Mahindra 4540
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I am torn between a Skidsteer and a tractor....would love to have both...but can't afford both.Either way it would be hauled to logged out woods and used to load my dump trailer and trucks up...the tractor appeals to me for many reasons....its more stable...I can drag with it...ect...just not as fast or nimble but very bit as capable...decisions...lol
What kind of wood is in the grapple? The deep bark almost looks like Sassafras.
when you compare equal price cut vs skidsteer the tractor is way more usefull, ssts are way more expensive so you would only be able to get a small one. and they get stuck everywhere only a couple inches under it. tractor is way faster and you can run three point implements off the back better balance. my tractor is about 1500 lbs base weight no loader, loaders are 1000 average, brush mowers are about 1000, finish a bit less. easily hauled with my half ton with the right trailer
heavy hammer
Minister of Fire
Sodbuster that is black locust, a buddy I work with his father has a large locust grove near his farm that he keeps having large trees removed. Neither one of them want the wood so I make out. I agree with jwfirebird unless on a construction site I think a tractor has many more benefit. Implements are not as expensive easier on the terrain. Much easier to work on. Just my thoughts.
heavy hammer
Minister of Fire
No my grapple and box scraper are from everything attachments. My 6 foot finish mower is from mahindra.
heavy hammer
Minister of Fire
I am envisioning a Mahindra with a log grapple and and a skidding/logging winch on the back...still have homework to do..
take a look at ls and new holland, they are all about the stuff and size, but they have more standard stuff that people dont talk about. power isnt the only thing. loaders with bigger or more hydraulics, bigger attachment support brackets, alot of stuff like that. at least that was the case around here, we are a rural area and there are a ton of tractor dealers, but no mahindra. there was one a few years ago but it went out of buisiness, thats the primary reason i bought mine was things break and you need to get parts
I haven't started the 4540 in three or four days so tomorrow we'll start it up and then maybe get some junk wood for an outside fire.
We've had the battery tender on it so it should start.
We've had the battery tender on it so it should start.
heavy hammer
Minister of Fire
You should not have any issues with it. Once you get it fired up just let it run. When it gets real cold I let the tractor and trucks run f I'm using them. My older truck I used to have a extra key so I could lock the doors and keep it running when out doing errands. Easier to burn a little diesel then replace batteries and starters. My 96 dodge finally broke down for good front axel, Bering housing and a few other parts in the front end broke the other day. My brother is parting it out the cost to fix was to much 2k plus. 379k plus had it for 19 years. A little of a bummer, but at least I have another truck.
certainly wouldn't be parting it out for axle, those are very common got be used ones in the yard for few hundred at most.
heavy hammer
Minister of Fire
It was more than just the front axel. The Bering housing broke as well along with other damage to the front passenger side. Three mechanics including my brother who is one all quoted me at about 2k to fix. The truck was in pretty bad shape driver door needed replaced since it didn't shut. The bed was about to fall off etc. it was a great beater but now that my commute from work increased from 11 miles to over 40, and it was sketchy to drive on the freeway. Believe me it was hard I had the truck since I was 18 and bought it with 72k on it. But I believe it was time. The motor is being put into a tow truck, a buddy of my brothers. The rest I don't know.
most mechanics tell people 1k for half tons, 1500 to 2 Heard this all the time) with solid axle. really aggregating to me, people dont have that to put into a beater. they just tell people that to run up the bill, its the cost of every part that you can buy in an axle
the reality is you can get a decent whole axle and swap it yourself for 50 or so for the cheap half tons, dodges have the most expensive parts, maybe 2-300 for a one ton, swap the whole thing and use your brakes and stuff, change the outer seals and bearings. 30 for chev and 50 or 75 for dodge, and get another 50k if you get a low milage one theres nothing in there that needs changed
the reality is you can get a decent whole axle and swap it yourself for 50 or so for the cheap half tons, dodges have the most expensive parts, maybe 2-300 for a one ton, swap the whole thing and use your brakes and stuff, change the outer seals and bearings. 30 for chev and 50 or 75 for dodge, and get another 50k if you get a low milage one theres nothing in there that needs changed
We have one rack that will be opening up by later tomorrow so we put in two smaller loads of firewood today.
