the 1/4 wedges shingle tips on all sides. that the hard way
the easy way blow out all loose cement with out moving the frame gunk refractioy cemnet in there witha caulking gun leaving a healthy bead on all joints with you finger pi=utty knife push it into the seam so that it squirts threw go over it witha smooth aother halthy bead a using you finger and light pressure Light ehought to smooth it on the outside whicj nobody can see place anbther bead and smooth it in a bit with your finger all joints many be able to be reseamed with out removing the sides of the box including health beads around the bottom plate seal from th inside and outside if you have access. there is no need for complete dissesembly and no real advantage and you may not need the use of the gig. do the bottom last.
If you remove the top and the plates that comprise th box fall off all bets are off use the ratchet banding strap before tapping the top off to hold them in position after you doo the verticle seams cramk that ratchet strap up to apply pressure to your new cemented joints that a good time to have that top interior two c clamps just to hold it in place while you crank that ratchet strapgig place it in the middle of the stove
I have methods that can save you a lot of time and agrevation to get you there and some safe guards will make reessembly easier
A couple of additional helpfull tools you may need is ratchet holding straps, bar clamps, c clamps and a piece of plywood
the plywood or1 by2 two scrap pine Needed to make up gigs. to hold the pannells in place for re essembly and placement
there are two approaches one can take particial dissesembly and complete. with the top off and side panells off,
one can get to just about all the joints without futher dissesembly
here oncan scrape all loose cement out of the verticle plate joints. using a utility knife and a tourch tip cleaning rod sand paper but still leaving the rest of the sides in tac once the seams have all the rloose cement removed I said loose nosense removing cement that is not loose again blow gun to clean it up and blow out lose cement
remember I said you may want to build gigs with the top off build a gig out of 2/2 stwood straps that equals the exact size ot the existing opening you may want to use drywall screws in the essembly now build a gig thar mirrors the outside perimeter but build it larger like 1/2" you will need slme shingle tips to act a spacers or wedges becausr the outside is bigger it allows you to tip out the pallel and further clean the joints to line it back up use the 1/4 wedges shingle tips on all sides. that the hard way
the easy way blow out all loose cement with out moving the frame gunk refractioy cemnet in there witha caulking gun leaving a healthy bead on all joints with you finger pi=utty knife push it into the seam so that it squirts threw go over it witha smooth aother halthy bead a using you finger and light pressure Light ehought to smooth it on the outside whicj nobody can see place anbther bead and smooth it in a bit with your finger all joints many be able to be reseamed with out removing the sides of the box including health beads around the bottom plate seal from th inside and outside if you have access. there is no need for complete dissesembly and no real advantage and you may not need the use of the gig. do the bottom last.
If you remove the top and the plates that comprise th box fall off all bets are off use the ratchet banding strap before tapping the top off to hold them in position after you doo the verticle seams cramk that ratchet strap up to apply pressure to your new cemented joints that a good time to have that top interior two c clamps just to hold it in place while you crank that ratchet strapgig place it in the middle of the stove
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