Lots of questions about soapstone stoves...long

[struggle]

I am new to this board and very happy to find it. I am located in NW iowa.

I currently use a VC vgilanti to heat our entire house all winter long. Something are concerning as that it heats at a hotter temp than what is comfortable for being in the basement when going all afternoon. It is also a wood hog and seems to burn in the not so effecinet manner compared to the stoves now days.

Our home is just under 1,500 sq ft and ranch style. Have a clay tiled chimney (8"). I had to have a custom built stainless steel baffle for the top as I was having constant down draft issues but sine the custom top is on it suck like a jet engine (slightly exag..)

I am looking to replace the current VC stove and go with a Soapstone stove. I recently drove 160 miles to look at several HearthStone stoves. I also am awaitng for info from Woodstock as well.

After reading some reveiws Hearthstone seems to get some downward marks and the Woodstock seems to be A++ all the way.

My hopes with the new unit is to heat all day with it and fill before going to bed to keep our house warm. With the current VC it heats so well that it roast us out of the basement. Will switching to a Soapy elimnate this and how durable are the soap stoves?

I like the idea of not having a cat which the Woodstock has. With the Hearthsone models do the air tubes need to be replaced/often/serviced like a cat would need service?

Also what size of stove for 1,500 sq ft? I like the Heritage rated for 1,900 sq ft the best. The side load is a must I figure.

I will come up with more questions I am sure.

This is a dedicated heat source in our home as I really enjoy cutting/splitting wood and heating this way. For the last 3 years our power company has come out and checked us for concerns of cheating with the gas meter as we show no gas usage. This spring I had them come out and turn it off so as not to pay the service charge for the meter. So now you know how important it is for me to get the right size stove. Our winter here can be very windy and noraml for below 0 weather.

Thanks
Struggle

 

[cbrodsky]

I am new to this board and very happy to find it. I am located in NW iowa.

I currently use a VC vgilanti to heat our entire house all winter long. Something are concerning as that it heats at a hotter temp than what is comfortable for being in the basement when going all afternoon. It is also a wood hog and seems to burn in the not so effecinet manner compared to the stoves now days.

Our home is just under 1,500 sq ft and ranch style. Have a clay tiled chimney (8"). I had to have a custom built stainless steel baffle for the top as I was having constant down draft issues but sine the custom top is on it suck like a jet engine (slightly exag..)

I am looking to replace the current VC stove and go with a Soapstone stove. I recently drove 160 miles to look at several HearthStone stoves. I also am awaitng for info from Woodstock as well.

After reading some reveiws Hearthstone seems to get some downward marks and the Woodstock seems to be A++ all the way.

My hopes with the new unit is to heat all day with it and fill before going to bed to keep our house warm. With the current VC it heats so well that it roast us out of the basement. Will switching to a Soapy elimnate this and how durable are the soap stoves?

I like the idea of not having a cat which the Woodstock has. With the Hearthsone models do the air tubes need to be replaced/often/serviced like a cat would need service?

Also what size of stove for 1,500 sq ft? I like the Heritage rated for 1,900 sq ft the best. The side load is a must I figure.

I will come up with more questions I am sure.

This is a dedicated heat source in our home as I really enjoy cutting/splitting wood and heating this way. For the last 3 years our power company has come out and checked us for concerns of cheating with the gas meter as we show no gas usage. This spring I had them come out and turn it off so as not to pay the service charge for the meter. So now you know how important it is for me to get the right size stove. Our winter here can be very windy and noraml for below 0 weather.

Thanks
Struggle

What kind of surface temperatures are you finding on your current stove make it uncomfortable?

My impression from this website is that Hearthstone users (there are many) are generally very happy with their stoves as well so I wouldn't be particularly concerned with ratings of one versus the other - both brands are very well regarded and well suited for what you say you want to do which is dampen out and extend burn intervals. The big difference is cat vs. non-cat and that generally sparks a massive debate.

