Mama Bear door question

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Big8

New Member
Aug 19, 2017
3
North Carolina
I recently acquired a really nice Mama Bear from my brother . I didn't notice until after installing it that the door handle/latch seems to me like it is upside down . When closing the door , the handle has to be turned clockwise from the 6 oclock position to about the 7 oclock position to latch the door . Inside the door frame is a piece of steel on an angle to accept the door latch and draw the door tight to the frame . It works fine and the door latches tight but it just seems backward to me to be pulling up on the handle to latch the door . Also , other than just the friction of the latch against the angled piece on the inside , the handle could possibly fall back to the 6 oclock position and the door come open . I cant find any info on a door latch like this and any YouTube videos of Mama Bears have the handle turning counter clockwise and latching at about the 10 oclock position . Has anybody ever seen a Mama Bear like this ? Thanks
 
Has anybody ever seen a Mama Bear like this ? Thanks
No , usually clockwise to open [ up ] and counter clockwise to shut [ down ] direction. For the single square door models. Cathedral doors are different , they are latch up , pull back and down to open to clear out smoke out of firebox , before it rolls out into the room .
 
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A right hand hinged door will lift clockwise to open, and a left hand hinged door will lift counter clockwise to open.
They always use gravity to keep latch closed.
We need pictures of the door latched and open to identify model and latch issue.
Yes, a door latch should tighten at about the 10 o'clock position on a right hand door and 2 o'clock on a left hand door.

I can give you the specs of the correct size of door wedge (ramp that pulls latch rod tight) and the correct position where it should be welded to door frame when I know what Mama Bear model you have. I and II with flat top door will be different than VI with arched top door.

For your door to latch the opposite direction, I'm guessing the latch wedge must be welded upside down.
The wedge should be thin at the top, getting thicker at the bottom.
 
A right hand hinged door will lift clockwise to open, and a left hand hinged door will lift counter clockwise to open.
They always use gravity to keep latch closed.
We need pictures of the door latched and open to identify model and latch issue.
Yes, a door latch should tighten at about the 10 o'clock position on a right hand door and 2 o'clock on a left hand door.

I can give you the specs of the correct size of door wedge (ramp that pulls latch rod tight) and the correct position where it should be welded to door frame when I know what Mama Bear model you have. I and II with flat top door will be different than VI with arched top door.

For your door to latch the opposite direction, I'm guessing the latch wedge must be welded upside down.
The wedge should be thin at the top, getting thicker at the bottom.
I got my door thing figured out . My brother had been latching it wrong the whole time he used it . Its working correctly now . Now I have another question . Is the stovepipe going into the back of stove supposed to go inside the ring on the back or outside/over the ring ? I got a 6 inch stovepipe but I cant make it work either way . The crimped end wont go in it or the straight end wont go over it . Help Please !
 
Without pictures we still don't know what you have, and that changes the pipe size they were built with. You're describing an older stove with 6 inch OD pipe. Later models used 6 inch ID.
If vent pipe measures 6 inches OUTSIDE; Over-crimp the crimped end with crimping pliers if you need it inside. There are many threads addressing this issue since all older stoves used the smaller pipe before it was made with the larger ID size to fit stove pipe.

If you can connect with a Tee and cap the bottom, the female side of the Tee fits over the vent pipe very well.
The installation and connector pipe configuration determines how it must be connected. You can't put an elbow OVER the vent pipe since condensate will drip from the joint. If this is a straight up configuration into a chimney support box, use the Tee. If straight pipe is going into stove, an upward pitch must be maintained and inserted INTO the vent pipe of the stove so any condensed liquid from combustion vapors drips into the stove to be consumed.
 
Without pictures we still don't know what you have, and that changes the pipe size they were built with. You're describing an older stove with 6 inch OD pipe. Later models used 6 inch ID.
If vent pipe measures 6 inches OUTSIDE; Over-crimp the crimped end with crimping pliers if you need it inside. There are many threads addressing this issue since all older stoves used the smaller pipe before it was made with the larger ID size to fit stove pipe.

If you can connect with a Tee and cap the bottom, the female side of the Tee fits over the vent pipe very well.
The installation and connector pipe configuration determines how it must be connected. You can't put an elbow OVER the vent pipe since condensate will drip from the joint. If this is a straight up configuration into a chimney support box, use the Tee. If straight pipe is going into stove, an upward pitch must be maintained and inserted INTO the vent pipe of the stove so any condensed liquid from combustion vapors drips into the stove to be consumed.
All I can find is 24 gauge stovepipe . Can it be crimped smaller or do I need to look for something else ?
 
If vent pipe measures 6 inches OUTSIDE; Over-crimp the crimped end with crimping pliers if you need it inside.

"Vent pipe"
is the part on the stove the connector pipe connects to.

Use the search feature at the top right of page and search the word "crimper" posted by myself, coaly in this Forum for many results on the subject.