I have a wood stove that is in the corner of my family room. I have no literature on the wood stove but the back says the side and back walls need to be at least 36 inches away. I plan on putting up a heat shield against the back corner but....I'm not sure how to measure the minimum distance I need to make the heat shield extend out on either side. So my question is do I ONLY measure from the corner to the nearest point of the wall or do I measure 36 inches starting from each corner and seeing how far down the wall I can touch? If it is the latter then it extend to the middle of a french door? Also, when I'm measuring from the side do I measure perpendicular to the side of the wood stove to see if it is 36 inches from the wall?
Measuring minimum distance from wood stove to walls
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Corner clearances are measured at right angles to the wall to the nearest point of the stove usually. But it may vary depending on the stove model due to flue location and heat shielding. Here's a shot from the Jotul F500 manual showing how they measure it with the heat shield.
Note, for piece of mind it doesn't hurt to add a couple inches to the minimum dimension requirements
Note, for piece of mind it doesn't hurt to add a couple inches to the minimum dimension requirements
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BeGreen said:
Ok, my problem is that at that point it will be covered by a heat shield. But if you have a 36 inch stick and touch one end to the back corner of the woodstove you could touch the wall. I can only build the heat shield up to the point of a door jam that is in the room. Also, I wasn't able to get what ever manual you said you had?
It would help if I posted the picture I guess. Sorry about that, I went back and added it to the posting. If you could post a picture of the stove and the intended stove location that would be a big help in visualizing any issues and possible solutions.
36" seems like a lot...
my corner stove need to be 12 inches from the corners to the unprotected wall??
my corner stove need to be 12 inches from the corners to the unprotected wall??
While looking at the wood stove, the left side obviously doesn't meet the 36 inch minimum. More like 19 inches. I plan on putting a heat shield to the door jam but the distance from the corner to the door jam is still only 21 inches at the most. If I extend the heat shield to the door jam it goes to the french door. They are made of wood on the frame but there is a plastic strip that holds the window in place. Not sure how extreme I need to be. When I moved in I had a fire wall that didn't even extend to the door jam and they worked ok for several years. I'm just concerned with keeping it in code so I can sell it some day.
Ok, that did the trick. Ok, I can't move the whole wood stove so it will be 36 inches, and I can only put a heat barrier to the door which is about 21 inches. The other side I can go as far as I need to. I don't know if the French door would be considered combustable? I still can't believe it needs to be 36 inches away.
Ok, that did the trick. Ok, I can't move the whole wood stove so it will be 36 inches, and I can only put a heat barrier to the door which is about 21 inches. The other side I can go as far as I need to. I don't know if the French door would be considered combustable? I still can't believe it needs to be 36 inches away.
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trailblaze said:
Actually, it doesn't say anything about corners. It sucks that I have no manual on it. On the back of the wood stove it just says 18 inches in front, 36 inches on the sides and back? I agree, it is a ridiculously large distance.
The image needs to be downsized. Here's a link for resizing pictures. If that doesn't work, send it to me in a PM and I can resize it for you.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewannounce/27_2/
If you install a wall shield that will halve your clearances, so I think this is the way to go, but will have to see your setup first to make sure there aren't complications.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewannounce/27_2/
If you install a wall shield that will halve your clearances, so I think this is the way to go, but will have to see your setup first to make sure there aren't complications.
Looks like maybe the spacers are still sticking out of the wall surface where the heat shield used to be mounted. That shield, with its ventilated airspace behind was a clearance reduction system which allowed the stove corners to be closer to the combustible surfaces than the basic 36". Depending upon how it was constructed and installed, it may have reduced the required clearance by up to 66%. Why did you remove the heat shield? Rick
Rick's called it right. Don't burn the stove without restoring the heat shield. It needs to be incombustible and can be made out of sheetmetal or cement board.
i'd have to say build a non-combustable wall with a nice 2-3 inch air space over all the corners then throw some some Durock and a tile/ stone decor': and i would think you'd be set...
although, what do i know... i don't even have a wood burner yet...ahah
although, what do i know... i don't even have a wood burner yet...ahah
fossil said:
I removed the previous heat shield as it was very ugly and broken. I assumed it was done right, but the guy who built the house did not believe in following codes. The front of the wood stove is supposed to be 18 inches and he doesn't even have 15 inches in front. I actually was going to use Durock and then Cultured Stone on top of that. I left the spacers on the walls on purpose, although I was hoping that I wouldn't need to use them as I would prefer to set the a cement board flush to the wall. I guess that isn't the safe way to go. Thanks for every ones help!
D-Nic said:
It's the ventilated airspace between the shield and the wall that buys you the vast majority of your clearance reduction. Build something that pleases you, but use the spacers, and don't slam the thing down against the floor...the whole idea is to allow airflow (natural convection) to carry the heat from the stove up and away. Rick
Here's a link to USG's guide for installing a durock backerboard wall shield:
(broken link removed to http://tinyurl.com/nmmt3)
(broken link removed to http://tinyurl.com/nmmt3)
Hey D-Nic,
Here's another angle on your situation: the stove in your photo is an outdated, non-EPA approved smoke dragon that would be illegal to install in most code jurisdictions today. If typical, it burns 30% more fuel, creates 90% more creosote, and belches up to 20 times the particulate emissions into the airshed as a new EPA approved model. Why not do yourself and the planet a big favor and replace it with a new, clean-burning model?
Your immediate advantages:
Today's stoves are factory shielded and require no wall shielding: you get to leave those beautifull backwalls exposed.
EPA approved stoves burn 30% to 50% less fuel than this old monster. Less time and money spent working the woodpile.
A new stove will create about 10% of the creosote formation in the chimney as this old smolder pot. Improved safety, less time spent cleaning the chimney.
Stove design has come a long way: you could easily replace this ugly old beastie with a much better-looking stove.
Here's another angle on your situation: the stove in your photo is an outdated, non-EPA approved smoke dragon that would be illegal to install in most code jurisdictions today. If typical, it burns 30% more fuel, creates 90% more creosote, and belches up to 20 times the particulate emissions into the airshed as a new EPA approved model. Why not do yourself and the planet a big favor and replace it with a new, clean-burning model?
Your immediate advantages:
Today's stoves are factory shielded and require no wall shielding: you get to leave those beautifull backwalls exposed.
EPA approved stoves burn 30% to 50% less fuel than this old monster. Less time and money spent working the woodpile.
A new stove will create about 10% of the creosote formation in the chimney as this old smolder pot. Improved safety, less time spent cleaning the chimney.
Stove design has come a long way: you could easily replace this ugly old beastie with a much better-looking stove.
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