I went with a cat stove because it is very easy to run it at low burn rates after lightoff without dropping efficiency by losing secondary burn. For my application, that was worth the cost of a cat at about $100 every 6 years. Secondary burn avoids that expense, but generally needs to run a little hotter in steady state to make sure you don't lose the extra efficiency. Either is going to be way better than an older non-EPA stove. The "servicing" of a cat is quite straightforward - a couple times a year you lift the top panel of the stove, remove the cat that is just laying there, vaccum it or blow it with a duster, and drop it back in. Don't even need bolts, and can do it when warm with gloves in about 1-2 minutes. I agonized back and forth on the cat decision back when I was originally debating going with a VC stove because there are a lot of scare tactics used by non-cat dealers that make them sound terribly complex. Since using one, I won't ever go back to non-cat - as a chemical engineer, I am convinced that the science behind them is sound and yields a real advantage when run properly, but you pay an average ongoing price of ~$20/year for it. I'll warn you that you can expect equally vehement opinions on both sides of this issue

One other consideration for me that may or may not be an issue for you was that I was looking for a model without a front door due to my hearth considerations - I wanted to minimize hearth extension from the front of the stove, and not having a door makes that easier - I was able to keep the front of my stove only 8" from combustibles. Kind of a unique situation due to my install that probably won't impact you if you already have a front-loading stove.

You mention your stove is in the basement - do you have good opportunity to get heat to the other parts of your house? Is it possible that you have so little circulation that pretty much any stove down there would bake you out?

In general, either company's stone stoves will do the job of moderating heat output (in fact, limiting peak BTUs) and enabling you to get longer burn cycles.

Among the woodstocks, the Fireview has a larger firebox which is great for long burns. But, no free lunch - you give up the ash pan. There are other users w/the smaller models that include an ashpan and they like them as well. I wouldn't really make a decision based on max BTU rating - I'd say determine how often you want to reload vs. how much you want the ashpan to break a tie - both stoves can be controlled very well to give the heat output you need. Just a matter of how long the wood will last.

I'm not as familiar w/the Hearthstone choices, but others will give you input there.

The one other consideration you may have is that if you're not running a liner, you may end up needing to run hotter exhaust temperatures that some of us run in order to avoid draft and creosote problems. This might be one factor that limits how much you can damp down any stove you get, which is why I asked how good your air circulation is out of the basement.

-Colin

 

[Gunner]

#DISCLAIMER#
Rookie burner advice

Unless you have an effective way of moving the heat or an unique layout I think any stove in the basement will bake you out if trying to heat the whole house with it alone.

I have a gas stove in my basement that will turn the basement into a sauna and upstairs is cold due to lower ceiling height and the stairs in the corner of the house.

IMO, soap,steel,or cast the stove should go on the main level.

 

[struggle]

My bad. The house is completely finsihed. Basement insulated and framed drywalled, 8 1/2 foot ceiling. The basement is where we spend must of our time in the winter. It is an open kind of floor plan and the current stove is centered in end wall. All bedrooms etc main floor. Basement is more of the casual fun room. Home theater set up etc. I have a vent off to the side of the VC in the ceiling to allow heat to go up stairs and one in hallway (with booster fan,4", on controlled timer switch) also one the goes into duct work on another wall hooked up to the same timer switch for pulling hot air upstairs.

My concern is with getting a soapstone stove is how it will heat the whole house compared to what we currently have which is a Vigilant and the rear plate says safety tested 1980 on the back of the stove.

1. My concern is will say a Heritage Woodstove said to be able to heat 1,900 sq ft be able to heat better than the current stove.

a. I just called the nearest dealerto me two mintues ago and they have one and are offering it a price of $2,199.... is that a good price?

2. What can I expect from a soapstone coming from a very hot burning VC. I do believe the VC needs to be resealed but all the panels and sides are free from warrping.

3. Instead of firing the VC at noon will I be able to keep the Soapy running from the previous night to maintain a constant temp in house.

4. I currently sweep the chimney twice during the winter and get close to half a 5 gallon pale of cresoote out each time sometimes less. Will the soapstone burn much cleaner so less chimney buildup.