After putting in the wood, I took off the battery maintainer and then started the tractor. After letting the 4540 warmup for 15 minutes, I packed down the snow on top of the ice on our driveway and then did our neighbors driveway, the tractor hit 350 hours today.
We have another 6-7 inches of snow (just received 4-5 on Sunday) starting late tomorrow night so we'll get the sleds off the trailer....again.
After putting in the wood, I took off the battery maintainer and then started the tractor. After letting the 4540 warmup for 15 minutes, I packed down the snow on top of the ice on our driveway and then did our neighbors driveway, the tractor hit 350 hours today.
We have another 6-7 inches of snow (just received 4-5 on Sunday) starting late tomorrow night so we'll get the sleds off the trailer....again.
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heavy hammer
Minister of Fire
That is what I was hoping for but even my mechanic brother didn't think it was worth fixing. He has been keeping it alive for awhile now, he just thought it was time to let it go. Like I said it was just not the axel she had a lot of issues, I had just been limping it along.
it makes me sad when i hear mechanics take advantage of people, its tough keeping any older vehicle going cost effectively if you dont do the stuff yourself. most mechanics just add a ton of money because they are gready and want a huge sop and all the best tools. which you dont need for 90 percent of jobs. i have one mechanic i know around out of hundreds near me that i send people to that doesnt gouge and lie and trump up work. ypour best bet is never a dealer or comercial place, just a smaller independent thats been around a while
heavy hammer
Minister of Fire
really why i do everything myself, im not a mechanic by any means, just years of being cheap. ive done all my own work on my cars(with a couple hundred in tools), and have relatively new drivers for my wife and i. they are not really any more complicated, just getting getting to what you want is the trick. but most everything you do has been done and has a you tube vid. scanner cost me 35, you need one that talks to newer cars, its torque pro on android a bluetooth converter, the newer the car the more they tell you about whats wrong.
ur right about the cost though, the w-body gm cars are 20 lbs of crap in a 5lb bag, but once you learn the tricks to tilt the engine, its as easy as any other. its all i buy, i put 20 to 50k a year and these are the only ones you can reliably put 300k on cost effectively, the wife does about 20 yearly and drives like john force, she always has had h-body like bonnivilles and lucernes. they do good against her beating. the rack on my current monte is leaking, its 1k job everywhere because you have to lift the car and drop the engine down in the back before you can even see any of the ps lines or bolts. i just take my time and work a few hours here and there. its tough fitting my gut under it, but i you can change the lines pump and rack for 300 even if you get the lifetime stuff. the job if i had them do all that would be 1500. got to go work on it now actually should finish it today, and save 1200
ur right about the cost though, the w-body gm cars are 20 lbs of crap in a 5lb bag, but once you learn the tricks to tilt the engine, its as easy as any other. its all i buy, i put 20 to 50k a year and these are the only ones you can reliably put 300k on cost effectively, the wife does about 20 yearly and drives like john force, she always has had h-body like bonnivilles and lucernes. they do good against her beating. the rack on my current monte is leaking, its 1k job everywhere because you have to lift the car and drop the engine down in the back before you can even see any of the ps lines or bolts. i just take my time and work a few hours here and there. its tough fitting my gut under it, but i you can change the lines pump and rack for 300 even if you get the lifetime stuff. the job if i had them do all that would be 1500. got to go work on it now actually should finish it today, and save 1200
We've been clearing an area on the north side of the house for a 28 x 36 garage, today I spent most of the day limbing and moving branches and some pine logs for firewood.
The contractor wants to start at the end of April, hopefully the spring weather starts tomorrow.
The contractor wants to start at the end of April, hopefully the spring weather starts tomorrow.
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heavy hammer
Minister of Fire
Looks like fun, I have about 5 ash trees to take down, but as u said this cold wet weather needs to go. This winter was rough to get any tractor projects done. It never really froze here enough to not trash the yard with the tractor so I have been waiting for spring. Keep updates on the garage.
Will do @heavy hammer , the frost hasn't left yet so we need some rain with warmer weather so I can start digging out some stumps. I can push a screwdriver in the ground about an inch before you hit frost.
same problem here, nice to have the rhino years like this. made some ruts in the yard,
but they normally roll out pretty easy
but they normally roll out pretty easy
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