5. Is the cat vs non cat one better than the other?

6. I currently do nothing to the present stove other than fill it up and light. What would be needed for maintanace for a soapstone.

7. Have a clay tiled 8" chimney. any problem with hooking up a 6" stove to that for chimeny performance.

8. What are the ideal buring temps for a soapstone. Where to check temp? Our last guage took a dump from being to hot leaving it on the top of the stove I guess.

9. Does one continuly add a peice of wood every couple of hours to a soapstone to keep it buring or let it burn almost completely out before adding wood.

10. My wood is split and stored for two years prior to burning. If using a non cat sopastone can one add some scrap wood to heat it up for the main fire? I pretty much throw just about anything to atart the VC going with out any problem so far.

11. What is everyones thought on the Heritage Woodstove? TIps ideas suggestions.

I looked online at the Fireveiw from woodstock and the only draw back to me right no that one is I have to orded it and the pipe exits the back where with my current set up my pipe goes straight up from the stove and then turns into the wall to the chimney.

 

[suematteva]

hello Struggle,

We are going into our 5 th year with the hearthstone Mansfield. Product and service from both dealer and factory have been excellent and would buy another one.

The secondary burn system is all heavy duty stainless no problems..checked at the dealerthey told me not to worry about after explaining burn habits. Used to get around a cup of real dry ash when cleaning chimney, this year 1/2 to 3/4 cup.

We are in cold climate and snowbelt, she has not let us down once. I can load at 9:30- 10 pm and at 6 am plenty of coals to get her back up to speed..Usually we burn a minimum of 5 cord of well seasoned hardwood every winter..

We had steel/cast stove prior and it did get hot when she was running, probably could have powered a locomotive, kept the house warm, went through more wood 25-35 percent. Having had both stoves we prefer the soapstone one, am comparing a pre epa stove to pretty much 20 year newer technology though... we find it has more even heat than the previous stove and while it heats house it isn't like the sauna the other one could be. Both stoves are/were in the same insulated basement.

The heritage is probably the right size for your place as I think it gets pretty nasty in your neck of the woods. A number of regular members have both the heritage and the woodstock stoves and am sure they will be giving input.

 

[struggle]

#DISCLAIMER#
Rookie burner advice

Unless you have an effective way of moving the heat or an unique layout I think any stove in the basement will bake you out if trying to heat the whole house with it alone.

I have a gas stove in my basement that will turn the basement into a sauna and upstairs is cold due to lower ceiling height and the stairs in the corner of the house.

IMO, soap,steel,or cast the stove should go on the main level.

The upstairs of our house has a complete fireplace that has an outside air intake and two bottom fans. The whole thing is mde of Cheerokee marble and will on a night into the mid teens, after last filling, will keep the house warm to 71 degrees from last nights dip down to 19F.

If you look in my post below just above you will see I have added small fans (2) and also the stairs to go up to north side of the ouse which at the top of the stairs heat flow both left and right to circulate. Last year we had several below 0 nights and some days only just above 0 and we were able to keep the house very warm. We usually never wear more the shorts and t-shirts in the winter in the house.

I just want to find a stove that burns cleaner and uses less wood that will maintain current expections of the VC. I would actually rather burn longer times at a more even temp than the current hotter shorter running time using the current VC Vigilant. One dealer also mentioned that the Vigilant was desinged for a square footage of 1,900-2,500 and we are at just under 1,500.

We have also had a energy audit from power company and based on build of the house nothing could helps us energy wise short of putting in a heat pump in when current A/C fails and go to all electric as we have no other need for nat. gas other than furnance.

 

[Gunner]

#DISCLAIMER#
Rookie burner advice

Unless you have an effective way of moving the heat or an unique layout I think any stove in the basement will bake you out if trying to heat the whole house with it alone.

I have a gas stove in my basement that will turn the basement into a sauna and upstairs is cold due to lower ceiling height and the stairs in the corner of the house.

IMO, soap,steel,or cast the stove should go on the main level.

Disregard above post now that I see you are using your basement as livingspace.

 

[suematteva]

Struggle ours is livingspace also.

You were getting 2 1/2 gallons of ash/creosote out of the chimney with two year old wood? 2 times a year?

 

[struggle]

Struggle ours is livingspace also.

You were getting 2 1/2 gallons of ash/creosote out of the chimney with two year old wood? 2 times a year?

It seems last year to be maybe slightly less than that. We burn a truck load ever two weeks though in the winter everyday from when it goes below freezing until it is warm enough to use the upsaits fireplace.

With this current VC it is a complete wood hog. Maybe I am buring it wrong in some way. Chimeny is somewhat long as it exits below ground level (into block chimeny structure) and of course exits a few ft above roof level. Basement is fairly deep as it has finished 8'.5" ceiling so hence the longer chimney.

When I look into the tile it seems very consitent in the build up in it.

Prior to the custom chimeny cap being installed we did have a problem with down drafts on very windy days and a couple of times we had a drip of creasote from the pipe and was told we were burning the stove to cold? That cleared up witht he new cap. Now when I sweep the chimeny the draw is so good after I take the stove pipe off to pull the stuff out it suckes all the dust back in the pipe. Rooms does not get dusty etc.

 

[Marty]

Hey,
I to am a rookie but thought I'd say my peace... here is a grain of salt to go with it.

I think you are wondering if the soapstone will smooth out your heating curve and the answer is yes it will.

Any modern name brand stove that you like will probably make you happy but I think soapstone will do well for what you want out of it.

I burn a Mansfield going on a month now... my first stove... and I love it.

 

[struggle]

Here is how I store the wood.

(broken link removed to http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b148/struggle_/Picture134.jpg)

 

[cbrodsky]

hello Struggle,

Used to get around a cup of real dry ash when cleaning chimney, this year 1/2 to 3/4 cup.

I'd say similar for us as well - but I would guess chimney type is an issue.

Vintage 181 - what type of chimney are you running? We have a 6" class A in center of house - basically ideal.

I'm not so confident our results or yours would transfer to an 8" clay flue chimney which is why I raised the question.

-Colin

 

[cbrodsky]

I'LL REPLY In CAPS TO MAKE IT MORE VISIBLE - NOT SHOUTING

My concern is with getting a soapstone stove is how it will heat the whole house compared to what we currently have which is a Vigilant and the rear plate says safety tested 1980 on the back of the stove.

1. My concern is will say a Heritage Woodstove said to be able to heat 1,900 sq ft be able to heat better than the current stove.

I'D BE CAUTIOUS PUTTING MUCH STOCK IN ANY MANUFACTURER'S BTU OR SQUARE FOOTAGE SPEC - THE SF RATING VARIES SO MUCH WITH HOUSE AND CLIMATE THAT IT'S IMPOSSIBLE TO GENERALIZE. INSTEAD, I WOULD FOCUS ON HOW BIG A FIREBOX YOU WANT, AND KNOW THAT ANY OF THESE STOVES WILL GIVE YOU GREAT CONTROL OVER THE HEAT OUTPUT RATE SO YOU GET TO DECIDE HOW FAST AND HOT YOU BURN IT.

a. I just called the nearest dealerto me two mintues ago and they have one and are offering it a price of $2,199.... is that a good price? NOT SURE

2. What can I expect from a soapstone coming from a very hot burning VC. I do believe the VC needs to be resealed but all the panels and sides are free from warrping. ON REALLY COLD DAYS WHEN WE CAN FEED IT MORE OFTEN, WE RUN OURS AS HOT AS 600 DEGREE TOP SURFACE TEMPERATURE, BUT MOST OF THE YEAR WE RUN IT AROUND 350-500 AND CAN GO FOR 10-15 HOURS BETWEEN LOADS.

3. Instead of firing the VC at noon will I be able to keep the Soapy running from the previous night to maintain a constant temp in house.

WE LOAD AROUND 7AM WHEN WE GET UP, 7PM WHEN WE GET HOME, AND ABOUT 11PM WHEN WE GO TO SLEEP. ALWAYS HOT COALS AND STOVE TEMP GENERALLY STAYS ABOVE CATALYTIC RANGE THE ENTIRE TIME. IF YOU PUSH MUCH BEYOND 12 HOURS BETWEEN LOADS YOU WILL HAVE TO BRING THE TEMP BACK UP TO ENGAGE CATALYST OR SECONDARY BURN.

4. I currently sweep the chimney twice during the winter and get close to half a 5 gallon pale of cresoote out each time sometimes less. Will the soapstone burn much cleaner so less chimney buildup.

POSSIBLY - SEE OTHER THREADS. HOWEVER, NOT SURE YOUR CHIMNEY WILL BE QUITE AS CLEAN W/OUT LINER. IF YOU ARE DILLIGENT ABOUT KEEPING ABOVE SECONDARY BURN TEMPS OR USING A CATALYST, YOU WOULD LIKELY BURN ENOUGH OF THE CRESOTE FORMING VOLATILES TO BE FINE. BUT IF YOU DON'T, OR YOU USE BAD WOOD, YOU COULD GET INTO TROUBLE. OUTSIDE CHIMNEY?

5. Is the cat vs non cat one better than the other?

HEH HEH HEH... DO A SEARCH ON HEARTH.COM AND YOU WILL FIND MORE HEATED ARGUMENTS ON THIS THAN MOST ANY OTHER TOPIC. MAKES POLITICS LOOK MILD. BOTH HAVE VEHEMENT SUPPORTERS. I GAVE MY $0.02 ABOVE.

6. I currently do nothing to the present stove other than fill it up and light. What would be needed for maintanace for a soapstone.

FIL IT UP, LIGHT IT, AND A FEW MINUTES LATER YOU'LL WANT TO ADJUST THE AIR INTAKES/SWITCH ON CATALYST SO YOU DON'T OVERHEAT THINGS BUT YOU GET BEST EFFICIENCY.

7. Have a clay tiled 8" chimney. any problem with hooking up a 6" stove to that for chimeny performance.

COULD BE AN ISSUE... WILL DEFER TO OTHERS...

8. What are the ideal buring temps for a soapstone. Where to check temp? Our last guage took a dump from being to hot leaving it on the top of the stove I guess.

WOODSTOCKS ~300-600 SURFACE TEMP. PROBABLY SIMILAR FOR HEARTHSTONE?

9. Does one continuly add a peice of wood every couple of hours to a soapstone to keep it buring or let it burn almost completely out before adding wood.

NOPE - STUFF IT FULL ONCE AND LEAVE IT FOR UP TO 12 HOURS AND THEN RELOAD. THE LESS OPENING/CLOSING THE BETTER. IN THE EVENING, WE SOMETIMES RUN IT HOTTER FOR ABOUT 4 HOURS WHEN WE GET HOME, AND THEN TOP IT OFF AND SLOW IT DOWN BEFORE GOING TO SLEEP.

10. My wood is split and stored for two years prior to burning. If using a non cat sopastone can one add some scrap wood to heat it up for the main fire? I pretty much throw just about anything to atart the VC going with out any problem so far.

SHOULD BE GREAT WOOD! YOU CAN DO THAT WITH A CAT OR NON-CAT. WOULDN'T RECOMMEND PLASTIC COATED PAPER / TRASH IN EITHER STOVE.

11. What is everyones thought on the Heritage Woodstove? TIps ideas suggestions.

I looked online at the Fireveiw from woodstock and the only draw back to me right no that one is I have to orded it and the pipe exits the back where with my current set up my pipe goes straight up from the stove and then turns into the wall to the chimney.

NOT SURE WHERE YOU LIVE, BUT IT'S FUN TO VISIT THE FACTORY TO PICKUP W/TRUCK ALSO NO SALES TAX USUALLY OFFSETS SHIPPING.

YES, THE EXIT TYPE IS A LIMITATION. I THINK THE OTHER MODELS TOP EXIT; OTHERS COULD TELL YOU WHAT KIND OF BURN TIME THEY GET WITH THEM.

You're asking lots of good questions...

 

[Todd]

I have a similar setup to yours. My stove is in basement and replaced a steel stove. The soapstone doesn't blast us out like the steel one did, but sometimes I still open a window if I burn too hot. Soapstone is definitely a different heat. More even, less searing, and holds heat longer. I like it!

Which ever stove you choose will burn cleaner, longer and more efficient than your old one. I was leary about a cat stove at first, but found out it was the right decision for me. As long as your wood is dry and draft is good, you won't have a problem. Pick the one you like the looks of best, either will be better than your current one.

 

[suematteva]

hello Struggle,

Used to get around a cup of real dry ash when cleaning chimney, this year 1/2 to 3/4 cup.

I'd say similar for us as well - but I would guess chimney type is an issue.

Vintage 181 - what type of chimney are you running? We have a 6" class A in center of house - basically ideal.

I'm not so confident our results or yours would transfer to an 8" clay flue chimney which is why I raised the question.

-Colin

Basement: from stove e to ceiling 6" inch single wall, 6" to 7" adapter, then 7" class A pipe internal through main floor.

Struggle check your pm button, Earlier answered your list of questions like NY Soapstone did...

Hey Marty, How is that mansfield working out in your install??? remember that open two sided setup and am curious?

 

[Sandor]

Colin (NYSoapstone) and Todd gave a good reply and I agree with them 100%. Will try not to duplicate points, since both did a great job.

I have the Woodstock Keystone model, which may be vented from the top or the rear. It also has the ashpan, which was very important to me.

I have been burning wood for primary heat for over 20 years. After much FUD about Cat stoves, I took the chance on the Keystone and will never look back. My wood consumption is about 30 percent less with the cat stove.

There is a reason why all the reviews you read about Woodstock are A++.

While I have much experience with steel non-cat stoves, I have no experience with other non-cat Soapstone Stoves, so I cannot comment, except for maybe the heating characteristcs of soapstone.

My main complaint with steel stoves was the uneven nature of the heat. I found it nearly impossible to maintain a steady room temperature. The thermal mass of soapstone creates a thermal delay. I would never recommend a soapstone stove to a casual burner that wants heat asap.

I burn in Virginia, and the winter temps are not as extreme as northeastern/mountain west climates. Wintertime highs of 40 does not require alot a heat. (it does get much colder for weeks). The problem I had was burning low enough while not creating alot of creosote in the chimney; while not burning myself out of the house. Both scenarios waste wood and create problems.

The cat seemed like a perfect fit for me, because I can get a clean burn at relatively low stove temps. The absolute fact is that the catalytic combuster will ignite VOC's at about 500 degrees, while a non-cat stove cannot do that without firebox temps near 1000. Period. I DO NOT WANT TO START ANOTHER CAT DEBATE.

So to answer your question in a nutshell.....

Soapstone does even out the hot/cool burn cycles. A 700 degree hunk of steel or stone will produce a lot of heat.

Many great choices out there.

 

[DonCT]

So to answer your question in a nutshell.....

Soapstone does even out the hot/cool burn cycles. A 700 degree hunk of steel or stone will produce a lot of heat.

Many great choices out there.

Sandor hit it on the head. The big difference between a straight steel/iron stove and a soapstone stove is the heat curve. The heat curve on a soapstone is much gentler. I can get my Hearthstone Heritage up to 550 on the top, load her up, dampen down and run 7-8 hrs. easy. This is without baking out the room it's in. The living room will be 75-78, and the upstairs will be 72-74. Now, I can run smaller fires and drop the temps alittle, but the soapstone will still radiate "effective heat" for some time after the fire's out.

For example, this morning I lit up a fire when I got home at 4:30 a.m.. By 5:15 or so the stove top was up to 550. Living room temp was 74. I loaded up the stove with 3 average sized splits of maple, let 'em catch, then dampered down to 80%. When I got up at 2:30 p.m., there were still coals in the firebox and the stove was still around 250.

Soapstones aren't meant for quick heaters, to just take the chill off. They're better suited to 24/7 burning, as once you get the stone heated, it will stay heated for a while.

As for the cat/non-cat, I'm staying out. I think it's a personal preference. The secondary burn tubes on my Heritage work just fine for me, plus it's purty watching the flames dance on the top of the fire box :coolsmile:

Just my .04 (inflation )

 

[struggle]

Here is how I store the wood.

(broken link removed to http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b148/struggle_/Picture134.jpg)

Interesting. Do you remove wood from the bottom, or climb inside and take from the top??

Funny from the top :lol: There is actually on the other side a door opening where I can wheel it in and stack it to the point of about 7' then after that I just start throwing it on top of it. It is really great as this is at a freind house in the country and I get all the wood I could ever want then some more.

I kind of get all shakey when I see a tree down. Kind of like the deer in the headlights thing :roll:

 

[struggle]

OUr chimney is an outside one and I am quite sure since living here and talking to other people that this is contributing to the amount of build up in there.

I suppose the cat/non-cat is kind of the Ford/Chevy and the best Dodge Cummins equiped trucks

Thanks for all the input so far. Great info here and wished I had found it sooner. We are second owners of this house and if I were to build a house new I would have an inside chimney. If I think about it tomorrow I will post a pic. Of the current stove and of the upstairs fireplace.

I am really leaning toward the Heritage as I could get it this weekend. Woodstock was waiting for castings for other models than the fireveiw and the no ash pan and rear exit(although I think I have the hearth width for the rear exit).

I am almost tempted to get the Mansfield as we do really like to have a toasty house in the winter. Just wnat to keep the high heat flashes down from the cast stove.

This brings me to another question if one was to buy the Mansfield could one not just burn it a little tighter to help with the output or will it not hold its effeiceny if not used to the maximum. Which ever unti we get it will be used as a 24/7 unit.

Manisfield owners what is you sq. footage and same with Heritage owners. I know this is subjective as well but ball park ideas will be helpful.

 

[suematteva]

ours is in a ranch, roughly 30 x 65..1900 sq ft...well insulated..the stove is located about a fat 1/3 from one end, not central..near open stairwell and 1 register, the other end of the basement has a non heated garage, over garage is master bedroom..this room stays in the mid to high 60's depending on the outside temp..prefer this for sleeping..

We usually start burning October, end in May...this year went into June..

We make small fires for early and late seasons..like in the 50's to take the chill out...and not get cooked out..we always end up with the well below zero stuff for a couple weeks and we are glad that we went with the bigger unit...

We leave our wood in big splits at least 2 yrs old, for us it seems to even the heat out more and extend burn time...For the night time air shut down (below 20) we are around 40 to 50 percent. With a 3.2 ft firebox at night usually all i can fit in is 2-3 pieces.

 

[elkimmeg]

There is another pieces of the equasion, that some stoves have an aditional feature worth considering
you are concerned about the length of productive heat output ,right? There are some stoves equiped with thermoatically controled secondary
air controls. It works like this. It has a temperature sensing spring simmilar to stove top thermomenter It controls the secondary burn after dampering down
it opens and closed that airinlet adjusting the heat output, to an even usefull duration. IN turn this extends the usefull burn time and heat vollume unlike
just one opening setting. Soap stone may even out your heat range but so does this feature. I can not tell you it last longer, but it does make a cast Iron stove
compete longer, I have replaced my cat combustor with and off market one. The main feature of the off market one is it is capable of secondary light off when the
interior temps are only 380 degrees and keeps lighting off till the stove drops below 380 degrees. The common OEM converters need 500 degrees to light off.
This combustor increased my secondary burn cycle by 25% My stoves have this feature with the thermoatically controled seconday air within the secondary
Cat combustion chamber. Modern technology has modified it secondary burn chambers to function like the cat chambers and extended their burn times,
now equal the cats or possible edged ahead. Not all new stoves are engineered this way yet. More than one brand name company has this.

I also like one more convient feature smokeless top loading. It is easier to pack more wood in the firebox . (you have more control and access to do so)

 

[struggle]

I also like one more convient feature smokeless top loading. It is easier to pack more wood in the firebox

This feature is the way our current stov eis and it pulls a very good draft so no smoke comes out of it.

I did measure the VC compared to the Heritage and it is slightly bigger than the VC. This makes me happy to know the size is comparable to what we have now (even though apples and oranges). I really like the top load feature but have yet to see one in the soapstone version.

I really like the idea of a fixed aircontrol as with the VC I actually(gasp) put a small screw in the air damper door to hold it open just slightly so the fire would not smolder out when the temp would rise to fast. The auto control has never really worked good on this one so it seems for me ( It seems the one oyu are talking about is much more complex in that feature, what models?).

Ash pan would be nice which the h=Heritage has with side door loading.

 

[elkimmeg]

I have a rebuilt 1988 Cat Intrepid and a just purchased burnt 2 seasons 1999 cat encore($500) I have reburbished all gaskets


Technology did advance over you old VC the past 20 years. Other top loading stoves there is a leyden the Harman Oakwood and a Quad Island royal

beside the VC products VC now offers everburn technology in their dutch west line and a new non cat encore and defiant Similar to ETB.

The reason you secondary burn probably does not work well its age and fly ash. The sensor probe, it should be cleaned yearly. I clean my cat at the start
and mid season I also check the temp probe

Your secondary air compartment is probably filled with ash impeeding air pasage, that's why it does not work well it should cleaned like I do twice a year
Your older stove probably gets awayfrom you, because of leakage . all controls and air pasages are at your disposal. When was the last time you changed the damper gasket? or griddle gasket or any other on that stove? Recomended by VC is to change the griddle gasket every 4 years. Probably too much air lakage gets that stove that hot and if leakage you have limited control

It is possible with some gasketing and cleaning that stove could react very differently more controlable

 

[struggle]

The only things I have done to the stove was have someone make a peice for the warming shelf (was broken when I bought the house) and bought a darned expensive ceramic little handle so I could open the doors as the original one did not last long after I dropped it. I do not believe anything has been done in way of service to it.

I only have the install manual for it and nothing else. The rear of the stove has a plate that states it was saftey tested Sept. 25 1980. Would this be about the year this unit was made then or is there a better way to find that. House was built in 84.

I guess I would consider looking into servicning it if I knew where to start. I have also replaced one door gasket as it fell off. The other one might even be original?

I was looking over tonight and from all sides it looks very straight as for being deformed. It does really burn hot and the exit pipe is starting to turn white from being to hot.

On the other side of the coin I would really like to have a soapstone so one could see the fire. While this one has glass doors one can forget about seeing fire through tehm after the first day of burning with it.

Point to where I might find more on this stove? Griddle? I am not sure what you are talking about there as I have not taking anything apart on it.

 

[elkimmeg]

As dyaln said the test date for uL approval is 1980 the stove is probably 1884 vintage that would still have the 1980 test date

If that were my stove Everything would have new gaskets The griddle is another name to top plate loader

amny dealers sell gasket packages just for that stove with gasket cement if you gaskets are falling off sticking and old use hard gasket back on is next to useless If falling off That's a hint It needs replacing.

the mid 80 VC stoves were some of the best crafted stoves.

Hey if bent on buying a new soap stone and you have the money for it go for it ,but please let someone like me of Cori have the Viligant we will redo it and give it to a familly of need. Also willing to bet Dylan would have na interest.
tthat stove if properly maintained could and should have many more usefull years. Even if you paid up to $300 to have it serviced, that's a hell of a lot cheaper than the $3000 soapstones.

The choice is yours did you also know that optional glass doors were made for that stove and possibly could be purchased, again a lot cheaper than new soap stone
That stove also has the option fire screen where the doors are swung open anfd you can enjoy the full fire view like any fireplace it would produce some heat,
but much would go up the chimney many evenings that would be all that is needed.

I'm just presenting some options for you to consider and making you aware of others you did not know about. I can provide a picture of what the open screen look is like
There are a lot of good features that stove has The open fire view is one. IS it better than a new soap stone, no